After a quick day trip to the nearby town of Jakurgan, I arrived back in Termez, Uzbekistan just in time for my next adventure! Come along with me as I try some mouthwatering Uzbekistan street food on a nighttime somsas tour in Uzbekistan’s hottest city!
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My afternoon started at one of the mausoleums of the Sultan Saodat Complex in Termez. This complex also contains mosques and a khanaqa and was built between the 11th and 17th centuries. It’s the resting place of members of the Sayyid Dynasty of Termez.
The mausoleum contained lots of beautiful brick work. This type of design can only be found here and at Jakurgan Minaret. There was also stunning blue and aqua tilework around the archway. I loved the colors of the designs, which were white, aqua, and yellow.
Even though it was constructed during the Islamic Period, the architects included symbols from other religions, like Zoroastrianism and Buddhism.
Inside the crypt, one of the oldest parts of the complex, we saw the graves underneath the dome. Even Genghis Khan didn’t destroy this place when he destroyed Termez because of the influential people who were buried there.
Next, we headed to Kirk Kiz, an 11th-century complex. Some believe it was a palace, while others say it was a fortress. There’s a local legend that 40 women, led by the princess Gulaim, lived there and fought off raiding nomads.
It looked like a fortress to me! It’s a square, walled complex that’s about 54 meters long on each side. Each corner was protected by a tower. Archaeologists have been excavating the site since 2016 but are still unsure of its function.
On the grounds is a wish tree, where women tie a piece of cloth like a scarf or tissue on its branches so God will grand their wishes. The residency has 15 rooms that have been discovered, as well as huge hallways. Most of the building is in ruins, though. It was so large and grand!
Next, we stopped to get some watermelon. They usually cost 12,000 som/$1.26 USD each, but we negotiated and got 2 for 20,000 som/$2.10 USD.
We came across musicians playing traditional long horns called karnay, in a wedding near my hotel!
We started at Sina Restaurant, where they had a tandoor full of somsas baking inside. The guys who run the restaurant are from the town of Sina, and they brought their local somsa recipe with them. They’re crunchy on the outside and contain beef, onions, and lamb fat. You open them and eat them with a spoon with a spicy, gazpacho-like tomato sauce. The onions were crisp, and the fat was juicy. The sauce was the best part!
Then, we headed over to Denov Somsa, where they had just put the somsas in the tandoor when we arrived. It’s located in an open-air food court where you can get beer, kebabs, and more. I got a light local beer and tried a dense, chalky yogurt stick. Then I tried he national beer, which was more wheaty.
These somsas were from another region and were very buttery and crunchy. I bathed it in more of the spicy tomato sauce. It was my first spicy dish in Uzbekistan. I loved the onions and the beef inside. Somsas are the ultimate meat pastry. After I ate, I went to the back to see how they’re made! They flatten the dough, add the beef and onions so it’s really thick, and then they brush them with butter and put them in the tandoor! They’re so different from empanadas and samosas, which are always fried!
I hope you enjoyed coming on my somsas tour in Termez, Uzbekistan! If you did, please give this video a thumbs up and leave a comment. Also, please subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don’t miss any of my upcoming travel/food adventures!
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About Me:
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last decade, I have been traveling around the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,100 destinations in 76 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media sites.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local history and culture.
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