Hakuba Valley, Japan
Hakuba Valley is located in Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is just three hours from Tokyo by bullet train.The valley is nestled high in the Japanese Alps and enjoys some of the best powder in the country—it even hosted the Winter Olympics in 1998.There are over 10 ski resorts, with over 200 runs collectively, so there’s something for every level of skier and snowboarder.Hakuba Valley is peppered with onsens, so you can hop into a hot spring as soon as you get off the slopes.Nagano is also the home of Japan’s famous snow monkeys—the best place to see them is in nearby Nozawaonsen.
Yes, the rumors are true. There is still a place on Earth where you can pay less than $100 for a day pass and enjoy some of the best aprés-ski meals on the planet. All you need to do is book a plane ticket to Japan.
Japan’s legendary powder is no secret, and the country has so far hosted two Winter Olympics: one in Sapporo, Hokkaido, in 1972, and the other in 1998 in Nagano Prefecture’s Hakuba Valley. Hokkaido is perhaps the most famous of the two; Hakuba Valley seems to fly under most international travelers’ radars, but it’s only three hours away by bullet train and bus from Tokyo. The area enjoys some of the best powder in Japan, thanks to its proximity to the Sea of Japan and its location within the Japanese Alps.
“This internationally renowned resort town is known for its wide variety of resorts catering to all skill levels, from beginners to experts,” says Yu Yamagishi, the associate section chief of international tourism promotion at the tourism and sports department at the Nagano prefectural government. “The stunning views of the Japanese Alps and vibrant après-ski scene make Hakuba a favorite for visitors seeking both adventure and relaxation.”
With 10 ski resorts in the area, there’s truly something for everyone in Hakuba Valley, from thrill seekers who want hair-raising black diamond runs, to beginners (like myself) who are interested in bunny hills with scenic views. Best of all, no matter where you go, you’ll be treated to a taste of rural Japan that most travelers who stick to the Golden Route rarely get to see—that means delightful mom-and-pop shops and warm hospitality aplenty.
And if we’re talking pure numbers here, it may actually be cheaper for some U.S.-based skiers to travel all the way to Hakuba Valley to play in the snow than it would be to fly to popular ski resorts like Vail where ski passes can run for more than $300 per day. But, dollars aside, if there’s a better winter-related feeling than coming in from the cold to a piping hot bowl of ramen and a warm cup of tea, I have yet to find it.
Here’s what you need to know before planning a ski trip to Japan’s Hakuba Valley.
Skiing and Snowboarding
A skier on top of a run in Hakuba Valley.
Hakuba Valley
There are over 2,300 acres of skiable terrain in the Hakuba Valley, with more than 200 runs that are serviced by more than 90 lifts and gondolas. Similar to the American system, there are just three categories of ski runs in Japan: beginner, intermediate, and expert.
Best Beginner Runs: You’ll find some of the most accommodating terrain for beginners at Tsugaike Kogen Mountain Resort, which is known for its wide, gentle greens. However, there are also tree runs for those interested in a challenge.
Best Intermediate Runs: For skiers who would like to expand their skill set, head to Hakuba 47, known for its half-pipes and rails. Conveniently, Hakuba 47 is also connected to Goryu Ski Resort, giving you access to even more terrain.
Best Expert Runs: Happo-One Ski Resort is the largest and arguably most popular resort in the valley. It made its claim to fame as the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. The resort has 5,581 feet of vertical drop and a variety of ski runs, making this a good choice for skiers looking to test their limits.
Where to Stay
The reception area at Evo Hotel.
Evo Hotel Hakuba
Evo Hotel Hakuba
For those seeking a stay with a bit of hip flair, head to Evo Hotel Hakuba, located near Happo-One Resort. There are 27 rooms here, ranging from a snug single room to the spacious “family” room, which can accommodate up to four people. The resort has an onsen on its top floor and is also conveniently located next to an inter-resort bus stop, making it easy to reach any of the 10 resorts in the Hakuba Valley.
Courtyard by Marriott Hakuba
What’s one of the best things about ski resorts in Nagano Prefecture? The area is peppered with bubbling hot springs, meaning that you can hop off a ski run and directly into a warm soaking tub. This petite Courtyard by Marriott has just 72 rooms and is conveniently located less than three miles from Hakuba Station. Guests can enjoy sleek, minimalist rooms, a 24-hour fitness center, an on-site restaurant specializing in Cantonese cuisine, and indoor and outdoor onsen.
The Happo HHG
The Happo HHG opened in 2022 and is one of the newer hotel options in the Hakuba Valley area. It’s less than a 10-minute walk from Happo-One Resort, and if you didn’t bring your own gear, you can coordinate ski rentals with the hotel prior to your arrival. There are just 30 rooms on the property, and there’s also a Finnish-style sauna as well as an onsen.
Where to Eat
A table filled with dishes served at Tori Co.
Hakuba Hospitality Group
Tori Co.
For some of the best eats on the mountain, head to Tori Co., an izakaya (a Japanese gastropub) specializing in yakitori and wagyu. If you want something hot to warm your bones, the restaurant also offers chanko nabe (a hearty stew packed with vegetables and a protein of your choice, typically beef) and chicken shabu-shabu (hot pot). If you are staying at The Happo HHG and reserve your seat 24 hours in advance, you can get complimentary shuttle service to and from the restaurant.
Nikusho Nakazawa
If you want to splurge, Nikusho Nakazawa, which specializes in wagyu beef, is the place to go. There is an à la carte menu available, but if you’d like to let the chef guide the evening, opt for a set course, which starts at 13,200 Japanese yen (about $86 USD) per person. There’s also an option to grill your own meat, too, if you’re feeling brave. Private rooms are available for those who’d like to dine in peace and quiet.
Ramen Tottsuan
This is one of the most popular ramen spots in Hakkuba Valley, and there may be a bit of a line in the winter. However, the wait is worth it. The shop has a range of ramen types on the menu, from the clear, salt-based shio broth to the thick, flavor-packed miso ramen. There are also small bites like karaage (Japanese fried chicken) and gyoza available.
Where to Après-ski
The exterior of Blizzard at night.
Hakuba Hospitality Group
The Clubhouse Café & Bar by HHG
The Clubhouse is located on-site at The Happo HHG. It’s a popular place for guests to grab a quick bite to eat in the morning before hitting the slopes, but it doubles as a buzzy sports bar by night. Creative cocktails, Australian-inspired bites, and live music make this a lively hangout spot in the Hakuba area.
Blizzard
Yes, there’s nothing quite like indulging in some of the best Japanese food on the planet after a long day out in the snow. But sometimes, only a pizza will do. You can grab a wood-fired slice of ‘za, pasta, and other classic Italian dishes at Blizzard, which is arguably one of the trendiest spots in the valley.
Hakuba Tap Room
Much like many mountain towns in the U.S., Hakuba Valley is known for its craft beer scene. There are 10 craft beers on tap at Hakuba Tap Room, along with classic bar food such as burgers, fish and chips, and chili.
Off-mountain Activities
Snow Monkeys in a hot spring at Nozawaonsen.
Logan Welsh/Getty Images
Visit Nozawaonsen.
There are many great small towns in Nagano Prefecture, but one of the most popular is Nozawaonsen. Part of that popularity is primarily due to its famed snow monkeys, which you can see at Jigokudani Monkey Park. And as you probably gathered from the name, this little mountain town is also well-known for its onsens, and there are no less than 13 free hot springs here, some of which date back to the Edo Period. Just keep in mind that if you have any tattoos, you will need to cover them up before entering. Nozawaonsen is also a popular ski destination, with a healthy mix of beginner, intermediate, and expert runs.
Play in the snow.
Hakuba Valley really does have some of the best powder in Japan, but you don’t need to be a skier or snowboarder to enjoy it.
“Nagano’s winter landscape is not just for skiers,” says Yamagishi. “Whether you’re snowshoeing through serene forests, exploring the mountains on a snowmobile, skating under the stars, or trying out snowcat tours and family-friendly activities like snow rafting and sledding, there’s plenty to do.”
But if you really want to take it easy, there are a ton of options in the area.
“Enjoy the snowy scenery at Mountain Harbor, located in Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort,” says Kyosuke Mizoguchi, the general manager at Kai Alps. “There is also an on-site cafe called The City Bakery, where you can relax and spend time at the café.”
Taste Nagano’s famous apples in Iiyama City.
Every prefecture in Japan is known for a certain kind of agricultural product, and Nagano Prefecture is famous for apples. If you come earlier in the season, Yamagishi recommends heading to NTA Farm in Iiyama City, about two hours by car from Hakuba—you can pick your own apples directly from trees here. However, if you come during the winter, be sure to have a little apple dessert before you leave.
“Many local cafes and bakeries serve apple pies, apple cakes, and other pastries made from Nagano-grown apples,” says Yamagishi. “Additionally, farms often offer apple-flavored soft serve and apple juice, which are refreshing treats, particularly after a day of sightseeing.”
How to Ride
A cable car over a ski slop in Hakuba.
CHUNYIP WONG/Getty Images
All 10 resorts in the Hakuba Valley—Jigatake Snow Resort, Kashimayari Snow Resort, White Resort Hakuba Sanosaka, Able Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort, Hakuba 47, Happo-one Snow Resort, Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field, Tsugaike Mountain Resort, Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort, and Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort—are a part of the Epic Pass network. Currently, an Epic Pass for the 2025 year costs $1,121 per person. However, even if you don’t have an Epic Pass, skiing in Hakuba Valley is quite affordable. A single-day lift pass starts at 10,400 Japanese yen (about $68 USD) for adults, and 6,000 Japanese yen (about $39 USD) per child.
Rentals
A ski lesson taking place on the slopes.
Hakuba Valley
In general, convenience is usually the name of the game when it comes to travel in Japan, and if you stay in a hotel, the front desk will be able to help you arrange gear rentals or point you in the direction of a shop. Some of the most popular options in the area include Hakuba Central Snowsports, Rhythm Wadano Hakuba, and NBS Japan. Prices will vary depending on what type of gear you rent and for how long, but you can expect to pay about 5,500 Japanese yen (about $36 USD) for a day of ski rentals. Sometimes, if you rent directly from your hotel, there will be a place on the property where you can return your gear.
However, if you’re adamant about using your own gear, Japan is arguably one of the most convenient destinations to travel with your own equipment. You can use a delivery service like Yamamoto Transport (colloquially called “Black Cat”) to transfer your gear to and from the airport and between hotels—fees are very affordable, and delivery is usually remarkably on time.
Programming
There are 10 ski schools in the Hakuba Valley, but the largest and most well-known is Evergreen International School, with locations in Happo-One, Tsugaike, and Iwatake. There are lessons available for both adults and children, in both group and private lesson formats—instructors are also multilingual. The kids are divided into two sections: the Yeti Club for kiddos ages 3 to 6 and the Hakuba Heroes for children ages 7 to 14. Prices start at 12,500 Japanese yen (about $81 USD) for an adult group lesson and 15,000 Japanese yen (about $97 USD) for children.
When to Go
A scenic view of snowy mountains in Hakuba, Japan.
CHUNYIP WONG/Getty Images
Depending on weather and snow conditions, the ski season in Hakuba Valley runs roughly from early December through early May, though it has been known to start in November during particularly cold years. Peak season spans January and February, while March (considered shoulder season) sees smaller crowds but great ski conditions. You will likely see many other international travelers around Christmas (Hakuba Valley is popular among Australian guests, for example), so if you plan to take a holiday break around this time, book well in advance. You will want to avoid visiting around the New Year, which is a major holiday in Japan—many businesses and restaurants will likely be closed. Similarly, if the snow lasts until early May, you will want to avoid going to Hakuba Valley during Golden Week, a period of consecutive Japanese holidays. This is often the country’s busiest travel time.
AloJapan.com