Once Japan’s Largest Hot Spring Retreat, Now an Empty Town of Abandoned Inns | Sakakibara Onsen

Once Japan’s Largest Hot Spring Retreat, Now an Empty Town of Abandoned Inns | Sakakibara Onsen

Once known as one of Japan’s finest hot springs, this town now stands quiet and forgotten. Surrounded by peaceful nature, it still welcomes visitors with the beauty of its true hot spring. Enjoyed gaming, good food, and relaxing in the onsen. It was a special moment that only those who visit can experience. There’s something special we’d like to share at the end, so stay with us until the finish. Hi! We’re heading to an old hot spring town, now quiet and full of abandoned inns. Let’s relax at a hidden hot spring. If you take the train, it’s about an hour and a half from Nagoya to Sakakibara Onsen-guchi Station. Sakakibara Onsen-guchi Station is a small unmanned stop. There are ticket gates, but they’re not automatic. We were the only ones who got off. The area is peaceful and full of nature. We’ll take the free shuttle bus from the station to our ryokan. The main onsen area is about 10 minutes away by car. Walking there would be a bit tough. There are no souvenir shops or stores along the way, and no one walking around. We just saw a deer earlier! We’ve arrived at the ryokan. Next door, there’s another ryokan and a day-use hot spring facility. But as of autumn 2025, only two ryokans, including Seishonagon, are still open in Sakakibara Onsen. Let’s take a short walk around the town of Sakakibara Onsen. Sakakibara Onsen is a quiet mountain hot spring area surrounded by rice fields along the Sakakibara River. It’s said to have first sprung about 1,500 to 2,000 years ago, making it one of Japan’s oldest hot springs. The spring water is alkaline simple hot spring, known for its thick and silky texture.
It’s famous among those who know it as a “beauty hot spring.” It’s also deeply connected to Ise Jingu, one of Japan’s most sacred shrines. Long ago, people purified themselves here before visiting the shrine, as part of their spiritual journey. Even today, the onsen water is offered to Ise Jingu every year as a sacred tradition. In those days, this area was home to one of Japan’s largest spa complexes, bustling with visitors from across the country. Later, when hot spring resorts across Japan began developing as tourist destinations… Sakakibara Onsen also thrived in the late 1980s, when many group tours came to visit. But as group travel declined in the 1990s, most of the inns eventually closed down. This one looks grand, but it’s no longer in business. Oh man… It says “Shukusha,” so it must have been a government-run inn. Trees have grown thick all the way to the gate. There are about three or four abandoned inns lined up here. Wow. A river flows right in front, and it’s such a beautiful spot. Now, this is one of the few ryokans still open in Sakakibara Onsen — Seishonagon. It’s a quiet onsen town, but I’ve heard the water quality is excellent, so I’m excited. The name “Seishonagon” comes from a writer who praised this onsen in her poems over a thousand years ago. This hot spring was already famous back then. Here’s what the souvenir shop looks like. They sell skincare products made with Sakakibara Onsen water and local sweets. Check-in starts at 3 p.m. >> Staff: Welcome. May I ask you to fill out the guest registration form, please. >> Staff: Your room for tonight is on the third floor. >> Staff: Now, I’ll show you to your room. >> Staff: Our building is long and narrow. >> Staff: Your room is located around the middle of the building. >> Staff: Before that, please allow me to guide you to the dining hall and the bath at the back. It has a warm but slightly old-fashioned atmosphere. Ukiyo-e paintings line the hallway, giving it a sense of history. >> Staff: Allow me to explain about the bath and how to use it. >> Staff: There are stairs going down to the basement, where the large public bath is located. >> Staff: The elevator doesn’t go down to the bath area, so please use the stairs. >> Staff: The bath is open until 1 a.m. and from 5 a.m. in the morning. >> Staff: Here is your room. Japanese-Western room with two meals: 25,600 yen per person (170.90 USD / € 145.74). >> Staff: Please take your time and make yourself comfortable. >> Staff: I’ll leave your yukata and room key here. >> Staff: The tea and water on top of the fridge are complimentary. >> Staff: The bottled water is actually from the hot spring itself, so please give it a try. >> Staff: Please relax and enjoy your stay. Thank you. This is the only Japanese-Western room in the ryokan. Found some welcome snacks! Yay. It looks like a flat rice cake. The mochi texture is smooth and soft. It’s filled with red bean paste. So good. This natural mineral water is filtered from Sakakibara Onsen’s super soft spring water. It tastes so different from the water I usually drink. I was really surprised. It’s smooth and a little sweet. I think it’s the first time I’ve ever found water delicious. There’s another snack! Shrimp rice cracker. Yum! There’s a relaxing sitting area by the window. Outside the window, it’s pure countryside nature. The peaceful scenery stretches as far as the eye can see. The chirping of birds, the murmur of the river, and the rustling leaves are all so soothing. It’s simple but has a TV and Wi-Fi, and the two beds look comfortable. The washroom and toilet are down one small step. A bit old, but perfectly fine. They even have skincare products made with Sakakibara Onsen water. Now it’s time for the moment we’ve been waiting for — the onsen. We’re taking our towels and heading to the public bath. There are only stairs to the bath, so it might be tough for those with bad knees. Men’s bath on the left… and women’s bath on this side. (Filmed with permission outside of operating hours.) The changing room is spacious like this. They have skincare products and hair dryers too. “The power of Sakakibara Onsen revealed through research.” Apparently, studies have shown benefits like lower blood pressure and improved skin recovery. Wow, it’s quite large. There are plenty of washing stations, and all the shampoos and soaps are provided. Even the showers use onsen water. It’s so silky and slippery. That’s crazy. It’s so slippery that I wasn’t sure if the body soap had completely rinsed off, haha. Still amazed by the shower, I slowly soak into the hot spring. The water clings softly to the skin, like soaking in warm lotion. It feels amazing and kind of addictive. I’ve tried many hot springs, but this is the thickest and smoothest water I’ve ever felt. It’s said that metasilicic acid and high alkalinity react with skin oils to make your skin silky smooth. The large bathtub is heated onsen water. When your body gets too warm, move to the smaller tub. The large tub is heated, while this small one is the natural spring at around 30°C (86°F). It’s not icy cold, so it’s actually easy to get in. Alternating between the hot and cool baths every 15 to 20 minutes feels unbelievably good. No wonder many people come here for therapeutic bathing. The silky texture feels so good, I already want to come back. After the bath, we’re going for a short walk outside. It’s more of a healing retreat than a tourist spot. There’s nothing around, but that’s part of the charm. The local hospital even uses Sakakibara Onsen for hot spring therapy. For local residents, the onsen is part of everyday life. There’s Iyama Shrine, an old shrine dedicated to the god of hot springs. It’s also said to bring good luck in love, so it’s become a popular romantic power spot. The large spa complex from long ago was located around this shrine. It’s a little sad that nothing remains today. Next to Iyama Shrine, we found a beautiful forest. It’s so pretty. This path was created to honor Matsuo Basho, a haiku poet active in the 1680s who loved this area. Looks like this leads to another path. Oh, is this another abandoned building? Sakakibara has a population of about 1,500, and the number of visitors has been declining. But being here, we found it full of discoveries and peaceful moments. It’s my first time here, but it somehow feels nostalgic and a little bittersweet. Sakakibara Onsen water used to flow naturally, but now it’s all pumped up. Is the water in your area soft or hard? This hot spring water is an ultra-soft water with zero hardness. So if you’ve never tried soft water before, you might be surprised. Not sure if you’ll find it tasty though. It’s time for dinner. I’m starving. Tonight’s meal is kaiseki in a large banquet hall. Starters include wasabi-dressed greens and sweet simmered green plums. There are little sushi pieces too, with many small dishes. Nothing fancy, more like home-style flavors, and good. They also use seafood like whelk, shrimp, and salmon roe. Sashimi time! The amberjack is delicious. Each item is small, but with so many courses it’s quite filling. I felt like sake, so I ordered a tasting flight. I could choose three from the menu… so I picked three sakes from Mie Prefecture. They’re all so good, I can’t choose a favorite. My husband got “Ninjer Ale.” There’s a ninja town called Iga not far from here. Grilled golden alfonsino with potatoes. The fillet is thick and fluffy. Lightly seasoned, so you taste the fish itself. The main dish is Matsusaka beef shabu-shabu. Beautiful. Each slice is huge. Shabu shabu shabu shabu. Let’s shabu shabu the vegetables too. Thin, tender beef. So good. I think the sauce is ponzu, a citrus sauce. Nice and firmly tart. We finish with edamame kamameshi, rice cooked in a small pot at the table. I love edamame rice. Got some crispy rice at the bottom too. Every dish was tasty, well seasoned, and paired nicely with sake. Thank you for the meal. After dinner, we’re heading out. We’re off to an activity unique to this nature-filled area. There are few streetlights, so it’s really dark. We’ve reached the river. What we came to see is… Can you see them? Fireflies. Oh wow, look! They’re glowing! On summer nights, the riverside is one of the few places where locals gather. Back at the inn, we’ll soak once more in the silky onsen and call it a night. Good night. This morning we start at Iyama Shrine, which enshrines the god of hot springs. We’re joining the Kentosai today. Kentosai is a ritual where Sakakibara Onsen water is offered to Ise Jingu. Before going to Ise Jingu, the hot spring water is first offered at Iyama Shrine. Kentosai is held every June, and you can join by applying in advance. Usually the public joins from Ise Jing… but this time we were allowed to start from the rites at Iyama Shrine. The name “Sakakibara” means “a field of sakaki trees (Japanese cleyera).” It comes from the fact that these trees were once used in rituals at the Grand Shrine. This place has long had a deep bond with the gods. Before heading to Ise Jingu by train… “The world’s tallest Great Kannon at 33 meters in pure gold?!” We have time, so let’s go check it out. The Louvre Sculpture Museum! I heard these casts were taken from real reference pieces at the Louvre. Wow. Hard to believe an official sister museum of the Louvre is in these mountains. Oh, there’s the Pure Gold Great Kannon. Massive! It was too early to enter before opening time. Maybe next time. Now from the station, we head to Ise Jingu. For regular visits, smart casual everyday clothes are fine. For Kentosai, it is a formal visit, so suits or formal wear are required. You can even see the Louvre Sculpture Museum from the station platform. The orange train is so cute. The limited express takes about 30 minutes to Iseshi Station, the nearest stop to Ise Jingu. We’ve arrived at Iseshi Station. They say visiting Ise Jingu is a once-in-a-lifetime journey for every Japanese person. Back in the day, pilgrims used to walk around 40 kilometers a day, and it took them one to five months to get here. And people once purified themselves at Sakakibara Onsen before visiting Ise Jingu. So coming from Sakakibara, we’re pretty serious pilgrims today. Ise Jingu has the Outer Shrine and the Inner Shrine, and the proper order is Outer then Inner. After washing our hands, we head to the Outer Shrine. People say the air at Ise Jingu feels different, and I really feel that. It feels pure and refreshing somehow. Every 20 years, the deity is transferred to a newly built sanctuary. This empty lot is where the next sanctuary will be built in 2033. During the Kentosai, you can do a mikakiuchi prayer inside the sacred enclosure. It is a formal prayer close to the deity, not open to the general public. No photos are allowed inside. A huge chartered bus takes us to the Inner Shrine. The Outer and Inner Shrines are about four to five kilometers apart. It takes over an hour on foot, so most people take a direct bus or drive. But long ago, pilgrims walked for months to reach Ise Jingu. That’s incredible. The Inner Shrine enshrines Amaterasu, the sun goddess and imperial ancestor. This is one of the most sacred shrines in Japan, so we naturally stand a little straighter. We now go to the Kaguraden to offer Sakakibara Onsen water. Ujibashi Bridge is said to link the everyday world and the sacred world. Ise Jingu tip: keep right in the Inner Shrine and keep left in the Outer Shrine. The air feels pure and calm. The onsen water is offered at the Kaguraden, a hall for sacred dance and music. Grateful for the deep ties with Ise Jingu, we make the offering. Arigoto Gozaimasu. After that, we watch a ritual of dance and gagaku music performed by priests and shrine maidens. It is sacred, so filming is not allowed. It was an amazing experience. Finally, a mikakiuchi prayer at the Main Sanctuary brings the Kentosai to a close. I’m so grateful for such a rare experience at Ise Jingu. I recommend it to anyone interested. Lunch near Ise Jingu. Ise udon has noodles that are incredibly soft with almost no chew. Tasty. This is another Ise specialty, tekone sushi. It is like a marinated sashimi bowl served over vinegared rice. Okage Yokocho is a street with over fifty souvenir and dining spots. A must stop is Akafuku!! Summer only Akafuku shaved ice!! Crisp and fluffy ice with matcha syrup. Such a good Japanese sweet. Oh, there is the Akafuku. Akafuku is a local sweet made of soft rice cake covered with sweet red bean paste. And it’s super delicious!! Back at Sakakibara Onsen, we have a bit of sad news. Tonight we’re staying at a ryokan called Shintokan. But since filming, it has closed as a hot spring inn. I debated whether to share this video… But I received permission, so please enjoy this stay vlog as a little time capsule. By the way, it has now become an esports lodging and bathing facility. What?! No way. The interior is a bit retro and warm. Up the stairs straight from the entrance. Uh… a sudden gate to another dimension appears, haha. This is actually a stadium where esports tournaments can be held. With depopulation and the pandemic, running a ryokan became difficult. So in 2023 they introduced esports to find a new path. From the outside you would never guess how professional the lighting, sound, and gaming setup are. Esports at a hot spring inn is pretty cool. They also showed us an esports training room made from a renovated guest room. The door looks awesome. It looks like a normal room, but inside it is serious. They say many guests meet their online gaming friends here for the first time in person. An offline meetup here sounds fun. A room with vast nature outside the window and pro level gaming inside. What a combo. You sleep Doraemon style — in the closet. The chair moves with the driving game. Wow. Maybe they should add an airbag feature next. Now we head to the regular guest room where we will stay. Shoes off and in we go. A simple ten tatami mat Japanese room. Calm and very clean. First thing to check is the sweets. Tiny monaka wafers. Inside is gooey mitarashi sauce. “The History of Shintokan.” So this is what this ryokan looked like in 1936. It’s so beautiful. There used to be an annex too, and it looked amazing. It’s a parking lot now, and I’m sad the building is gone. From the sitting area by the window, you can see greenery and the river. So pure and lovely. Now then, the thing to do is take a bath. We grab our yukata and towels and head to the bath. Men’s bath is this way. Women’s bath is over here. (Filmed with permission outside of operating hours.) A spacious bath with big windows looking out to nature. Wash up at the shower, then soak in the onsen. Just like yesterday’s ryokan, it’s a silky alkaline simple spring. No matter how many times I get in, that smooth feel is irresistible, and my skin feels soft all over. If you love hot springs, this is one to try at least once in your life. So gooooood. With our bodies warmed up, we stroll through the courtyard. It’s a charming Japanese garden. Dinner time. Seafood toban-yaki kaiseki dinner on the first floor. Oh, a private room. I ordered a junmai ginjo sake from Mie. A good bath and local sake is the best combo. Let’s start with the appetizers. Sashimi is salmon, lightly seared Spanish mackerel, and tuna. Fresh and tasty. Even the chawanmushi has crab. Lots of seafood. Salt-grilled ayu sweetfish. And the main, seafood toban-yaki. Looks luxurious. Butter with seafood can only be delicious. Abalone, scallops, shellfish, and vegetables sizzle to a nice aroma. It pairs well with sake and tastes great. That shrimp is huge. We finish with rice and dessert. I’m full. Everything was delicious. Thank you for the meal. Gaming in a yukata, then hopping in the onsen when you’re tired… kinda nice. Back in the room, the futons are laid out. Good night. Good morning. A classic Japanese breakfast is the perfect start to the day. This ryokan was a very nice ryokan. It’s now an esports-focused facility, so I’m curious to see how it looks these days. On this trip to Sakakibara Onsen, I had many moving moments. The gentle natural scenery… the rich history… the giant Kannon statue… and the silky hot spring water. It’s long been loved, yet now it rests quietly, which also makes you think. Among all our travels in Japan, this was one of the most memorable experiences for me. I wanted to express the charm of this place not only through video, but also in a tangible way. With help from the local onsen skincare shop SAKURA, TABBIA Onsen Hand Serum, made with Sakakibara spring water, was born. (clapping👏). Filled with love for travel and a touch of care. Sakakibara spring water contains metasilicic acid and gentle alkaline minerals, known for skincare. It’s truly a “beautifying hot spring.” TABBIA Onsen Hand Serum is made in Japan with Sakakibara spring water and plant-based moisturizers. Inspired by the smooth feel of the onsen, it has a light, non-greasy texture that only takes a few drops. It keeps hands soft and moisturized, perfect for everyday use or travel. Among the three, the Unscented type is oil free. It is a versatile choice you can use before meals or in crowded places. The Yuzu type contains citrus essential oils. It has a light, gentle citrus scent that never feels overpowering. It’s more moisturizing than the fragrance-free type, ideal for dry skin. “Hinoki” brings a calm, woody scent that feels like a hinoki wood bath. It’s the richest formula among the three. Each bottle is 15ml—small and easy to carry. Typically, one bottle lasts about a month. I picked a one-touch cap so you won’t drop it while traveling. Comes with an original pouch that perfectly fits all three bottles—handy for travel or daily use. Pocket-sized and cute. Each TABBIA Onsen Hand Serum is carefully handcrafted in Sakakibara. It may take time to ship overseas, but we hope it lets you feel the charm of Sakakibara Onsen. You can find it on our official online shop—check the QR code or description below☺️. It’s also available at SAKURA and Seishonagon in Sakakibara Onsen. At SAKURA, they serve coffee brewed with Sakakibara Onsen water. It’s so smooth and delicious—I love it. It made me realize how much water can change the taste. It started to rain. Thank you to everyone who always watches, and to those who are new to our channel. If you felt relaxed watching this, check out our other videos too. See you next time.

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♨️Sakakibara Onsen (Filming Cooperation)
Seishonagon Ryokan: https://www.seishounagon.co.jp/
Onsen Cosmetic Shop SAKURA: https://onsencosme.com/
Spaspo Shintokan: https://e-spaspo.jp/
*This video was filmed with the hotel’s permission.

🗒 How to Book Ryokan Seishonagon
Trip.com: https://www.trip.com/t/xPbEoDez4S2
Booking.com: https://px.a8.net/svt/ejp?a8mat=457LFV+AAX3FE+327I+HUD03&asid=a21022353840&a8ejpredirect=https%3A%2F%2Fow.a8.net%2Fs00000014283002%2Fredirect_v2.php%3Ftype%3Ddeeplink%26url%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.booking.com%252Fhotel%252Fjp%252Fseishonagon.html
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💰Room Rate
Japanese-Western room with two meals: 25,600 yen per person (170.90 USD / € 145.74).
*Prices may vary depending on the season and room type.

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⌛️ Timestamps
0:00 Opening
1:05 Access
2:44 History of Sakakibara Onsen & Exploring Abandoned Inns
5:43 Ryokan Seishonagon
9:37 Room Tour
12:04 Public Bath
15:52 Walking Around & Drinking Spring Water
19:02 Dinner
23:09 Firefly Viewing
24:38 Kentosai at Iyama Shrine
26:43 Louvre Sculpture Museum
28:19 Kentosai at Ise Jingu
34:38 Ise Jingu & Okage Yokocho
36:01 Shintokan
Currently closed as a ryokan
37:09 Esports Stadium & Room
39:28 Room Tour
41:25 Public Bath
42:47 Garden
43:10 Dinner
46:12 Breakfast
47:23 Special Announcement

#SakakibaraOnsen #IseJingu #HiddenHotSpring #MieTravel #japan #japantravel #asmr #cc_for_subtitle

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