The silver season arrives
The end of the calendar year sees such seasonal highlights as wide-spread winter illuminations, the start of the ski season and often the first snowfall. Weather ranges from autumnal cool to proper winter cold. Japan’s oshogatsu holiday season comes at the end of the month with Christmas being more of a token event. Crisp, clear winter skies make mountain vistas pop against azure backgrounds with everything seeming that little bit extra special at year’s end.
Early season skiing is possible from mid to late December at some resorts
The new year’s period is a busy and expensive time to travel with some businesses closing for a few days
The Oshogatsu holiday period typically runs from December 29 to January 3 depending on how the days fall
Many shrines hold New Year’s Eve events on December 31
Snow-capped Mt. Fuji seen from Lake Ashinoko
Turn of the season, turn of the year
Originally a Western import, Christmas is celebrated in Japan, but is much different than the family-oriented holiday in English speaking countries. Decorations are everywhere but few presents are exchanged. Christmas turkey is unheard of, with a Yuletide trip to KFC being the preferred practice. Couples go out for romantic dinners rather than spending time with family. Glitzy urban areas in the city center like Ginza and the Marunouchi area around Tokyo Station 
are prime spots for fancy dinners and festive lights.
The chic, sophisticated Marunouchi district
New Year’s Eve and the first few days of the new year are the more important holiday for Japanese. While most visitors don’t get to experience it in a family setting, you can visit shrines to see the new year in like a local. Many hold events and prepare warm sake, toshikoshi soba (buckwheat noodles), and pork soup for visitors.
Lighting up the night
As with fireworks, Japan excels at making lavish light displays in the wintertime. Many start in mid-November and continue through the winter adding a certain frisson to chilly city nights.
You’ll find major displays all over Tokyo and, if you have time, you can even take the Yamanote Line around the city to see a few of them. A short walk from Shimbashi Station, visitors can see the Caretta Illumination. The Midtown Christmas event near Roppongi Station has a shorter run, until December 25.
One of the light displays at the Kobe Luminarie
Ringing in the ski season
Most popular ski resorts are up and running by mid- to late December. When snowfall is scarce early in the season, resorts use artificial snow to compensate. Hokkaido’s big resorts may open as early as the end of November.
Two birds, one stone
Many of Japan’s ski resorts double as hot spring resorts, or at least have a selection of onsen bathing spots nearby. Worth a visit for the baths in their own right, they offer pleasurable post-ski relaxation or a viable alternative to skiing and snowboarding.
Nozawa Onsen seen from the slopes
December events
The Nankinmachi Lantern Festival is a colorful affair
One of the more unusual and distinctive festivals is the Namahage event held on New Year’s Eve in Oga City, Akita Prefecture . Performers dressed as namahage (a visiting deity who purges bad luck and brings good fortune) dance and glower to the delight of crowds. More customary New Year’s Eve celebrations and parties can be found at bars and clubs in the big cities.
A namahage in action
AloJapan.com