Even in the competitive ramen neighbourhood of Fukushima, Moeyo Mensuke still manages to stand out. This is a testament to the restaurant’s modern, refined approach to ramen.

The decade-old noodle joint is tucked away in an alley just around the corner from Fukushima Station, with an all-white, almost windowless facade that gives little away. But trust the persistent queue outside its door, because the local clientele know that Moeyo Mensuke’s duck ramen is one of the best in Osaka.

Upon entering the narrow space, you’ll need to pick one of two options at the vending machine: a clam-based ‘golden shellfish’ ramen or the signature duck ramen. The latter is the richer and more popular of the two.

The chefs’ training at Kinguemon – an Osaka institution renowned for its shoyu (soy sauce) noodles – is evident in the silken broth that’s deeply flavourful yet light on the palate. It’s built on a base of Kishu duck from Wakayama and a custom soy sauce blend from Kagawa, with Tokushima’s Awaodori chicken added to balance out the duck’s gaminess.

This level of attention to provenance extends to other components in the bowl as well. The medium-thick noodles are sourced from the long-established Mori Seimen, while the egg is a prized variety from Kagoshima.

For the finishing touch, the ramen is topped with perfectly cooked duck and pork chashu that still retain a light blush, sweet and melty leeks, and bamboo shoots. It’s an elevated bowl of noodles that justifies the wait.

AloJapan.com