Japan thruhike EP09 || Góry nad Kobe, Osaką i Kioto || Dzikie oblicze japońskich miast

W 9 odcinku przejścia Japonii przemierzam wyspę Awajishima i przeprawiam się promem na Honsiu. Przez obrzeża Kobe docieram na górski szlak biegnący przepięknym masywem górującym nad gęsto zabudowaną niziną. Wodospady, wiaty i spokojne biwaki z dala od zgiełku, to coś czego nie spodziewalibyście się tuż obok największych metropolii Japonii. Odcinek zaczyna się od narracji z offu – niestety wskutek awarii aparatu nie zachowały się żadne filmy z Awajishimy.

Sprzęt, opis trasy i relacje na blogu: https://acrossthewilderness.blogspot.com/p/japonia-nihon-juudan-czyli-pieszy.html

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Temple 1st, for me the last, was the place where my camera broke again So again from the next two days I don’t have any footage, only a few photos from my phone This time at the beginning of an episode

I stayed at the temple a bit longer because I regreted that the trail ends and it was actually quite ok I sat under a shelter next to some tourist shops I thought I’d charge my electronics beofre the next stage

It wasn’t possible – one of the workers from the shop came and told me that It’s not allowed [didn’t say it but showed] There was a power outlet outside next to the bench

I thought it’s a normal thing but realised that in Japan using free public power outlets is seen as something inappropriate, something that shouldn’t be allowed Japanese try to make power outlets unavailable unlike in Europe where they are more and more public outlets Everybody know that phones need more and more power

So be warned. Next time when I go to Japan I will take a solar panel I din’t have it then so I continued without charging It was afternoon so I was in a hurry. It started raining, not very pleasant

I made a quick stop leaning onto a roadside barrier and ate my crab tube I turned from the main road more inland, choosing a smaller road. I didn’t want to finish Shikoku on a highway It was pretty with streams and dams, only the rain was irritating

The most difficult task was to find a campsite. I thought it’d be a real problem that evening I think it must have been a kind Kami, who made this little patch of grass around a forgotten moniment appear in front of me

Up to this day I have no idea what kind of monument it was It was a really good campsite. Nobody saw me and there was enough space Though in the morning I had a tick walking on tent inner. Probably was there in the evening already

I had seen ticks in Japan before, there are really huge, size of little finger’s nail Their shells are very hard and hard to squeeze unlike ours in Europe I had to use scissors to kill it by cutting in half

Later it was nicer, I followed the coast, wandered into a small peninsula and an island There were some really good views into the bays, I loved it. It was windy too Many boats were sailing Around noon I saw the bridge. The viewpoint was on a hill, there were many people

It was the bridge I wanted to walk to another island. There is ocean between Shikoku and Honsiu and in the middle is the island of Awajishima

So I wanted to walk the bridge and searched on the itnernet if it’s possible and asked the people. It was written that it’s possible and people also said it’s no problem, there is a viewing platofrm

When I came there I was told that it’s a motorway bridge and walking on it is forbidden. The viewing platform is only 100 m long ang going further is not allowed So I had a problem

I asked about a bus but I was told it departs from a town I passed the previous day and doesn’t stop by the bridge Then I got a genious idea to contact a guy from Slovenia that I met that morning on a lookout point

He was a photographer travelling around Japan and carcamping. We talked a lot We liked each other and exchanged instagram names So I wrote him if he would have time to give me a ride on the other side of the bridge – going there by car was the only option

Mitja agreed, I waited for him on a parking lot and he soon came He gave me a ride and dropped me off on a highway loop, the first place he could stop From there I continued hiking

It was the only option so I was glad I made and and didn’t really loose any time On Awajishima I hiked northeast along it’s western coast I thought It’d be better: more wild, more mountaineous and more forested I mostly followed a popular bike trail that goes around the island

But I didn’t want to hike on the paved road all the time so I found a good shortcut to Minato As always I didn’t know if the road would be walkable or end with a landslide

Luckily the road continued and I came to the town with a beautiful beach and a coastal pine forest The forest reminded me of pine forests around the Baltic sea, in Finland and especially in Estonia I was sitting there and filming a lot but footage didn’t survive

After a break I kept following the well marked bike trail The more north, the more touristy it was Lots of Hawaii vibes But it was still very classic Japanese with small shrines. Including those that have more than one tori gate I watched the sunset and a beautiful halo in the sky

Roadwalking was very unsafe and because there usually was no sidewalk quite dangerous too I had to stick to the barrier but on the other side was only a steep drop to the ocean Most drivers were driving safely

In the evening I was looking for a campsite like usually not knowing what that would be I found a shrine that was located on the tip of a very small spit There was a shrine surrounded by trees. It seemed popular, many people were still visiting in the evening

So I didn’t want to camp right next to the shrine Toilet was locked and I didn’t want to openly camp under a shelter But it was possible to go down to the beach. That era had very small tides because the island is surrounded by inland sea

I could find traces of the highest tide and it was far away from the embankment So I pitched right next to the embankment ignoring “no entry” sign It was so beautiful with quiet sea and very small waves

I sat on the stairs and didn’t even film, only enjoyed the place. It was dark anyway I made scrambled eggs with bacon and onion, I made tea I also opened my favorite green tea chocolate and watched the start, it was amazing It was one of the best evenings I spent in Japan

In the morning the weather was fine, the views were good too There were many beaches that look like swimming and beaches There are small waves only so it’s safe to swin for everyone on Awajishima but it was too early in the season in mid May

In the afternoon I almost reached the end of the island which is only 60 km long Even though it was early I had to stay for the night there, further I wouldn’t be able to find a campsite The opposite shore holds the biggest metropolis in Japan, together with Kobe and Osaka

It didn’t make any sense to go there, instead I looked around in the surrounding bushes around the lighthouse There were many people there too. It was weekend and since it’s so close to Kobe and Osaka the island gets very crowded on weekends

Bushes were dense and it was hard to find a suitable spot but I managed One person even saw me which rarely happened, only 2 times when wild camping in Japan But that person got scared thinking I’m a homeless person and just run away, so no problem

In the morning I got up early and catched the morning ferry On the northern tip of Awajishima there is both a very long suspention bridge and a passenger ferry Bikers and locals use it So I jumped in and the travel was very fast, about 20 minutes maybe with a catamaran

We landed on the other side of the strait in Akashi city From there I headed to Kobe I hiked on the northwest outskirts of Kobe not seeing much of the city but central enough to find a big supermarket

It was a very big supermarket and I was lucky to find a few of my favorites that were hard to find including the green tea chocolate LOOK brand It had 3 flavors in one box, it was so delicious and I was so disappointed that it was so hard to find

They had cheese too, also so rare Apart from that I bought cookies and some tempra for lunch. Classic Then I went into the city, through a park, thinking that camping in it’s more wild part would be possible I also went through suburbs which were very green and nice looking

At some point I realised that there’s something wrong with my camera I changed the memory card in Kobe, right on time before I met a very nice person The rest of this video has normal footage My camera got crazy again, I switched memory cards and I hope it will work for some time

I got lost and now I’m taking a shortcut to get to the route I wanted to follow in mapy.cz Nice park, not busy at all. I think It would be possible to hide in the bushed and camp Even in such a big city you can meet a Trail Angel! Japanese are amazing

This lady spontanously asked me where I’m going and offered strawberries So we are chatting and eating strawberries Mapy.cz found places that even the locals don’t visit Hills, stairs, definitely not the shortest route Oh, how pretty it is! What a nice city!

Mapy.cz doesn’t disappoint. They worked well finding a route that goes through interesting neighbourhood Nice, I like the architecture. It seems slightly colonial but very unique Sometimes I come to a city or country for the first time and I’m like: OMG, it’s so ugly It can be a problem Small shinto shrine here

So Kobe traverse is quite pleasant Well, the centre with sky scrapers is more in that direction. They aren’t sky scrapers, too short for that. Just blocks On the foothills of the mountains there are nicer neighbourhoods with pretty houses. This street is pretty Another nice house

I’m headed to Shin Kobe train station and from there to a mountain trail Although I’m pretty sure the trail will be at least partly paved Yesterdays tral was excellent. It was paved at the beginning and there were many people but there were also wonderful waterfalls I wanted to see

After the falls trail became more wild, it split into different trails, from which I chose a less popular one that follows a ridgeline The ridge is rocky in places and has many summits I was camping on a ridge, or rather just below it

Strong wind picked up, it started to rain. It was very cold and unpleasant but the ridgeline is very narrow Finally at 6:55 pm I found this spot when it was almost dark There is a saddle and an animal path

Here I found an almost flat spot. It wasn’t flat at all, everything hurts me after the night I had to lean on one side not to slide down There is a mud pool where frogs are having fun making a lot of sound

I hope it won’t rain today, it stopped at night. Tent is almost dry We’ll see. Today there are many mountain tops ahead of me Some ov them are paved. There is a main road going to the top of Mount Rocco But first I will climb Mount Maya, Maya-san

San is a special word added to nouns. It means respect and when it’s added to mountain names it means it’s a special mountain holding a spirit. Something like that I was called san too, Zebra-san, by the nice lady in Kobe who gave me strawberries

She liked what I was doing and asked if I will be in Japanese tv So far I was only in one television in Japan, a local Tokyo station and program about foreigners coming to Japan

I will be on YouTube but the lady was a little older and didn’t watch YT and didn’t use Instagram She also gave me two tomatoes I ate in the evening with pork schnitzel and rice

I was so glad I bought ready to eat food because cooking in the wind and rain would’t be fun. Vestibule came out very small this time I have to pack before somebody comes I thought I heard a dog but now it’s gone

Yesterday in the rain I completely forgot but 4 km ago I reached 1200 km Nice that it’s on Honsiu The day is cold and windy. Long time since I was wearing warm longsleeve and beanie! Perfect hiking weather, only if it doens’t rain

I solved the mystery of the animal path next to my tent: it was animal path Mud puddle was frequently used by wild boars When I was having breakfast a huge boar came, probably a mother because a moment after 4 baby boars came Now the 4 babies showed up behind the corner

I’m wondering where is the mother The mother scolded me hoarsely, angry at me. No surprise! I’m not there anymore, they can take mud baths It alw…oft… sometimes happens that wild animals come to my campsite when I’m having breakfast I’m quitet, they don’t expect me there One time in the USA a lynx came

There are no lynxes in Japan, no big predators except bear that I haven’t seen yet I hope I will on futere kilometers Not too bad! Good it’s not raining, it would rain inside. But the weather is great and I will sleep on the bench I hung mosquito net

I needed to get my tent dry anyway The fly is on the barrier I don’t feel mosquitoes but there always can be something like ants It’s nice to have something around and the net also gives some shelter from the wind It was a great, beautiful day

All day in the mountains, only 2 or 3 km in the city I went to the supermarket so I ddin’t have to carry a lot of food I will show you what I bought Fantastic trail. Lots of climbing and stairs but not much concrete or asphalt, just beautiful trails

Trail is taken care of. No navigation issues, I just frequently checked where I am Greenery and the azaleas Cool temperatures too after rain. I was wearing additional layers in the morning but later it was just perfect So for dinner I have dumplings, dumplings in broth so to say

I have 2 boxes of dumplings, 24 altogether but very small. They were on offer It will be a soup I will boil onions and add onion soup, the only clear instant soup without starch I found Eating dumplings with starch soup would be awful Kinda like Russian pielmieni

For dessert I bought sweet balls, they are green and sprinkled with brown powder I hope they don’t contain beans Final result is like this, not bad Nice brown color, dumplings are cooked and I have a full pot So there really are bears here, this is 100% bear poo

It was eating cherries, cherries from sakura tree that blossom in early May Where would it be? Somewhere on trail Even so close to big cities it’s so wild that bears and wild boars can roam free, fantastic Far behind me is Osaka and the sea, Osaka is located along the bay

These are the mountains I climbed yesterday I went down to the city and resupplied where the 3 big skyscrapers are And then I dived deep into the forest. Now following the ridgeline I will soon go down but now yet. The way down should be gentle, I hope

The ridge is gentle and it’s easy to follow I will be walking through the city for a while Until Minoh where I will join Tokai Nature Trail It’s marked on mapy.cz so it will be easy to follow, I will use it, why not

It seems that I will be able to hike in the mountains all the way to Kioto Such a nice trail. Reminds me of the Appalachians and it’s the best kind of trail in general Good trail on a wooded ridgeline Surprisingly it rained at night

I woke up hearing strange humming and tapping noise and I thought what is that? Only a few little drops fell on my face. Roof was enough this time, trees surrouding the shelter helped I hope to find a good place for the night today too but that’s in a while

I started early today, at 6 am so a lot of time to get somewhere The way down is not so gentle, steep and rocky In good weather is fine. There is a view over Osaka and departing planes one by one Their passengers will be in Europe, America or somewhere else in 15 hours

I have to wait a few months I hiked through Kawanishi and went to a castle hills with some ruins left Not much is visible but there is a nice park Place to sit, fish pond, and for me time for first lunch And back on trail. Nice waterfall there

Easy walking trail so lots of people, including foreign tourists Soon they will disappear I’ve spent too much time in Minoh I went to an expensive shop so I wash wandering in the aisles looking for something cheaper

I got rice, pork schnitzel, some minced patties and a few other things but I tried to refrain from buying too much Nice to be in the shade. In the sun it’s instantly hot even though it’s only 20 degrees Celcius, very pleasant

I’ve been counting and it seems that I could camp just before Kioto tomorrow, still in the mountains This way I could avoid looking for a hostel in the city It’d be good as it will be a weekend and it’s still the season so prices are high

Maybe I will traverse Kioto the day after tomorrow, I will see Anyway, another mountain section ahead The trail is great. I lost it but found it later Faint path was hard to find but the actual trail was nice again I’m so hungry, burning a few thousands of calories a day

It’s constantly uphill or downhill on stairs There was no shop on the map for today. Yesterday I resupplies just enough not to buy too heavy and not to spend too much money So now I was constantly thinking I don’t have enough food

But the trail was cutting a corner in a village and I saw a shop So I came here. Saleslady is very nice, she asked where I’m going and I told her: Hokkaido I got additional packet of chips. I think some time will pass before I spot another shop in Kioto centre

I got cookies that I run low on, jellies Apple and bananas, normal price 150 yen, bananas were extra cheap Slightly expensive for an apple I have to wash it There will be a public toilet I’m so excited about the bananas

There are many more fruit and veggies but I can’t carry that much, with so many mountains to climb today 4th meal today, under the umbrella as it has started to rain It looked like rain since morning, the forecast was for 1,5 mm of rain, maybe it won’t be too bad

Climb up Mount Ponpon, all the climbs… Terrible I feel out of energy, like I had a black hole in my stomach I’m eating all the time and I’m hungry all the time, burning energy crazy fast Mountains all the time Climbs and steep stairs. Only here is a short section without stairs

Thinking if I will have to hike with umbrealla and only one pole in hand. Now it’s not that bad, I will hike with two Maybe I’ll get to the top I had to take the umbrella and hike up with one pole Top of Mount Ponpon, 678 meters above sea level

Highest mountain west of Kyoto Kyoto is behind the trees, can’t see it through the rain. The valley is visible but hardly It’s cloudy and foggy… Looks bad on both sides, better on the valley side It’s normal, mountains squeeze the rain out

I’m going. There is no shelter, I’m sure it’s to prevent people from staying here. No fires sign and a few benches It stopped raining but it was quite an intense rain

I went down to a temple but it was a weird place. Only one guy was there on guard and dogs on chains were barking There was nice old shrine too but too close to the dogs

Then I climbed on a barely visible trail up to a road that I thought would be for tourists but it was covered in moss I turned on even smaller road and this is more weird, a strange building, high fence, powerline Look at this car left in the forest

Oh my, I’m like 1 km from Kioto and it looks like this!? I thought it would be a well trodden popular trail. There is a trail, people walk it but it’s not marked Mapy.cz were showing a path along the powerline

It didn’t exist but I found another trail going around the mountain that eventually led me to the road but I hiked more distance than I wanted The forest looks ok for camping so I think I should find a good spot soon

O there is a pink ribbon marker, ok so there is something… Old tire too… Oh my So people hike here from time to time but it’s not popular. That’s good, it will be peaceful camping Although the deer get very stressed and make a lot of squeeky sounds

This is my campsite. I climb a hill 568 m high and there is a nice flat spot Can’t resist pitching here 6:55 pm, soon it will get dark. Perfect. Recently I’ve been finishing 6:55 pm