Du Japon à la Sicile : voyage aux sources des agrumes rares 🍋🌿 | Trésors du Patrimoine
Yuzu, Buddha’s hand, finger lime…
the Lemon family is numerous and some of its members present an image
far removed from our classic yellow lemons. In the highlands of southern Japan,
yuzu cultivation saved a village from oblivion. In France, in the Pyrénées-Orientales,
more than a thousand varieties of citrus fruits are cultivated, most of which are little known.
And in Sicily, it is fruits bursting with sunshine and nourished by the fertile lands of Etna that
come to delight the finest tables in the country. We are heading to the
Kii Peninsula in Japan, located east of Osaka, in Wakayama Prefecture.
The region has 600 km of coastline facing the Pacific, but remains
mostly mountainous. At the southern tip of the peninsula, Kozagawa
is our starting point for heading into the mountains and forests of the center.
The Kii Mountain Range covers a good part of this region of Japan. Its
volcanic rock has sculpted the landscape. From the ocean, streams wind
through the mountain. The Koza River gives way here to the Hirai which
crosses the village of the same name. The village has barely a hundred
inhabitants. Located at the bottom of a valley, it is inhabited mainly by elderly people, the younger ones having migrated to
the cities to find work. Yet, sixty
years ago, this whole valley was still very lively. Logging provided a
livelihood for several thousand people. Japanese cedar was then highly sought after,
before the timber trade collapsed. Considering the fertility of the soil and the
rather balanced climatic conditions of their valley, the village elders then decided
to plant Yuzu lemon trees. This variety of lemon was imported from China over
a thousand years ago and is very popular in Japan. It is this yellow gold that has kept
this village alive, whose economy is today entirely dedicated to this citrus fruit.
The Hirai Yuzu lemon has a lot of seeds, unlike
those grown in the south of France. It also contains a lot of juice. But it is
especially distinguished by its very specific aroma, particularly prized by gourmets.
Between the mountain and the forest, the plots dedicated to growing lemons
are of modest size. The Konishi family’s house is nestled behind
the hill overlooking the village. On this Sunday in November, Sadao Konishi can
count on his daughter and son-in-law from the city to help him harvest the fruits.
“I am satisfied with the quality of what we harvest this year, it is good,
on the other hand we have less volume, especially if we compare it to what we had
last year…. But the Yuzu are very big. They use telescopic pruning shears
which hold the fruit to prevent it from
falling to the ground and getting damaged. Yuzu cultivation remains a craft in Hirai
which does not allow one to make a living from it all year round. Interview continued: “I have another job on the
side otherwise I wouldn’t be able to get by, but if I had more time I
could take better care of my fields…. I think it would be worth it, but on the other
hand I am all alone, I only have help during the harvest period, the rest of the
time my children and my grandchildren are busy with their own activities. Wearing
protective gear and leather gloves is essential, the
branches are bristling with thorns. All leaves
and twigs should be removed before delivering the crates to the village cooperative.
The Konishi are taking advantage of the weekend to organize a dinner where Yuzu will
of course be in the spotlight. The mackerel comes from the port of Kozagawa,
about forty minutes away by car. They are generously sprinkled with Yuzu.
The feast also includes kuei, delicious fish found
all around the coast, which will be eaten grilled on the barbecue today.
But what unites the growers more than anything is the village cooperative that
markets and processes the Yuzu. It now supports more than 42 farmers.
“We created this company together, 20 years ago, under the name of the farmers’ society
, it’s the principle of a cooperative. At that time the idea was to
ensure that everyone could live satisfactorily and
flourish around our citrus fruits. It is therefore this objective which brought us together
and pushed us to set up this cooperative. Sake gradually enlivens the conversations
which will continue in a good mood. The day begins under a radiant sun… and to the sound of a curious noise
coming from the village below. The property is owned by
87-year-old Kakiushi Satoshi. To overcome the difference in altitude, he equipped his fields with a monorail. He is a bit of a village legend, a
true yuzu artist. Over the years, he has managed to shape his trees to
facilitate harvesting and protect them from predators, such as deer and fallow deer.
Although he is moving with increasing difficulty, he goes
to his magnificent lemon trees every day. And if his sense of balance has diminished, his pruning shears remain precise.
Yumi came to help him. It’s Monday, his children left for town last night
and he’ll be alone all week. It has rained a lot in the last few
days and the harvest is not waiting. “In this village we are surrounded
by very precious bees, which is why the farmers
here do not use pesticides to protect them.”
” The children of this farmer
often come to help him on Saturdays and Sundays. At the cooperative we also have
volunteers who can free themselves up to come and harvest, especially since
this year we have a good harvest, so we need more hands.”
The future of these yuzu plantations is uncertain. Their sustainability depends on the ability to attract and
support young families in the village. Mr Satoshi’s family tried to
dissuade him from riding his vehicle and climbing trees. But it’s his whole
life, it would be unthinkable to stop him. “During the day we have temperatures
that can be high but the nights are cool and sometimes cold. It is said that
these significant temperature differences have a positive influence on the taste of our Yuzu. »
« The size of the fruits that we will obtain depends on the one hand on the tree itself, the way
in which it has been pruned and on the other hand on the quality of natural fertilizer that will be provided, it is therefore
normal that we have differences in size. » The upper part of Satoshi’s Kakiushi field
is a kind of nursery where he grows his trees according to a
very specific method. It generally takes 10 years from the time a
seed is germinated until the first substantial harvest can be achieved.
For several years, the grower will constrain the growth
of the branches to give them the desired direction. The first objective is to obtain a
flared trunk which will prevent deer and stags from coming to feast on the fruit.
This controlled cultivation also makes it easier to harvest by giving a
horizontal direction to the branches. Another important tip is to graft
young shoots onto Karatachi trunks, a Japanese orange tree,
thus gaining several years in the growth and maturity of a tree.
“I planted the little trees there in 2020… that’s three years ago…. they
grew very quickly indeed…. On the other hand, last year’s trees were not as
successful, the flowers fell, the leaves withered, it’s not great. ” ” So yes, I use stakes, I orient the
branches to facilitate picking during harvests, it is better to limit the number
of main branches, but on these trees I saw that the fruits were late.
But what worries Mr. Sayoshi the most are his children who apparently have no
desire to take over the farm. The cooperative is located in the center of the village.
Right now it’s running at full capacity. Each family’s harvest is sorted here.
Depending on the appearance and quality of the fruits, they can be sold as is, made into
juice, or transformed into more sophisticated products. Each person is paid according
to their production, but at a price higher than what is generally practiced in the country.
Yuzus contain a lot of juice. This is also the main
outlet for the cooperative. Despite relative automation,
manual assistance is essential to extract the juice.
Under the press, a person separates the pulp from the skin. Every part of the
fruit will be used, for example to create zests or marmalades. Although sought after
by the cosmetics industry, the seeds are no longer used at the moment.
The juice is packaged without additives for rapid shipment to all
major restaurants in Japan. The zest is cut by hand by a team
who will carefully remove any stained or damaged skins. The most beautiful pieces will
enhance different yuzu-based recipes. “Until now, the skin
of the Yuzu was used to make marmalades, lemon tea or jam….
We have created new products, for example we dry the yuzu zest and
then reduce it to powder to mix it with other spices. It is a preparation
that can be used for curry or as a complement to salt to spice up certain dishes. »
From this remote valley floor with winding access roads,
delivery also had to be organized. A successful bet that allows
almost all families to make their harvests profitable. “We only know our Yuzu, but
the first time we sent our products to a reseller, our customer
told us that he was struck by the intensity of the fragrance that emanates from our Yuzu by
simply opening the refrigerator door. There are many components in the Yuzu which
give it a great freshness and visibly the Yuzu of our village is very different
from that of other yuzu, it is very fresh. Fortunately, some families have
chosen to return to the valley, like that of Mariko Nakata. The young
woman kept a job in town and took a few days off to
harvest with her mother. Today, she has accelerated her
harvesting pace because in a few days the deadline set by the cooperative to
guarantee a premium price will have passed. But beware of the thorns which can be formidable…
“The thorns are very sharp, if you pick the Yuzu with your bare hands without
protection you can hurt yourself badly, we usually wear gloves,
sometimes I don’t wear them I have to be careful. It is a
difficult task and we must protect ourselves. She too is concerned about
the sustainability of yuzu in the village. “The vast majority of
Yuzu producers are getting older and they find few people to take over. Some
plantations therefore remain abandoned, and sometimes people from
other regions take over. “ We do not use pesticides
, only fertilizers, which are made up of chicken droppings. When we talk about beautiful Yuzu, what matters to us
is that they are juicy. So it’s true that if we focus
on the question of appearance, they would probably be more beautiful if
we used pesticides, but as far as our organic Yuzu are concerned, the
most important point is that they are juicy. Does organic also influence the
taste, I don’t know. » With her mother, they only took a short
break in the morning. The pace is fast and tiring. They hope to be able to
finish harvesting in a few days. Hirai Yuzu is renowned for its
strong fragrance and high quality. Yumi and all the members of the cooperative work tirelessly
to cultivate this exceptional lemon. How long will they be able to
maintain this fragile balance, find young families who
want to embark on the adventure and thus prolong the beautiful
history of Yuzu in this valley? We now leave for the
Pyrénées-Orientales in the south of France, in the land of Conflent, a group of valleys
which “confluence” towards the bed dug by the Têt. Facing Canigou, the highest peak in the
eastern part of the Pyrenees, this region is one of the sunniest in France.
The old village of Eus overlooks numerous farms. This ancient
fortress has preserved an imposing church dating from the 18th century, Saint-Vincent,
built on an old ruined castle. Like the nearby village of Comes, the first
traces of settlement date back to the 9th century. The inhabitants were quick to take advantage of
the remarkable climate and the exceptional geographical location of the place.
In 1982, local boy Michel Bachès transformed his father’s old farm
into a nursery. With his wife Bénédicte, they gradually developed a passion
for citrus fruits. Their name then becomes an essential reference for starred restaurants.
About 6 years ago, Perrine and Etienne Schaller, two agricultural engineers, embarked
on the adventure by taking over the farm. It ‘s January, the
peak lemon season. It froze last night, which worries
Etienne Schaller. Despite the protection of the greenhouse, he fears possible damage.
“But the problem here is that it’s winter. In the morning, when it’s -8, it’s
like this. If we didn’t have their greenhouses, we would have lost all their crops. It’s a bit of a
risk when you’re in a somewhat borderline area like that. On the other hand, it allows us to have a
very intense coloring of the fruits. This is the cold that activates the small pigments in the
fruit’s skin, called lycopene and anthocyanins, which make the fruit color. ”
In summer, we open the tunnels at the top and bottom, but it’s really hot inside. But it does
n’t bother them too much because they’re tropical trees, citrus trees, so they like it
warm, not too hot, hot and humid. In a greenhouse, we are constrained by
the size of the greenhouse, whereas outdoors, a tree is less vigorous
, and therefore produces more flowers and fruit.
Among the most sought-after lemons at the moment, Buddha’s hands are the star.
It’s a fruit that comes from China, “O sheu” we say in Chinese, I don’t know if I
pronounce it correctly, but it’s a fruit that has a real, a real symbolism in China, because we
often find it as an offering in temples, etc. People arrange them like that to decorate ”
I look at the ones that are very ripe, like those that are pretty, that don’t have too many
defects, things like that for example, another one over there had spiders so
it’s not very pretty, which is pretty but maybe not easy to reach right there,.
” Then the scent that it gives off. When we pick them
afterwards, sometimes we have chefs. For example, Jean-Michel Carrette in Tournus, he likes it
when they are big and closed. This allows you to make slices like that, and to
make ravioli with Buddha’s hand, cut very thin because there is no
juice at all. inside, you have to imagine when you cut it in two, there is no
juice at all, it is only albedo, white, “we are talking about terroir, so And in the
word terroir, there is the soil, there is the climate, there is man who intervenes and it is a
whole process between, between, between these different participants which makes there a
terroir, it is true that in the word terroir, there is the word earth, but it is not only the
soil which acts, it is one of the criteria of the matrix …. with each piece, they are all
different. Are they unique pieces? A little, it is good. There is still. There is
still a kind of satisfaction each time. to pick these fruits there, it is magnificent
you see when you have things like that, full of colors of different shapes.
So Citrus fruits are all native to Southeast Asia, Asia, China,
Vietnam, etc. and it is the man who took citrus fruits in his suitcases during
his travels around the planet and who makes it so that there are new varieties that are created.
“I picked the fruits, I’m going to check them all one by one… that they have no
defects… that’s the one from earlier, we recognize them, it’s funny because we
remember, afterwards, when we spot them, This one for example I’m going to put it
aside, it’s a little too orange … we start again for the
Buddha’s hands the season is roughly between November and
January, what? And if the terroir that there is here means that we have Buddha’s hands
that are very little bitter often, it’s something that can be bitter in other
conditions, very little bitter…it’s a fruit that has a lot of essential oils that
is very loaded with essential oil. So one of the keys to freshness is that
it must leave immediately and the next day, the fruits must be on all the tables “which means that we have a product that the chefs
really look for, here often, it’s already the variety and then the terroir, with the
temperature differences between morning and afternoon, we have fruits that will suddenly color a lot
and have an enormous aromatic intensity. “All the lemons, all the citrus fruits that we have here,
we have slightly different pruning methods. For example, citrons
like a slightly stronger pruning, others don’t like very strong pruning
because the branches need to be weeping to be able to bear fruit.
“So it’s like Buddha’s hand, the citron, you break it, you take it
in your hand like this and there you have it, the citron, it’s also from Asia,
and it’s a bit like the ancestor of the lemon, in fact. Because inside there is no juice at all, there
is no juice at all or very little. But really what is consumed in the citron
is its zest and its zest with which we make confit or things like that.
And 200 years ago, citron made Corsica’s fortune, for example, then, little
by little, cultivation stopped. Now, there is a little citron being produced in
Corsica again. But what is in quotation marks stop the citron, kill the citron in Corsica, is
the lemon. It is the advent of the lemon which originates from the Mediterranean basin.
“There, it’s really hard, hard, a bit like coconut, if you taste it with your nose
it’s slightly peppery at the level of the bark, lemony too, and you hear this noise there
it’s crunchy like apple or coconut, it’s very fresh.
The other star of the best tables is the finger lime, completely atypical
compared to other varieties. Its pulp, composed of small pink pearls that burst with flavor
in the mouth, makes it an expensive and sought-after fruit. In greenhouses where several varieties
coexist, it is not easy to find. “So this is covered in thorns, watch out
for the thorns… watch out for your fingers. The finger lime is a family of citrus fruits that
originates from Australia, unlike other citrus fruits that originate
from Asia and there, what makes its name is what makes its success, these small vesicles there, which
are much firmer than in a classic lemon, it makes a kind of
natural spurification in fact, it crunches under the tooth after Entering the neighboring greenhouse, we
immediately smell the presence of Yuzu, its perfume is so intense.
“These are the first trees, these are the first trees that were planted in
Europe. Here, these are the oldest Yuzu trees planted in Europe, around thirty years old.
“It’s true that yuzu is a citrus fruit; we hear its name more and more there, in
France and in Europe, it’s a citrus fruit that comes from Japan. If you don’t know it like
that, you think it’s a lemon. Finally, it is sour and tastes like lemon. But in
fact, no, not at all, it has, it really has its own taste, so some will say it’s a
bit like mandarin, grapefruit, etc., but it’s really difficult to put a word
on this taste which is so, so typical and so unique. “The bigger the yuzu,
the more exceptional they are. Here we have Yuzu that can weigh up to 240
grams, the biggest one being enormous. “So basically, it’s still a
citrus fruit that was easily put aside, and in fact, as soon as you taste the peel, the zest
and the rind of the fruit, you can’t do without it. “So there we have a smell of uso, so
a bit of vanilla mandarin like that which arrives and which is really very very marked,
very marked, it’s a smell that we don’t forget once we have it in mind, after that, we just
want one thing, it’s to zest the fruit there or to put it in a tagine just like
that, to make a full dish warming up in winter. Yuzu has been used
by pastry chefs for around ten years. There are French pastry chefs who have been using it
in their recipes for more than ten years and we, through a range of products that have
finally been transformed, will make this taste available and introduce it to the
general public in a fun and very accessible way. So our domain, we have a part
production of rare citrus fruits, but also and above all a part collection
of citrus fruits, that is to say that on our domain, we have more than 1000 varieties of citrus fruits,
This heritage includes varieties unknown to the general public and represents a real treasure
of biodiversity. Only 150 varieties are marketed to chefs.
Mayer lemons are characterized by their size and smooth skin.
There is also an infinite variety of lime, widely used in cocktails and
pastries in North America. More rare: red lemons.
Or pear lemons, named so because of their shape.
It’s a long-term job. A seed takes years of care
before it turns into a fruit tree. Many potted plants, varieties
that to date are not used in gastronomy. And we keep that
for the biodiversity aspect and also for the side where perhaps these are the citrus fruits of
tomorrow which are there, in our collection and which will certainly come out one day.
“We produce the young plants that we plant ourselves because we can’t find
the plants we’re interested in in stores, and that allows us to better manage our plant stocks
because we have to think about the future, as we don’t know what we’re going to replant
in ten years, for example, if we don’t have the plants in advance, we can’t do it, that’s it.
“They are three or four years old, there are the first fruits, but well, it’s not enough because
it’s not a production that allows you to live off it. A lemon tree takes about
ten or twelve years to really be in production, so there is
fruit a little earlier, but to really produce enough to make a living from it, you need
at the earliest eight years, if not ten or twelve years, it’s more reasonable, especially in organic farming
where we have slower growth. Water has also become a
major element in crop management. It is becoming increasingly rare and its
use is strictly controlled. It’s been two years since it rained in fact,
or very little in the department. Normally, we should be something like 600 mm per
year and we’re not even halfway there, we’re not even halfway there, so it’s quite tight in
terms of water management and so here, we have a system that consumes little water because we
water everything by drip irrigation with tarpaulins on the ground, so we have less evaporation
in the greenhouse, but if we cut off our water, we cut off our life, because water… we
simply can’t grow plants without water. “In winter, it’s true that we need less water,
but in spring, from the moment the new vegetative system is formed,
we have much greater needs, a little less in summer than in June, for
example, when we have high demands for water.” Despite climatic and
environmental constraints, the objective remains to produce very high-quality fruit.
“One of the secrets to achieving excellence, I think, is observation,
it’s really always questioning yourself too, observation,
questioning. Nothing is ever taken for granted, sometimes we think we have understood things
, but in fact, we are completely wrong and it puts everything back on track, and it also makes us humble
because we are far from mastering everything. The fruits picked in the morning are already
packed, ready to be sent to the restaurant kitchens by tomorrow morning.
“The chefs express their satisfaction with the fruits they receive and often
we even receive messages or even directly on the phone, they tell us
what you sent me, it was great, it exploded in the mouth or the aromas, this one,
I had never tasted it, and that makes me happy. Yes, because we take care of it, and that’s
really the return we want to have to continue moving forward and continue wanting to
always offer them something new. Perrine and Etienne’s lemons are
notably sent to Levallois, in the Paris region, to Claire Heitzler. After
working in several Parisian palaces, the pastry chef opened her own workshop. “Today I prepared our citrus flower for you.
It’s a pastry made from a small crispy shortbread and an almond biscuit.
On top there is a mandarin marmalade, Buddha’s hand there is yuzu,
kumquat, a whole mix of citrus fruits, a vanilla mousse with pieces of chestnut and on
top we have arranged a whole little garden of fresh citrus fruits with a Buddha’s hand petal.”
“These are the Buddha’s hands that we received this morning from Perrine and Etienne,
it’s great because these fruits are ultra-fresh and our goal is that as soon as we receive them, we
use them as quickly as possible to preserve this freshness and maximum taste. What
interests me is to have them closed, so when I order them, I specify
that I want them small and closed so that I can cut them into thin slices and
to be able to go almost to the end of the fruit by having my slices very very thin
“so here it is for me it is this form which interests me, this form of flowers, of petal It is a fruit which is very powerful it
has this floral and crunchy side which I find very interesting and I find
that it is a citrus fruit which is not bitter I prepared a sugar syrup and we will
let them poach quietly without it boiling There we can see clearly to what extent they have become
supple and translucent, they hold well Citrus fruits for me it is a
rather exciting playground because already because it is good , it is both acidic and bitter, I like to
have fun with the balance of flavors, that is to say when I have a fruit which is rather
acidic or something which is rather bitter it is to find a combination which is
sweeter then either vanilla which tends to soften or pistachio which it is a
little bit naturally fatty or the almond which is also fatty and which by this roundness
will bring sweetness to the citrus fruits which means that when we taste the whole dessert
finally it makes a perfect balance We are now leaving for the south of Italy,
in Sicily, a land of citrus fruits par excellence. Inhabited for more than 20,000 years, the island attracts
travelers in particular for its sunshine and its very mild Mediterranean climate. These assets,
combined with the presence of Etna, its emblematic volcano, explain the fertility of its soil.
The large agricultural properties that appeared under ancient Rome, the latifundia, had a strong impact on
the economy and human occupation of the island. Today, around Catania, the
island’s second largest city, many of these family farms have disappeared. The reasons:
demographic pressure and the expansion of tourism. Fiumefreddo is somewhat the center of
agricultural activity in the region. This is where the
lemon harvests obtained at the foot of Etna are gathered and then transported. The name of the city comes from
the river that runs through it, fed by the melting snow from the volcano. The town is much livelier in the
summer when tourists flock to it, attracted by the beaches of the Ionian Sea.
A few kilometers from Fiumefreddo, we reach Mr. Carafo’s property
. The farmer has entrusted his 17 hectares to Carmelo Trovato’s team,
in particular for the lemon harvest, which has just begun at the beginning of March.
The fruits are from the Femminello family, which is found mainly on the island.
“We are currently harvesting the first flower, which begins in September
and ends towards the end of March. This lemon tree flowers all
year round, after this first flower, comes the Bianchetto then the Maggiolino
then in summer the Verdelli which will generate a new shorter cycle of fruits
“The Verdello harvest lasts about a month. As soon as the Verdello ends, the first flower starts
again, which is the fruit that lasts the longest, from September to the end of March.
The trees are well laden and experienced pickers are managing
to harvest large volumes. A tree like this can produce
100 to 150 kilos of lemons per year, which by comparison is relatively low
because there are trees in some plantations that can produce 300 to 350 kilos of
lemons per year, but the best fruits are harvested here, between November and March.
The farm is organic, a necessity because one of the important outlets is
the essential oil trade. Water management remains a
major concern for growers. Despite the presence of the volcano that catches the clouds and
generates rain, it rains less and less in autumn and winter. Moreover, in summer,
temperatures are increasingly high. Farmers are forced to use the
drip irrigation system installed at the foot of each tree when the drought becomes too severe.
The morning turns out to be very fruitful. The lemons will be transported directly to
processing plants located further north. Vilfredo Raymo, the director of the Simone
Gatto workshop, followed with some satisfaction the morning’s harvest, which supplies
major perfumers and restaurants. “The Acireale area is famous for its
lemon, it is also known because we are at the foot of the Etna volcano, but it is
especially famous for lemon, also because it manages to generate new blossoms
with lemons in summer that are called Verdelli and it is an area that works well for the
Verdello VRF. The presence of the volcano is a real plus for the quality of the essential oil and the
juice, because the soil is not only rich in minerals, but it is also very fertile due to
the volcanic ash that comes from the volcano. But there is also an interesting microclimate effect
, in the sense that at night the cold air coming from the summit of Etna keeps
these gardens cooler, let’s say that in summer we are spared from those heat peaks
that there are in Sicily and other regions . This way the lemon keeps better, it remains
stronger, the juice is even tastier, it does not rot on the tree and allows us to have
juices or fragrant essential oils of very high quality even in times of the year
like spring and summer when other regions of Sicily are unable to
maintain these qualitative characteristics. In the surrounding markets, lemons
are sold at prices that would make anyone who doesn’t live in Sicily dream. They are
used daily in the kitchen. “Lemon is the second
ingredient in cooking after salt, it is essential to give flavor, bring
acidity, aroma and everything that is necessary to make an ice cream, season a
fish or any dish, to give that aroma and fragrance, to make it unique.”
We are on the north coast of the island, in San Pier Niceto, in Vilfredo Raymo’s company
that he runs with his brothers and sister. The lemons picked in the morning
are transformed depending on their origin, either into juice or essential oil.
“The essential oil of lemon is present in the peel, in the zest or in the
small utricles, to extract it we exert pressure on the peel while
pricking it very lightly. It is nature that created this essential oil to keep
insects away from the fruit tree and preserve it. For our part, we use it in perfumery and
food for its remarkable aroma. All the active ingredient contents
are carefully checked after each extraction series to ensure
good homogeneity of production. “You have to know that we use a ton
of lemons to obtain about four kilos of essential oils, so the essential oil
is an extremely concentrated aroma. A few drops of oil are enough to flavor our
ice creams or desserts. Essential oil is something really powerful”
The juice circuit follows a similar process, lemons will be mechanically pressed.
Here again, everything will be analyzed with precision, before going to the kitchens of
all Italy where it is widely used. This terroir of Acireale is intrinsically
linked to the presence of Etna, which influences both nature and people.
“People’s lives are influenced by this presence and those who live near
a volcano never want to move away from it. They draw energy from it, they have a
close relationship with the volcano and the lemon is one of those fruits that are most positively
affected by the proximity of the volcano. The quality of the Etna lemon
earned it the PGI label in 2022, a guarantee of protection and recognition
for all citrus lovers.
Des vallées oubliées du Japon aux collines ensoleillées de Sicile, en passant par les serres d’exception du sud de la France, ce documentaire vous emmène sur les terres où l’agrumiculture devient un art vivant 🍋🌿 .
Amoureux de la France et du patrimoine, ses trésors n’auront plus de secrets pour vous 👉https://bit.ly/4dnI1h1
🌿 À Kozagawa, petit village perché sur la péninsule de Kii, le yuzu a redonné vie à une communauté vieillissante.
🍊 En France, des passionnés cultivent des variétés rares comme les mains de Bouddha et les citronniers caviar, avec un soin extrême du terroir.
🌋 En Sicile, au pied de l’Etna, les féminellos mûrissent entre cendre volcanique et embruns marins, pour livrer un fruit au parfum inégalé.
De la cueillette à la transformation, de la tradition à l’innovation, ce voyage raconte l’histoire d’un patrimoine agricole menacé, mais préservé par des gestes ancestraux et une passion intacte.
🍽️ Utilisé par les plus grands chefs, le yuzu n’est pas qu’un agrume : c’est une mémoire, un geste, un parfum d’éternité.
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