As seen with Japan’s restaurant industry, the pandemic has added a level of risk to daily habits, transforming cafe culture. But as anthropologist Merry White writes in “Coffee Life in Japan,” change as a concept is nothing new, and cafes have “witnessed innovation, subversion and transgression in old and new urban cultures, politics and individual lives.” By the numbers, the recent shift for coffee in Japan at large is from in-store to home consumption. Key Coffee, a major coffee bean distributor based in Tokyo, recently reported a more than 30% increase in sales for home products. But the state of the nation’s cafes, from historically oriented kissaten and innovative third-wave shops, is more nuanced. Read the story with the link in our bio. 📸 Tommaso Barbetta
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Alo Japan.