Overnight Getaway To Rural Ena | japan-guide.com

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In this video we will go on a two-day trip to Ena, a rural gem on the historic Nakasendo highway, and check out some of its unique highlights: from a historic castle town to the spectacular Ena Gorge.

This video was filmed at the beginning of November 2023.

– Chapters –
0:00 Introduction
01:37 Ena Station – Travel to Iwamura
02:12 Iwamura Town
02:55 Gohei mochi
04:10 Iwamura Historical Museum
04:34 Iwamura Castle Ruins
05:50 Travel back to ena
06:20 Ichikawa Ryokan
07:33 Day 2
07:45 Oi-Juku Emperor Meiji Anzaisho
08:37 Hiroshige Museum of Art, Ena
10:10 Ena gorge
11:15 Outro

– Video Credits –
Host & Narrator: Matt Evans
Videographer: Thomas Roennlund
Producers: Stefan Schauwecker

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Japan is known for its plethora of 
must-see destinations – many of them  
in large cities. But whether you’re 
looking for that off-the-beaten-track  
experience or just want a break from the concrete,  
some time in the Japanese countryside is always 
a worthy addition to any travel itinerary.
Located in the southeastern part of Gifu 
Prefecture within easy reach of the famous  
Nakasendo hiking trail, the city of Ena 
is an underseen rural gem in attractive  
natural surroundings, with a peaceful 
atmosphere and plenty to see and do.
In this video, we’ll spend two days 
exploring the area and check out  
some of its highlights – from its historic 
castle town to the spectacular Ena Gorge.
Here’s the plan… on day one, we’ll take the 
charming Akechi Railway to the old castle town  
of Iwamura for a look around, before exploring a 
nearby castle ruin with a fascinating backstory.  
From there, we’ll make our way to a local inn 
where we’ll enjoy some traditional cuisine  
and stay the night. On day two,we’ll visit a very 
special guesthouse used by the Meiji Emperor, and  
then the Hiroshige Museum of Art, Ena. Finally, 
we’ll end our visit with a boat ride in Ena Gorge.
I’m Matt Evans, join me on 
a two-day visit to Ena City.
Our trip begins with a ride on the Akechi Railway  
a private line connecting the 
rural towns of Akechi and Ena.
Extending just over 25 kilometers and 
eleven stops through peaceful countryside,  
it’s a tiny railway with a lot of character.
A relaxing ride along the Akechi Railway brings 
us to the little historic town of Iwamura.
Once the home of a formidable mountain castle, 
in peacetime it became a popular rest stop  
on one of Japan’s most important 
historic highways, the Nakasendo.
Iwamura may have gone through many changes in its 
long history, but there are still see signs of the  
castle town it once was, from its old waterway, to 
little plazas where soldiers would have gathered.
You can still also see signs of feudal 
Japan’s rigid class distinction,  
with samurai residences on the north side of 
the river, and merchant houses to the south.
A popular snack here is Gohei mochi, a sticky rice  
cake coated in a sweet and savory mix 
of miso, soy sauce and walnut sauce.
We round off our time in the town with 
a visit to the Iwamura Jozo Brewery.
Founded in 1787 and run to 
this day by the same family.
Leaving the town behind, we make our 
way along a steep trail to the ruins  
of Iwamura Castle. But first, we make a stop 
at the Iwamura History Museum. On display we  
find some impressive weapons and armor, 
as well as a host of preserved documents.
At a lofty 717 meters above sea level, Iwamura 
Castle was one of the highest ever to be built in  
Japan and often hidden by thick mist, earning 
it the nickname Kirigajo, or mist castle. 
Despite its formidable defenses, the 
castle was bitterly contested during  
Japan’s era of warring states and changed hands 
several times in a series of bloody sieges.
The castle itself may have been 
demolished long ago, but looking at  
these impressive stone foundations it’s easy to 
imagine what a fearsome place it must have been.  
Visitors today can explore what remains and enjoy 
some wonderful views of the surrounding landscape.
After our time in Iwamura, we retrace 
our steps back to Ena Station.
From here, it’s just a short walk 
to our accommodation for the night.
In the centuries before trains 
and today’s mass transit system,  
the majority of travel was done on 
foot, via a handful of paved roads.
Of these, one of the most 
important was the Nakasendo,  
connecting the old capital of 
Kyoto with Edo, today Tokyo.
Located in one of the oldest parts of town, the 
Ichikawa Ryokan can trace its history back over  
400 years, when Ena was one of 69 post towns 
breaking up that long and difficult journey.
A stay at a traditional inn like this 
one is the perfect way to wind down  
after a busy day of exploring in the Japanese 
countryside. I’ve already tried out the baths,  
and now it’s time for our evening meal.
I’m about to enjoy this beautiful Kaiseki banquet.  
Everything you see here in front of 
me comes from within Gifu Prefecture,  
from the Hida of beef shabu shabu to 
all the various vegetable ingredients.
We begin our second day with a visit to 
another beautifully preserved historic  
building just a few steps from our ryokan 
– the Oi-juku Emperor Meiji Anzaisho.
One of the most fascinating things about 
historic highways like the Nakasendo is  
that even in times of strict class 
division, people of all kinds would  
have used them – from humble peasants to 
samurai, and even the highest ranking nobles.
For most of its history, this was the 
biggest and grandest lodging in town.  
Now lovingly restored and open to the public, 
it’s best known for one very special visitor…
This beautifully furnished tatami 
room behind me is where the Meiji  
Emperor stayed for just one night during 
a progress along the Nakasendo in 1898.
It’s been kept almost exactly as it was on 
that night, and include a number of items,  
witch becouse they where used by the 
emperor, can never be used again.
Just a short walk from the 
Oi-juku Emperor Meiji Anzaisho,  
our next visit is to the 
Hiroshige Museum of Art, Ena
to look at some beautiful woodblock prints 
and learn about life in a feudal post town.
Always in search of new land and townscapes,  
Hiroshige was a regular 
traveler on Japan’s highways.
Along the way, he recorded his impressions of 
the landmarks, views and post towns he passed,
ultimately establishing himself as one of 
the greatest woodblock artists of his time.
This is one of Hiroshige’s prints from 
around 1836-1838 and actually shows a  
group of travels making their 
way to what is today Ena City.
Snow is strongly emphasized as the area 
was known for heavy snows in winter,  
and in the distance we can see the Kiso Mountains.
We round off our visit to the museum 
with a simple block printing activity,  
creating a small print, using pretty much 
the same technique used in Hiroshige’s day.
From the Hiroshige Museum of Art, Ena we jump on 
a local bus for a 15-minute ride to Ena Gorge.
Close to the midpoint of the Kiso River 
that flows through Ena and its neighboring  
city of Nakatsugawa, the Ena Gorge is 
a large and very scenic body of water,  
known for its cherry blossom in spring, lush 
green forest in summer and fall leaves in autumn.
From the pier, we set off on 
a relaxing 30 minute cruise of  
the gorge, passing leafy scenery 
and interesting rock formations.
And that’s our two-day trip to Ena, thanks 
for joining me. I hope you enjoyed this video,  
and perhaps even have some new 
ideas for your next visit to Japan.
For more information about this 
trip or to watch another video,  
click the links on the screen now, 
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Happy travels.