The opening marks the first stateside stint for Tadayoshi Motoa, the well-traveled sushi chef behind Spain’s one-Michelin-starred Toki. His sleek new namesake counter inside the historic Federal-American National Bank building centers around a 20-course tasting menu ($200), with two seatings each night (6 p.m., 8:30 p.m.).
Motoa kicks off the meal with a compartmentalized platter of sashimi, shiokara, karaage, and chawanmushi, followed by six coursed pieces of nigiri, each finished with a paintbrush stroke of his house-made soy before handed over the counter. Think squid (cuttlefish), lean tuna, marinated trout, scallop, and namerou (Japanese-style fish tartar). From there, warm tempura and a cup of dashi swimming with seasonal ingredients are followed by a parade of more nigiri like uni, marinated akami, and o-toro. A gelatinous, wobbling dessert made of barley tea makes for a refreshing finale.
His two distinct shari (sushi rice) recipes — one traditional, seasoned with classic vinegar to reflect the ancient Edomae lineage, and one modern vinegar variety — speak to his globe-trotting culinary career. At just 44, he’s already worked in seven wildly different regions around the world (Madrid, London, Milan, Copenhagen, Dubai, Osaka, and Jakarta). Ironically, the Japanese chef has never cooked in his home country — or with its famed fish — until now, which means he draws influence from Mediterranean preparations he got to know well. Expertly sheared slices of pickled cucumber sub in for wasabi.
Some centuries-old Japanese elements hold up, however. He tells the story of his coastal hometown near Tokyo with a simple clam soup — an homage to the one his ancestors made with bivalves gathered from the scenic shoreline.
“D.C. is such a vibrant city of culture and conversation,” he says. “I hope my counter will become a place of connection.“
His international exposure to so many new faces and places is evident in his personable take on the meal. While some Japanese omakase chefs take a serious and quiet approach to the pricey experience, his interactive style is anything but. Diners can enjoy a front-row seat of his sushi-making skills set to a wide smile and refreshing laugh.
Premium sake, wine pairings, and zero-proof options round out the menu. Ornate carafes, matching cups, and other sake vessels made of everything from blown glass to hand-painted ceramics are showcased on shelves upon entry. The growing sake list swings from accessible, like unfiltered Nigori for $65 a bottle, to baller: Tsugu Niigata prefecture, billed as Asahi Brewery’s “greatest achievement” (with only 2,500 bottles distilled each year), sets diners back $850.
Opposite the counter and past translucent shoji doors is the forthcoming Tatami Room, a zen respite from the busy downtown corridor suited for communal groups seated around a caved-in floor.
AloJapan.com