At Cuore in Hokkaido, lamb offal plays more than a bit part

Shiranuka, Hokkaido –

A visit to Farm Restaurant Cuore is not an outing to be undertaken lightly. Even if you live in Hokkaido, serious planning is needed before you set out. From Sapporo, it’s a road trip or scenic train journey of close to 300 kilometers, taking you to Shiranuka on the island’s far southeast coast.

Flying into Kushiro, farther east still, is the easier option, although this is likely to entail spending at least one night in the city. But do not be deterred: For anyone with a sense of adventure — both geographic and gastronomic — Cuore is not to be missed.

The road inland from Shiranuka follows the course of the Charo River as it tumbles through woodlands and low-lying hills toward the ocean. This is not the Hokkaido of snow-covered peaks or majestic, sweeping landscapes. But it is ideal pastureland. And that is why, in 1987, Koji Muto moved here to set up Charo Sheep Farm.