What is the ‘Mona Lisa’ of Japan?

As a critic for The Japan Times, a role I filled for 3 1/2 years, naturally I got a lot of requests for recommendations for art and books. In general, I find these tough to give to people whose tastes I don’t know, because without any input an algorithm’s output is bland and generic. But art is especially hard — tastes vary so widely and noninsiders aren’t used to articulating what kinds they like, or why. 

A common case is the brother-in-law of someone I haven’t seen for five years is passing through Tokyo with one free afternoon, and they would like to know, What’s the one museum or artwork they have to see while in Japan?

I usually sidestep the question, suggesting “the Nezu Museum for old Asian stuff with a nice garden and pleasant vibe” or “Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery depending on what’s showing.” When people ask me if teamLab is worth seeing, I say noncommittally, “It’s pretty fun the first time.”