3 Days Discovering Japan’s Seto Inland Sea

I’ve always been a fan of slow travel off 
the beaten path compared to trips in the big cities and when I heard that I’ll 
be coming back to Japan’s Inland Sea, well you can say that I jumped on that 
shinkansen faster than you can say shinkansen. The last time I explored cute coastal towns 
on foot and by bicycle, but this time I’ll be letting the ferries and buses do their work as I 
hop between the islands. As a big transport fan, I’m really excited for this trip so let’s get into 
three days discovering Japan’s Seto Inland Sea. First things first, a simple overview 
of my trip in the Setouchi Region. On day one, I’ll be stopping at Himeji for 
the day – because I can’t miss Japan’s best castle before moving onto Okayama and 
staying there. The next day, I’ll take the ferry to Shodoshima, the second largest island 
in the Seto Inland Sea. Then on the last day, I’ll spend half the day there and then 
go to Ogijima, an island off Takamastu. If you’re wondering which rail pass could 
work for you, the Setouchi Area Pass covers the bullet train and most local buses 
and ferries on this route. You get seven consecutive days of unlimited travel in the 
Setouchi region. We have a video about this pass so check that out for more details. I’m only travelling for three days but I hope it gives some inspiration for what you can do 
in the area on a longer trip with the pass. That, over there, is Himeji Castle 
and she’s beautiful even from here. I don’t think I’ll get lost, as long as 
I keep my eyes on the castle. Himeji is best-known for its castle and 
mountain temple complex and you can’t go there without seeing them. Let’s start with the castle. It’s Japan’s best surviving castle from 
the feudal period and is also known as white heron castle for its elegant, white 
appearance like a bird spreading its wings. These are called shachi and they’re typically 
found on the roofs of castles. Now these two over here they’re actual size replicas of the 
ones you can see on Himeji Castle behind me. As we get closer to the castle, you can start 
to see why it’s one of Japan’s most famous. The main keep complex isn’t just one tower 
like many castles in Japan but actually one main keep and three smaller keeps. Also, 
all of its secondary walls still remain, adding to its incredibly complex 
– and beautiful – appearance. I’m inside the main keep, and did you 
know feudal lords did not typically live inside these keeps, but instead 
in castle palaces just outside. So, what was the purpose of building 
such a tower if not to live in? Well, castle keeps were meant to be symbols 
of power and the last line of defence. Next to the main keep is the Kesho Yagura that 
was built for the princess of the castle and her ladies-in-waiting. And inside you can see 
some rooms and displays related to the princess. The other major sightseeing attraction in Himeji 
is Shoshazan Engyoji, a mountain temple complex outside the city center. You can hike up the 
mountain, but most people take the ropeway. Pilgrims and visitors alike 
have been going to Engyoji since it was founded over a thousand years ago. It takes about a couple of hours to 
explore the grounds of the mountain temple, and I would recommend wearing good walking shoes. This information board says that you can see 
Himeji Castle where I was this morning from here. It’s dead centre where I’m pointing but you 
probably need a zoom lens camera to see it better. The Maniden is the main 
worship building in Engyoji. The original building was here for 
almost a thousand years before it was destroyed in a fire, and this 
is a reconstruction from 1933. That’s the Maniden behind me and doesn’t it 
remind you of the Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto? Another highlight at Engyoji is the set of three 
massive halls about five minutes from the Maniden. They’re known as the Mitsu-no-do, 
and they’re where the monks trained and lived. If you’ve watched the movie The Last 
Samurai, then the Mitsunodo may look familiar to you because it was one of the 
filming locations in the movie. Now let me be Raina “Tom Cruise” Ong and give you 
an extended director’s cut of that scene. And now, I follow my journey 
towards the setting sun and head to Okayama. Cassie spent some time 
in Okayama the last time she was here, and you can check out her video in the 
link below for some travel inspiration in and around the city. As for me, I’ll be 
off to explore some islands from tomorrow. I’m looking forward to today, as I get 
to take a ferry in Japan. Now aside from the short ferry between Hiroshima and 
Miyajima a bit further west of here, how often does a traveler get to take 
one? Now to get to the ferry terminal, I’ll be taking a bus from Okayama 
Station so I’ll see you on the boat. It’s possible to explore Shodoshima by 
public bus, but since I only have a day or so, I’ve gone with a rental car to maximise my 
time on the island. My next stop, Olive Park. Shodoshima’s climate is similar to the 
Mediterranean, which makes it good for growing olives. Here at the spacious Olive Park, you can see and experience all things olive 
related and feel like you’re not in Japan. This olive tree over here was planted 
over a century ago in 1908. It thrived, and the success of growing olives – of course 
not without trial and error – made Shodoshima the birthplace of growing olives in Japan. The island 
is also the top producer of olives in the country. Shodoshima was the filming location for the live 
action movie version of Kiki’s delivery service, and Olive Park is a popular location 
where visitors can recreate scenes from the movie by the sea, and 
in this case the Seto Inland Sea. To help jog everyone’s memory, I’ve 
tried my best to look the part, I’ve borrowed a broomstick and I’m gonna recreate 
a flying scene. That’s right, I am going to fly. I’m back in the car and this time, let’s go 
on a scenic drive on the Shodoshima Skyline, a 10 kilometer stretch of road that 
traverses close to the island’s tallest peak. Wow, look at that! Wow! Kankakei Gorge is located roughly in the middle 
of Shodoshima, and it is one of the three most unique rocky sceneries in Japan. The other two are 
Yabakei Valley in Oita and Mount Myogi in Gunma. There are a few ways you can explore the 
gorge. You can hike or take a ropeway to the upper section or those with a car, like 
me, can also drive to the top of the gorge. While the foliage is nice and green 
in the warmer months, come fall, Kankakei becomes an excellent autumn 
color viewing spot in the Setouchi region. There are a few spots on the 
island to see the sunset, and my accommodation for tonight is one of 
them. I can see the sunset from my room, but I’m feeling classy today with my 
glass of sparkling wine by the lounge. One scenic view on Shodoshima is the terraced 
rice fields in the island’s interior. The literal translation of Nakayama 
Senmaida means interior mountain thousand rice fields. But in reality, there 
are about 800 rice fields of varying sizes. Now it’s so nice to walk through here, 
you get to hear the sound of the water, the insects, as well as smell the air which 
is filled with the sweet fragrance of rice. I’ll be heading back to the ferry 
terminal in a couple of hours, but before that there is still time to 
check out one more sightseeing spot. This sandbar that I just walked across 
connects the mainland to this island and it’s known as Angel Road because 
it only appears when the tide is low. From Shodoshima, I get on the 
ferry and head to Ogijima. That’s Ogijima village over there and 
doesn’t it look cute? I’ve heard the streets are like a maze, and I’m 
looking forward to exploring it. Ogijima is on my radar thanks to the Setouchi Art 
Festival, otherwise I wouldn’t have known about it nor considered visiting. And, it is still worth 
going outside of the festival period to just walk around the village, take in the island vibes 
and see some permanent artworks like these. It really is like a maze but every turn is a prize. If there’s a lighthouse, you know I’m 
gonna be there and the walk here was definitely worth it for me because 
I get to see the lighthouse together with some of the islands in the Seto 
Inland Sea like Naoshima over there. It’s time for me to return to Takamatsu from 
where my journey continues. Thanks for joining me on this 3-day trip. Let us know in the comments 
where else would you go and what would you see?

Read more about the Seto Inland Sea: https://www.japan-guide.com/ad/setouchi-travel-in-himeji-shodoshima-ogijima/

Quaint islands, Japan’s best castle and beautiful coastal views — join us as we explore the often overlooked area of the Seto Inland Sea.

This video was made in collaboration with JR West.

*Video Credits*
Host: Raina Ong
Videographer: Aimee Gardner
Produced by: Stefan Schauwecker
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*Chapters*
0:00 Intro
0:40 Trip itinerary
1:34 Himeji Castle
3:52 Mount Shosha Engyoji Temple
6:09 Overnight in Okayama
6:28 Traveling to Shodoshima
7:10 Shodoshima Olive Park
8:18 Shodoshima Skyline
8:57 Kankakei Gorge
9:36 Resort Hotel Olivean Shodoshima
10:16 Nakayama Terraced Rice Field
11:14 Angel Road
11:50 Traveling to Ogijima
12:30 Ogijima
14:36 Outro

18 Comments

  1. Japan's inland sea is my favorite region to visit and travel through, its just such a vibe. And the oysters are so good lmao

  2. I went to Hiroshima and Miyajima this week. Went out of my way to see the Akashi Kaikyo bridge too. What an engineering marvel. 2 weeks in Japan is going by quick. I wish I was born a Japanese.

  3. Love the longer format videos! Coincidentally, I've been watching a few Shodoshima videos recently and you've gone on to make one too! It's definitely on my list now.

    You should visit Naoshima too. I had a great day cycling round the island exploring the art installations❤

  4. Loved it. Thank You. Loved the clarity of your video. Made the whole experience more "Breathtaking".

  5. Thanks, Raina. This video brings back lots of memories. I am surprised you did not encounter massive crowds, especially at Himeji Castle and Shoshazan (Engyoji).

  6. I love the Seto Inland Sea, I did the Shimanami Kaido long time ago and recently I went to Matsuyama, Takamatsu and Ogishima and Naoshima, it was a great experience

  7. Seto Nai Kai !! In 1973 both the Shikoku and the Honshu side were garbage dumps! I do hope it has changed. The sea and islands were utsukushii, gorgeous !

  8. Seto sea has so many gems, but the best I had was the trip on Iyonada Monogatari. Would be nice that you cover it.

  9. Great video, arigato gozaimasu Raina ! We have been to Okayama and loved the black castle and the wonderful korakuen garden there. And to Takamatsu and Naoshima, which also both enjoyed a lot, for different reasons. On one of our next trips to Japan, I would like to spend time on Shodoshima (we will need more time than you, because we have to rely on public transport), and after watching your video also on Ogijima. And one day, I also really want to see the beautiful castle in Himeji live, and not only from videos or pictures 🙂.