Eel Consumption Sparks Debate as Populations Decline
At an eel restaurant near Tokyo, four friends gather to enjoy a celebrated Japanese delicacy that has become the focus of an intense international discussion due to declining populations. Eels, a staple in Japan, are now classified as endangered and will be discussed at an important global forum on wildlife trade regulations beginning in Uzbekistan on Monday.
“It’s a luxury dish we indulge in to mark special occasions,” said Yukiko Takahashi, a 52-year-old saleswoman. “Today, we came here to uplift our spirits.”
Japan is firmly against a proposal from the European Union, along with Panama and Honduras, to list all 17 species of eels globally under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). This listing would impose stricter trading regulations on protected wildlife.
East Asia accounts for up to 85% of global eel consumption, with Japan importing nearly three-quarters of the 61,000 tonnes consumed last year. The decline in eel populations worldwide has been attributed mainly to human activities, including water pollution, habitat destruction, hydroelectric dams, and fishing practices.
Estimating eel populations remains challenging due to their complex life cycle. The Japanese eel spawns west of the Mariana Islands, far from Japan’s coast. Its larvae metamorphose into glass eels as they approach shore and subsequently live in freshwater for 5 to 15 years before returning to spawn.
Both the Japanese and American eels are listed as endangered on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List, while the European eel is considered critically endangered. Known as “unagi” in Japan, eels have been consumed for centuries, typically grilled and served with a soy and rice sauce.
As prices rise dramatically—unaju, a dish featuring eel over rice, now costs 5,250 yen ($34), more than double the price from 15 years ago—diners continue to support this culinary tradition, driven by year-to-year supply fluctuations. Chef Tomoyuki Takashino noted, “Customers understand that it’s a luxury.”
Most eels consumed in Japan come from aquaculture, which depends entirely on the capture or import of glass eels, as they cannot breed in captivity. Glass eel catches in Japan have plummeted to less than 10% of 1960s levels.
“We buy glass eels and raise them in our tanks,” explained Takayuki Hiranuma, president of a high-tech aquaculture farm operating the restaurant. His facility houses approximately 80,000 eels in filtered, 30°C water, where their weight can increase a thousandfold within ten months before they are sold or prepared on-site.
If the eel species are listed under Appendix II of CITES, as proposed in Uzbekistan, trade would become more strictly regulated, necessitating export permits from origin countries. “This is a significant concern for us,” Hiranuma stated.
Japan asserts it has instituted fishing quotas and farming permits, citing a study from the Tokyo University of Marine Science and Technology stating that the Japanese eel population has tripled in East Asia since 1990. Tetsuya Kawashima from the Japanese Fisheries Agency added that Japan is working with China, South Korea, and Taiwan to manage glass eel quantities better.
Conversely, Andrew Kerr of the Sustainable Eel Group contends that current studies overlook the rampant trafficking of eels, which he calls “the greatest wildlife crime” globally. The complexity of eel species often leads to misidentification, facilitating trafficking.
Asian supply has historically depended on illegal glass eel smuggling from the EU, which banned such exports in 2010. Europol estimates that around 100 tonnes of glass eels transit annually. With increased enforcement against illegal supply chains, supply from Europe has diminished, leading to rising shipments from the Caribbean, which pose a new threat to those eel populations.
“It’s not merely about their imminent risk of extinction; it’s about establishing a global framework for eel trade,” Kerr emphasized.
Special Analysis by Omanet | Navigate Oman’s Market
The ongoing debate over the sustainability of eel fishing poses both challenges and opportunities for businesses in Oman, particularly in the seafood sector. Stricter regulations on global eel trade may lead to increased costs and supply shortages, creating opportunities for local aquaculture initiatives that prioritize sustainability. Smart investors should consider investing in innovative aquaculture technologies to capture market demand while contributing to environmental conservation efforts.
AloJapan.com