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Culinary treasure troves packed with local ingredients.
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A uniquely Japanese food culture that’s a delight for the eyes as well as the palate…
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Ekiben are typically purchased at train stations and enjoyed during train journeys.
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Let’s explore Japan with…
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Today, we’re exploring a brand-new ekiben in the south of Japan.
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We arrive in Naha, the capital of Okinawa in the south of Japan,
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home to more than three hundred thousand people.
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The climate is warm year-round,
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with temperatures hovering around 23 degrees Celsius.
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As one of Japan’s leading resort destinations,
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Okinawa attracts visitors from Japan and abroad.
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To find our ekiben, we board Okinawa’s only railway…
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It opened in 2003, and it’s become an essential part of daily life for local residents.
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The ekiben is sold right outside the ticket gate of Oroku Station.
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Here, we purchase our bento.
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Let’s enjoy it in a spot looking out at Okinawa’s sea.
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Inside the bento, there’s an assortment of side dishes,
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from braised pork to pickled daikon radish.
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A delicious collection of the region’s healthy meat and vegetable cuisine.
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The most well-known is the “goya chanpuru,”
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made by stir-frying bitter gourd and tofu.
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What first stands out is the gentle bitterness of the gourd,
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which is then softened by the egg and tofu.
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The more you chew, the more the flavor unfolds.
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It’s bitter and yet keeps you coming back for more.
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How is this distinctive flavor created?
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The ekiben is made at a bento shop near the station.
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Inside the kitchen, workers are busy preparing the bento boxes.
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The owner, Kido Shinichiro, started the bento shop 18 years ago.
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He and his wife Rika have been bringing vibrant flavors to Okinawa’s locals.
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But it was only two years ago that the couple started selling ekiben at the station.
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There’s no ekiben culture in Okinawa, so I thought it’d be interesting to give it a try.
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Selling a bento inside a monorail station was something new in Okinawa.
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By selling it at a place where many people pass through,
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they hoped to share the appeal of Okinawa more widely.
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What’s more, this ekiben is packed with thoughtful considerations.
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We want to provide a healthy ekiben that we would feel confident giving to our children.
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Also, we’re committed to using Okinawa-produced ingredients and supporting community consumption.
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The ekiben is made with local ingredients and designed with health in mind.
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The first thing they prepare is the bitter gourd, known as “goya.”
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The inner pulp is removed from the bitter gourd which is then sliced into thin pieces.
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It’s quite bitter, so we add salt to the slices, then massage and rinse them.
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The gourd’s bitterness is softened by rubbing salt in and mellowing the harshness.
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The ekiben is for all kinds of people, including those from the mainland.
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Bitter gourd is bitter no matter what you do to it.
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People may enjoy the bitterness, but we make sure it’s not too much.
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The processed bitter gourd is then stir-fried with ham and tofu.
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Finally, egg is added, and Okinawa’s most iconic dish, “goya chanpuru,” is complete.
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We went to visit a farmer who grows bitter gourd, beloved by Okinawans.
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This is Tamashiro Riki.
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He’s been growing bitter gourd for five years.
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My father is a farmer and I had access to farmland.
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After working for a company for about 10 years, I thought I’d try farming myself.
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He inherited the farmland from his father, who also grows bitter gourd.
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It’s said that Okinawa has long been ideal for bitter gourd cultivation.
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Bitter gourd likes warm weather. 25 to 35 degrees is ideal.
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Okinawa’s summers are around that range.
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Bitter gourd thrives in hot climates.
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And, it actually contains a nutrient essential for staying healthy in warm regions.
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It’s rich in vitamin C, so it should help prevent summer fatigue.
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A vegetable that helps Okinawans through the summer.
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Bitter gourd is believed to have been introduced to Okinawa from China in the 15th century.
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It’s even said in an old dietary medicine text that bitter gourd
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helps remove heat and fatigue from the body.
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“It removes heat and fatigue from the body. It can be eaten every day during summer.”
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One important task in growing bitter gourd is pollination.
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The orange in the middle of the yellow flower is the pollen.
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You touch it to the tip of the female flower.
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Pollination is done entirely by hand.
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By pollinating only the healthiest flowers,
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he ensures that large, straight bitter gourds are produced.
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There are many flowers, so it’s time-consuming work.
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These carefully grown bitter gourds are one of Okinawa’s prized blessings.
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Next, adding a vibrant touch of color to the bento
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is the eye-catching purple mashed “beni-imo.”
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“Beni-imo,” a type of sweet potato,
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is another iconic Okinawan crop alongside bitter gourd.
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When you peel its skin, the deep purple is revealed.
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“Beni-imo” is rich in fiber compared to other types of potatoes.
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They’re sliced thinly to create a smooth texture.
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The purple is from a polyphenol called anthocyanin, which is in blueberries and grapes too.
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The anthocyanin in “beni-imo” is believed to support liver health.
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Kido’s commitment to healthy ingredients comes from his own personal experience.
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When I worked in transportation, I ate a lot of bento stuffed with fried foods.
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Because of that, I started having health problems and gained weight.
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That experience taught him how precious good health can be.
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Okinawa’s vegetables have become the way he expresses this lesson.
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Kido has an advisor when it comes to Okinawan produce.
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Tsuda Yusuke, a vegetable wholesaler.
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He started this work with a desire to spread awareness of the value of Okinawa’s crops.
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On this day, he’s at the market procuring vegetables.
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It looks like there are more bitter gourds now. Supply was low for a while.
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It was raining a lot because of the typhoon. The weather can change so quickly.
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Okinawa has a subtropical climate.
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While the warm temperature allows a wide variety of vegetables to be grown,
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each year, the islands must endure multiple typhoons and heavy rain.
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The extreme weather makes maintaining a stable supply of Okinawa’s vegetables difficult.
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The farmers and others in the primary industry put in so much effort.
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We want to help communicate their dedication.
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Tsuda is the person who recommends seasonal vegetables to the bento shop.
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He supplies a variety of Okinawan produce and suggests how they can be used.
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Tsuda suggests different vegetables which we then incorporate into bentos.
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When there’s more ways to eat them, consumption goes up,
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and producers can grow more because they know they can sell more.
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It’s a win-win-win-win.
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What emerges from this cooperation is a cycle that connects consumers and producers.
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There’s somebody helping to expand that cycle even further.
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His name is Kishimoto Keiichi,
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and he’s a 66-year-old employee at the bento shop.
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His job is mobile sales by motorcycle.
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Each day, he visits about 20 locations carrying bento boxes and going door to door.
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It’s fun chatting with him. He’s like sunshine!
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His personality helps him build strong relationships with regular customers.
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But he doesn’t sell only to familiar faces.
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Anybody interested in a bento?
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Wanting more people to enjoy a healthy bento,
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he sometimes approaches new customers directly.
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As you can see, it’s packed full with the best of Okinawan cuisine.
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Just try it first. You’ll love it.
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Wonderful! I was hungry, too.
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Trust me, you won’t regret it!
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If I tell customers about the bento, most people want to try it,
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so I think it gets across.
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They understand that it’s handmade and carefully prepared with time and effort.
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I put a lot of love and care into selling this bento.
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Kishimoto’s passion for the ekiben.
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That passion continues to create more and more fans.
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An Okinawan ekiben, carefully made and delivered one by one…
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carrying the hopes and efforts of many.
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A new ekiben culture is now taking root in Okinawa.

AloJapan.com