Japan Van Life Ch 41: Daruma-dera: Kyoto’s most unique temple with a dark history.
Do you know the origins of Japan’s iconic lucky charm? You might recognise these round dolls from Japanese pop culture like the Studio Ghibli movie Spirited Away, but daruma dolls are common-place good luck talismans in Japan. These round, hollow, traditional Japanese dolls date back to the 17th century, when a farmer in Takasaki, Gunma created the first paper mache dolls during the off-season. Nowadays you will find daruma everywhere, and they’re commonly bought by foreigners in Japan as souvenirs, but the true history of the beady-eyed daruma doll goes back much further and is much more morbid..
Today we’re heading to Horin-ji Daruma Doll Temple, where you’ll find over 8000 (EIGHT THOUSAND!) unique red dolls ranging from the size of a fingernail to great towering human-sized daruma to delve a little deeper into their history. The dolls at this funny Kyoto temple have been donated from all around Japan since 1945 and some are so rare that you won’t find them anywhere else!
Despite their dark past, daruma have become an important part of Japanese culture and are now an iconic lucky mascot. Here’s what to do if you want to buy one of these little round red men for yourself.
How to make a wish with a daruma doll:
1. Make your wish
2. Fill in the pupil of the daruma’s left eye
3. Put the daruma in a high place in your home and wait!
4. When you wish is fulfilled, draw in the remaining eye
5. Return the daruma to a temple
If you’re curious to know the grim story behind why you fill in daruma eyes, you’ll need to watch to find out! 👀
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📍 LOCATION:
Hōrin-ji (Daruma-dera) in Kyoto｜法輪寺（達磨寺）
By bus: from Kyoto Station take the Kyoto City Bus Route 205 to Nishinokyo Enmachi Bus Stop and walk for 3 minutes
By train: from Kyoto Station take the JR Sanin Main Line (Sagano Line) to Enmachi Station and walk for 6 minutes
Planning a trip to Japan and want to visit more off-the-beaten track locations?
Why not purchase a Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) for discounted travel anywhere in Japan:
(Please note that the above link is an affiliate link. If you make a purchase through the link, we earn a little commission at no extra cost to you!)
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MORE UNIQUE JAPANESE TEMPLES:
Senkoji Buddhist Temple (Osaka’s Hell Temple)
Chogosonshi-ji Tiger Temple, Nara
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