The past few years have seen independent watchmakers—microbrands—flourish across Europe and beyond. Now the conversation in watch circles is shifting to Japan. Brands such as Naoya Hida & Co., Kikuchi Nakagawa, Kurono Tokyo (all founded in 2018-19) and Otsuka Lotec are making waves abroad with their mix of refinement, restraint, and obsessive craft. Hida’s NH Type 6A, for instance, features an engraved sterling-silver dial and a perpetual calendar designed with Richard Habring, while Kikuchi Nakagawa’s Murakumo case is finished using black polishing—usually reserved for movement parts. As Hida says: “The power of watchmaking lies in small details, perfectly honed.” With short runs and long waiting lists, Japan’s New Wave is writing the next big story in fine watchmaking. Check out five of our favorite pieces from these exciting brands below.

NH Type 6A

at naoyahidawatch.com

NH Type 3B-3

at naoyahidawatch.com

Murakumo

at kikuchi-nakagawa

Grand Jubilee Calendar

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at kuronotokyo.com

Cal. SSGT

at otsuka-lotec

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AloJapan.com