Застрял на машине, в метель, на высоте 4000 м!

Застрял на машине, в метель, на высоте 4000 м!

Listen, I’m slowing down, but I’m still sliding downhill. Are you filming? – Yes. – Well, I don’t know. What should I do now – film or pray? Anyway, I woke up in a local yurt. It’s really cold in there. And overall, the temperature here is below freezing. Last night it was about -5°C. There’s frost, snow, and hail. We’re heading to Lake Kelsu now. Can you hear it? There, behind you, and to the right. Well, that means left, okay? Well, when we turn around now, then to the right? – There too. – Yes, to the right. – Oh , come on. I’m heading into the water now. And straight ahead, right? – Yes, straight ahead. I’m about to cross the river now. Well, the first river to Kul Suu has been forded, but we haven’t even left this camp zone yet. We’re heading to the very last camp now, and there are yurts there too. So, this is still civilization—everything we’ve just pushed through. But what’s next, I imagine, will be some real off-roading. Overall, it’s another interesting test of both my and the Kruzak’s endurance. I’m finally at Lake Kelsu. It’s right behind me. This was probably one of the most anticipated points on my Kyrgyzstan trip. For some reason, I had high hopes for this lake. And this is one of those times when expectations met reality. A very beautiful road, incredible mountains along the way, an incredibly beautiful lake. The road here—you can’t say it’s easy, but you can’t say it’s difficult either. In places, skill is absolutely essential, because there are sharp turns and steep climbs along the serpentine. Large rocks are everywhere. And, accordingly, there’s a risk of blowing a tire. The second risk is falling into the abyss. The third is simply not being able to make it up this climb if you don’t have enough power. But the views are definitely worth it. And overall, that feeling of being one with nature—it’s there. But the lake wasn’t my final destination. The locals told me that on the other side of the lake, inaccessible by car, there’s a real bear’s cave. During the warmer months, it leaves the cave, but in the winter, it returns and makes a place to hibernate. Well, I hope they’re not mistaken—there won’t be a surprise waiting for me there. So, we’ve reached the first stop. This is where the bear’s cave is. The bear has a good choice—he’s built himself a big apartment. Wow. The cave creates an unusual effect, as if you’re on some moon or, I don’t know, some planet. Every step you take kicks up dust. I’ll try to test how deep it is, the old-fashioned way: I’ll just slam a rock in there. So, let’s give it a try. — Yeah, it’s just a brake. — Oh, they soundproofed it, huh? Nice car. A very nice car. Dad wants to buy one too. A tent. It’s not that easy to pull out. I’m sure it’s not easy to put up either. I’ll throw it down nicely now. Okay, well, now we’ll try putting it up and inflating it. Yeah, where will this be our first experience, right? Where? So this won’t be much of a presentation. Where should I look for it? Where? Well, for now I just need to test how long it takes, so that if I have to put it up at night or in bad weather, I’ll already have the skills. The instructions said: “Very easy to put up alone.” Well, damn. Well, here’s a city person. The tent is almost ready. Basically, it provides a little shade. You can climb under it. And even stand up to your full height. That’s it, I’m inside. Well, that’s it, you can basically spend the night like this. And also here in the photo – it’s like he’s mocking – one person is doing all this. Well, his face also looks dissatisfied. Dear diary, I can’t find the words to describe the pain and humiliation I experienced today. I have a block without a mat, but here… I realized that the problem was not with the tent, but with the pump. Well, and with me. I need to inflate it with the original pump. That’s it, it’s made of stone. And the tent is ready. And look how awesome it is. Very easy to pitch alone. Anyway, I take back what I said. This tent can most likely be made by yourself. Well, I mean, set it up. You lay the floor, put the tent on it, secure it with pegs. You do n’t even have to secure it, as I just realized. Just inflate it – it rises, you make a frame inside with these sticks. Well, that’s it: fasten the floor, open the windows – you’re ready to live. I’ll shoot a more complete review later . All the reviews I saw of this tent were in English, Czech, and somewhere else. And this will be a full review in Russian. Damn, I actually want to live here now. I continued on, enjoying every kilometer. I continued to admire Kyrgyzstan’s nature. Every 50-100 kilometers, the views were so different that on my route I managed to visit Scandinavia, the deserts of the Wild West, and the forests of Siberia. It’s great that you don’t have to rush: you can stop at any time and just enjoy the beauty around you. Well, that’s where I was this morning and where I am now. Anyway, the night passed, I pitched the tent, and I couldn’t be happier with it. It really did protect me from the wind. I put all my gear and bags in there, set up a table and chair, and cooked myself dinner. Well, I spent the evening happily . What happened in the morning? First, I realized that I really hadn’t secured the ropes well enough. The wind was blowing alternately from different directions, and the tent was starting to wobble, to put it mildly , and I kept having to lift it off my knees. By the way, here’s a demonstration of the tent itself. I thought it was going to be a wonderful morning in the tent: coffee, a warm breakfast. There you go. And for a while, it was like that. Well, anyway, everything went to hell… I need to try to do it all over again. I don’t know, basically, it’s driving me crazy… Damn, I really want to redo it. I just want to understand the principle right now. Get up! The tent can’t hold up, and my nerves can’t hold up either. Basically, I need to fold this damn tent up. It’s really cool: it’s big, spacious, everything fits in it, it has a very high arch, it’s comfortable to stand in. Now all I need to do is learn how to pitch it properly, because I still have faith in it. This tent is a real winner in contrast. And no matter what the wind, I’ve never had any problems with it drooping. The only catch is that you can’t stand up straight in there. I just made myself some tea and poured it into a thermos. The supply should last until the next point. The thermos holds the heat very well. In fact , it even holds the heat for about two days. That is, after two days, it’s basically warm and pleasant. If we’re talking about camping comfort, then, of course, it’s about food. And, of course, the toilet. I understand that some people skip over these topics, but let’s be honest: the question of how you handle the toilet issue—well, it’s super important. Of course, I thought about it too, considering different options. So, I immediately ruled out a composting toilet, because, well, somehow… I don’t know, in my mind: I have a lot of things, and if I were to also have a composting toilet, even one filled with chemicals, but I would potentially understand that I have waste products in there, and they could spill on a bump or something—that would be extremely burdensome for me. The second point: I naturally researched this topic too; it still needs to be drained and cleaned somehow . I wanted to avoid this as much as possible. And I was thinking: what solution can I find that doesn’t take up much space, is foldable, and meets my requirements. And pay attention: I’ll show you what it is now. So, I present to you a unique thing, simply amazing! It’s actually a portable folding toilet for people with disabilities. But in fact, it’s a truly brilliant thing for travel. Firstly, this thing is very sturdy. Secondly, it’s comfortable. These plastic things here don’t get cold even in sub-zero temperatures. The toilet seat, in fact, isn’t particularly cold either. There. Plus, there’s even a backrest. So, at some point, you can relax, sit down, and look at the stars. This thing can hold 150 kg. So, how this thing disassembles—I’ll show you again. First, you remove this part. Oh, you see, it turned out really simple. Then this part just comes together. Please, let’s be objective. If you’re traveling alone and you have a tent like this, a tent like this, and quite a lot of things, packing it all up really takes about two hours, because you first have to drag it all around, pack it up, pack it up, and wash some things. And the tent, of course, doesn’t fold up perfectly into its cover. It’s a whole quest. I’m driving toward Karakol, but I’m driving along a very picturesque road through various gorges. There’s no one around. The road is all rocks. I just passed a river, and below me there was an abandoned hut. As I understand it, it was probably used by gold miners in the past, because I no longer understand what the scenario is here—building a fairly large building right next to the riverbed. That is, Most likely, they were panning for gold there, and apparently, they did something with it in this building. We’re driving over the Tosor Pass. The weather is getting worse, it’s getting dark, there’s snow all around. A few more hours of driving is the ultimate extreme, but going down isn’t the best idea either. Damn, the brakes are already slipping a little. Visibility is bad, everything is still fogged up. But adventures like this are what we go to the mountains for. But I had no idea what awaited me next. On the descent, the brakes are crap. I’m practically driving through the snow. To be honest, it certainly scares me. Anyway, I’m just going to have to creep along even on short descents because I’m just sliding down by inertia—because there’s ice, snow, it’s really slippery. — We’re going to crash! — Turn off the camera for now. So, I’ll describe the situation. I was driving along the planned route over the Tosor Pass, and it all started out pretty interesting: yaks, snow-capped mountains, bad weather, but not too bad. It’s snowing lightly, climbing. The weather is getting worse—snowing. There’s a closed gate ahead, tied with rope. One hundred percent advice: if the barrier ahead is closed, then there’s a huge chance— a huge chance—that you shouldn’t go there. But a real blizzard is already starting, snowing. I realize that it’s going downhill from here, that the tires’ traction is terrible. I have AT tires. They’re supposedly all-season, but they’re certainly not designed for ice. I realize the situation is extremely bad, I need to turn around, because I really started to skid on the last descent. So I’m just driving—the Toyota ABS isn’t doing a damn thing. I’m just stomping on the pedal. There’s a huge boulder ahead. Somehow, I just manage to avoid it. I brake, turn around, and get ready to go back. There’s a climb. I didn’t take into account that, of course, there’s also ice. I pick up some speed, get almost to the end—that’s it, there’s not enough power. I stall and roll back a little. Luckily, I managed to brake, too. That’s it, I’m stuck. Then I look: there’s a slope behind me, about 100-150 meters, quite steep. In the middle of this road there’s a boulder that I need to go around. I realize that if I try to go up now, I won’t be able to. So I need to pick up speed from a standing start, but then, most likely, what will happen? I’ll just roll back under inertia, on the ice. And then there are two scenarios: either I back into this boulder, or I go around it and just fly off into the abyss. I decide to spend the night in the car. The car is parked on the slope, with the handbrake on, in gear. Plus, there are boulders on the wheels behind me. I don’t know what will happen to the road tomorrow. A snowstorm. My windshield is already completely covered in snow, the hood is covered in snow, the road ahead is also covered in snow. But at least there will be light, I’ll be able to assess something. I have a shovel, in a pinch I’ll go dig. I’ll sleep in the car, of course, not upstairs. I don’t even know if I’ll sleep or not, if I’ll fall asleep in this situation, because it’s still scary. Well, let’s roll back – something else. I’ll conserve fuel. My current situation is: I have one notch more than half a tank. I have food, I have water. But still , of course, this is probably the most dangerous and extreme situation of the entire trip.

В этой серии моего путешествия на Land Cruiser 76 я отправляюсь к одному из самых удивительных мест Центральной Азии — высокогорному озеру Кель-Суу. Дорога к нему оказалась невероятно красивой: ущелья, бирюзовые реки, отвесные скалы и полное ощущение оторванности от мира.

После ночёвки в новом шатре, который всё утро приходилось буквально “поднимать с колен” под мощными порывами ветра, я продолжаю путь к перевалу Тосор.
На высоте более 4000 метров погода резко изменилась — началась снежная метель, а неподходящая резина сделала подъём по-настоящему опасным.
В какой-то момент мой Land Cruiser 76 застрял в снегу, и пришлось искать способ выбраться, пока стихия полностью не накрыла перевал.

Это серия про настоящую свободу, безлюдные дороги, красоту Кыргызстана и моменты, когда путешествие превращается в испытание.

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00:06 – Начало конца, в прямом и переносном смысле
00:23 – местный гид показывает путь до озера Кель-суу
02:30 – прибыл на самую ожидаемую точку маршрута в Кыргызстане
02:55 – какие опасности ждут путешественников по дороге на озеро
03:50 – встречусь ли я с реальным медведем в пещере?
04:15 – гуляю по лунной поверхности
04:33 – проверяю глубину пещеры дедовским методом
04:51 – местные оценивают Land Cruiser 76
05:11 – Что не так с шатром?
06:15 – Найдена причина моих мучений
07:25 – Разнообразие природы Кыргызстана
08:39 – моя утренняя рутина: «ожидание и реальность»
09:01 – Разочарован шатром
11:46 – Лайфхак моих путешествий
13:17 – дорога на перевал Тосор, живописнее дороги не встречал
14:27 – попал в снегопад, не знаю, чем это закончится
15:33 – свернул не туда
17:29 – принял важное решение которое может меня спасти