Utsunomiya, The Secret Bartending Capital of Japan

There’s a town in northern Japan that has produced a number of national championship winning bartenders, as well as the 1987 world championship winner. That town is Utsunomiya. Naturally, I went to all the best cocktail bars in Utsunomiya to find out what makes this town so great.

The Punch Magazine article that inspired this adventure: https://punchdrink.com/articles/utsunomiya-best-cocktail-city-japan/

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==WHERE I WENT==

0:00 Intro
1:10 Bar Park Avenue
2:24 Bar Guff
2:50 Musshu Ogawa
4:11 As Time Goes By
5:45 Bar Craic
6:36 Paipu No Kemuri Aoki & Bar George
7:35 Day 2
8:15 Bar Cave
9:25 Bar Yamanoi [1]
10:15 Bar Chamonix
11:00 Bar Beck
11:30 Closed Bars
12:10 Juice
12:40 Bar Andalucia
13:30 Sakurai Paipu No Kemuri
13:50 Bar Lucifer
14:20 Bar Maron
14:50 Bar Yamanoi [2]
16:25 Day 3
16:50 Bar Aiba
17:45 Dining Bar Sukatto
18:37 Bar Chloe
19:13 Paipu No Kemuri
20:29 Bar Khan
21:04 Bar Kikyo
22:02 HIRO:Z
22:56 Outro

Several months ago I read an article in Punch magazine about a town in Japan that’s obsessed with cocktails. A town so obsessed with cocktails that they’ve produced some of the world’s greatest bartenders. Multiple international competition winners, national champions and even a world champion. That town is Utsunomiya.

What is it about this place that produces so many top notch bartenders? What are they doing differently? What can I learn from these bartenders? There’s only one way to find out… In 1999, the cocktail bars of Utsunomiya came together to form the Utsunomiya Cocktail Club

With the goal of promoting the cocktail industry of the city. There are roughly 30 cocktail bars in the club. I’m going to attempt to go to all of them, and I have 3 days to get it done. First stop: Bar Park Avenue.

I don’t think I could have chosen a better first stop than Park Avenue. They tout themselves as a whiskey bar more than a cocktail bar, but the cocktails are on point and perfectly made. In typical Japanese fashion, Park Avenue has no menu. Classics, fresh fruit cocktails, and plenty of whiskey.

When I mentioned my attempt to go to every bar in the cocktail club, the owner enthusiastically gave me a list and map to help guide me on my mission. If all the bars are as hospitable as my first stop, I’m in for a very entertaining journey.

In order to get to all 30 bars in 3 days, I have to set some strict guidelines. The routing for this journey is meticulously planned, taking into account bar location and listed opening hours. So when a bar says they’re open, but they aren’t it could cause some serious problems.

Any deviation could throw everything out of order and ruin the entire plan. Like, what happened at my second stop. Therefore, I need to set some ground rules. Rule number 1, if a bar on the planned route isn’t open during their listed opening hours, I’m not coming back.

Luckily, Bar Guff was open, which I thought was a cocktail bar, but turns out it’s just a whiskey bar. But that’s okay because they had an amazing selection, tons of bottles I’ve never seen before. If I was on a whiskey tasting tour, I’d stay here for hours, but this is a cocktail

Tour, which leads me to rule #2: no spirits. Cocktails only. This is a numbers game and if I go hard liquor, I’m not making it out of here alive. Musshu Ogawa. Homebase for 1988 Japanese bartending champion Nobuyuki Ogawa for nearly 50 years.

Stepping into this bar is without a doubt stepping into a piece of Japanese bartending history. 50 years of memories, 50 years of history line the walls and ceilings. Plenty more memories guaranteed to come. As is typical for Japanese businesses, his son currently runs the show.

Nobuyuki acts as more of a host than a bartender these days, but it’s easy to see why he’s been a stalwart of the industry for over half a century. The way he makes time for every guest, whether they’re regulars or first timers like myself is something any aspiring bartender should take note of.

Oftentimes the language barrier makes it difficult for bartenders to open up and make non Japanese guests feel welcome, but that was not an issue here, or nearly anywhere in Utsunomiya for that matter. Being a great bartender is more than just making good drinks, and even though Nobuyuki

Ogawa doesn’t make drinks anymore, it’s clear to see why he is a national champion bartender. Akira Tajima. 1987 World Champion. After winning his world championship while working at Bar Sukatto (a place we’ll stop later in this video), he moved to work in the bar epicentre of Ginza before eventually

Returning home to Utsunomiya and opening As Time Goes By. This man was world champion before I was even born, and 36 years later he’s still at it. Watching Tajima work is like watching a dancer perform on stage. His movements are swift and methodical, working with the grace of someone half his age.

This feels like performance art with the formality of being invited into someone’s home. A spectacle to watch, without a doubt. Cocktails are superb as well. His house gin tonic is modified with soda and bitters to cut back on the sweetness. Daiquiri is free-poured from the bottle without measuring yet balanced perfectly.

I could sit here for hours and not get bored. Absolute masterclass. Bar Craic is part Irish pub, part Japanese cocktail bar, which mostly means it’s a Japanese cocktail bar that also serves Jameson and Guinness. I could go for a pint of Guinness right now, but I’ll gladly take a Banana and Oreo cocktail,

Which was delicious. This is the first of many bars in Utsunomiya that is run by a younger generation of bartenders, which is a testament to the longevity of the industry. Young bartenders come in, train under the legends, and then move on to open spots like Craic.

It’s no wonder there are so many cocktail bars in the city. Paipu No Kemuri Aoki, which, if you’ve been paying attention, is the 3rd bar with the name Paipu no Kemuri (and it won’t be the last).

I’ll be honest I forgot to record much here, but all I can remember is the bartender being shocked to see a foreigner but also being super welcoming. Which is much the same for the next stop, Bar George.

A bit shocked to see a foreigner, a bit of a struggle with the language barrier, but more than eager to make me feel welcome and happy to have me as a guest. That’s my last stop for day 1. 2 more days of this is going to be a battle. But I will prevail.

Alright, it’s day 2. And, uh, breaking news but there’s no freaking way I’m getting to all 30 bars. I’m gonna try, but it’s… probably not going to happen. Also, how do people walk and navigate while doing this?

I’m trying to look where I’m going and not get hit by cars and also vlog at the same time? I hate this, this is stupid. In order to get the job done I gotta set some rules, which is: one cocktail per bar (unless

I’m like absolutely blown away), and if they don’t have a signature cocktail, low ABV only. That’s the only way I’m going to survive this. Remember, I’m doing this for you. With that said… Ugh, apologies for vlogging… it won’t happen again. Anyways, this is The Cave.

Home to the winner of the 2016 Padron Cigars cocktail competition. The goal, pair a cocktail with a cigar, and the winner was an espresso martini variation that I’m absolutely on board with. The name The Cave is kind of ironic as this is one of the more spacious bars in town.

Cocktails on point, as you’d expect, and a great looking food menu. This would be a great dinner spot if you’re ever in town (and looking for something other than gyoza, which Utsunomiya is also famous for). Next stop is Bar Yamanoi, run by a man who’s parents we’ll be meeting later.

The menu at Yamanoi is one of the most extensive in town, with a massive selection of award winning cocktails, from bartenders who work at Yamanoi, and featuring some who don’t. Yamanoi is another example of exceptional hospitality. It’s becoming clear that cocktails in Utsunomiya are about a warm laid back inviting atmosphere

With meticulous attention to detail in the craft of the drink. Bar Chamonix, another national champion training ground, is by far the classiest establishment of the bunch. Long mahogany bar and a massive selection of vintage wines and whiskeys. The 1998 national champion went on to hire and train the current head bartender who himself

Went on to win and place highly in numerous international competitions. A tradition of excellence. Bar Beck is the next stop and it’s really where you can start to see the divide between old and new. At a more classic cocktail bar, the drink of choice tends to lean towards gin and tonic,

Or whiskey highball. At bars run by the younger generation, like Bar Beck, the drink of choice usually ends up being a moscow mule, or espresso martini. But, everything else is the same. Warm hospitality, talented bartenders, and a great atmosphere. Some things change with time, some things last forever.

Coral Lounge Limousine is a jazz bar that, unfortunately, was closed.. I was kind of hoping to listen to some jazz. I love jazz. Oh well, on we go… to another bar that is closed. 2 in a row, kind of sucks but it might be a blessing in disguise?

This might be the luck we need to actually make it through the whole list. Make that 3 closed bars in a row. I might finish the entire route in 2 days at this pace. The streak ends at Juice, a riverside bar that gives off the vibe of a New Orleans neighbourhood joint.

The focus here is local spirits and the menu leans heavily towards highballs using local gins, rums and sodas. I had a fully local rum and coke which was absolutely delicious. Juice is the type of bar that I’d be at multiple times a week if it was located near me.

A few doors down the road is Bar Andalucia, a Spanish themed bar that leans heavily into sherry. Fresh fruit cocktails using sherry, spanish small plates, and I think that’s a Spanish movie playing in the background? I can’t tell. I’ve said this on the channel before, but sherry is great.

You should drink more sherry. Next stop is another Paipu no Kemuri bar. Are they related? Honestly, I don’t know. Paipu no Kemuri translates to “pipe smoke” and I think it’s just a signifier that you can smoke inside the bar.

I couldn’t get a clear answer on the meaning due to my severe lack of Japanese language skills. I’ve been learning for almost 3 years and I’d rate my Japanese at a very generous 2 out of 10. And that leads us to Bar Lucifer, a music lover’s dream bar.

Vinyl everywhere, non stop vinyl anywhere you look. They often have live music as well, but unfortunately not tonight. 0 for 2 on me getting to enjoy live music, but that’s okay. I don’t think I have enough time to sit around and enjoy a set anyways.

Bar Maron is next and it’s that time of night where I forget to film stuff. Maron is an American themed bar, heavy on the bourbon and 60’s diner nostalgia. A cool spot with a vibe unlike any other bar in town, and a bartender that trained underneath the man behind our next stop.

Bar Yamanoi. Yes, that’s right. Another Bar Yamanoi. And, believe it or not, in the exact same building as the previous Yamanoi. Bar Yamanoi on the 7th floor is run by 1987 national champion Yuzo Yamanoi, with his wife as his bar partner. The 2nd floor Yamanoi is run by their son.

Countless bartenders have trained under this man and the generous hospitality is first and foremost, and it echoes throughout the entire industry in the city. I ordered my standard, a daiquiri, and he also poured me a beer for some reason, and when Old Man Bartender pours you a beer, you drink the beer.

Looking back on this footage is honestly hilarious. I, understandably, hardly remember any of this. Him trying to speak in English, me trying to speak in Japanese, both of us pretending like we know what the other is saying. It’s hilarious. And that’s one thing I learned here at Yamanoi.

Even though we may not speak each other’s language, having a laugh and a drink together is a universal language that anyone can understand. Just be gracious, open, and don’t be intimidated by the language barrier. You’ll be sure to have a great time. It’s day 3.

So far I’ve been to 17 bars, and 5 more that I tried to go to that were closed. On my list there’s 8 more, and I think I’m gonna be able to do it, but I’m gonna need some help. I’m gonna need one of these. This is going to save me.

Japan’s magical anti-hangover potion. It’s basically just turmeric, and it’s supposed to help your liver process alcohol. Does it work? Is it placebo? I’m not sure, but when I take one before drinking, I usually end up feeling great the next day.

Another thing that makes me feel great is an espresso martini, which is the signature cocktail at Bar Aiba. Nothing will ever overtake the Daiquiri as my favourite cocktail, but an espresso martini, using a blend of 3 different coffee liqueurs, like the one at Bar Aiba, might do the trick.

This is one of the few bars in town that seems to innovating when it comes to cocktails. Plenty of house made liqueurs and tinctures on the back bar is a nod to the passion that the lead bartender has. Innovation is a lot easier to come by these days.

Newer, younger bartenders have a world of knowledge at their fingertips through a smartphone, something the older generation never had access to. Really makes me wonder what the world of bartending will be like in another 50 years. Bar Sukatto. A piece of bartending history.

It was here in 1987 that Akira Tajima created his world championship winning drinks. A stadium on par with the other great world championship winning arenas like Yankee Stadium in New York, or the Bernabeu in Madrid. Ok… not really, but I think you understand what I’m trying to say.

A world championship was achieved within these walls, and that’s no small feat. This is a piece of bartending history and I don’t think enough people appreciate that. It’s also just, like, a really good bar with a great food menu and atmosphere.

Most bars are lucky to last 2 years and the fact that this place has been here since 1966 is a testament to the quality. Bar Chloe is a French style bistro that feels lifted straight out of Paris. I very much appreciate the decor decision of just putting a full bathtub right by the

Front door, iconic. This is one of the newer openings in town and I don’t think they’ve quite got the grasp of the locals just yet, but the atmosphere and food & drink options are perfect for a date night. Paipu No Kemuri. The 5th Paipu No Kemuri. The original Paipu No Kemuri.

The sheer amount of national champions that have walked through these doors and stood behind this bar is unmatched anywhere in Utsunomiya, and likely Japan for that matter. Bartenders that work here become masters of their craft and go on to open other bars in Utsunomiya and beyond.

It’s places like this that fuel the cocktail industry in Utsunomiya and make it so great. It’s a younger generation currently working behind the bar, but it’s a guarantee these young bartenders will eventually move on and create some of the great establishments of the future.

Honing your skills behind this bar is sure to be a major stepping stone to success. Paipu No Kemuri is the past, present and future of bartending in Japan. Next stop is Bar Khan, a tiny little bar hidden on the 2nd floor above a ramen shop.

The man behind the bar is an eccentric welcoming character with a deep love of Wild Turkey, and I appreciate that more than you could know. I wasn’t there for long but the welcoming atmosphere made me feel like I had been a regular for years.

Just around the corner is Bar Kikyo, a newer bar on the scene having opened just a few years ago right in the heart of lockdown. Classics and fresh fruit cocktails just like almost every other bar, but they also pride

Themselves on pairing cocktails with desserts, which sounds like a great idea if my sugar levels weren’t already through the roof from all these Daiquiris. HIRO:Z, the final stop, and a fitting final stop considering this is the headquarters of the Utsunomiya Cocktail Club.

The late night bar of all the cocktail bars in Utsunomiya, a 4am closing time guarantees that this is likely to be the place where other bartenders come to get their post work drinks. I can’t believe I made it. I actually went to all the best bars in Utsunomiya.

If you’re in Japan and plan on traveling north of Tokyo to Nikko, Sendai, Tohoku and beyond, and are an absolute fucking nerd about cocktails like I am, then making a stop in Utsunomiya is a no brainer. Maybe just for 1 night, maybe 2. Go visit the old legends like Tajima, Ogawa, Yamanoi.

Hit up the legendary establishments like Sukatto or Paipu. And then check out the future at places like Aiba, Kikyo or Beck. Utsunomiya is bartending history at it’s finest, and a place off the beaten path that not many people get to experience.

Just a few moments at any one of these amazing bars and you’ll quickly understand what makes Utsunomiya such a great cocktail city. Laid back, welcoming atmosphere, with no fuss tended to by bar men and women with exceptional cocktail making talent.

Cities like Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka are must stops for a trip to Japan, but in my opinion, getting off the beaten path and exploring the unknown is the best way to experience this amazing country. More Japan episodes coming soon, please drink responsibly.