Isan all the way: The som tum chef at Somtum Der prepares the sweet-sour-spicy green papaya salad. The salad is hardly the most obvious choice for a signature dish. The fiery flavors launch a full-on assault on your palate, no matter how much the chilies are toned down. It’s not a recipe for faint hearts or sensitive palates. (Robbie Swinnerton @tokyofoodfile photo)
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Alo Japan.