Nagano Travel Vlog | Exploring Tsumago-juku, Cycling in Atera Valley & Visiting Matsumoto Castle

Nagano Travel Vlog | Exploring Tsumago-juku, Cycling in Atera Valley & Visiting Matsumoto Castle

I’m on my way to Nagiso Station today. It’s about a two-hour, slow and easy train ride. This trip will take me to Tsumago-juku with its preserved Edo-period streets,the beautiful Atera Valley,and finally, my favorite—Matsumoto. Please join me and enjoy this journey together 😊 Tsumago-juku was the first post town in Japan to preserve its old streets. The atmosphere of Edo remains intact and still fascinates many visitors today. From Nagiso Station, it’s about a 15-minute bus ride. Tsumago-juku is one of the post towns along the Nakasendo, which connected Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto. About one kilometer of inns, restaurants, and souvenir shops still line the street, keeping the Edo atmosphere alive. Rows of wooden houses make it feel like stepping back in time. Many of the buildings have been restored or reconstructed based on their original appearance. What surprised me was that there isn’t even a vending machine in sight. Power lines are cleverly hidden, giving the feeling of walking through the Edo period. The town has been preserved thanks to the residents’ promise: “Don’t sell, don’t rent, don’t destroy.” That’s why you can experience the Edo atmosphere so vividly here. The Nakasendō winds through the mountains, full of slopes and passes, so travel was never easy. That’s why post towns were so important for travelers to take a break. It takes about three hours on foot to reach the next post town, Magome-juku. The Nakasendō hike, often called the “Samurai Road,” is still popular today, with many people visiting it along with Tsumago-juku. Now, let’s take a short break. I stopped by a café called Kōjitsu Coffee. I was going to order iced coffee, but I decided to try the recommended affogato instead. Gentle sweetness of soft-serve ice cream meets the bittersweet taste of espresso. Together they balance each other perfectly, and it tastes amazing. It felt like the perfect flavor to cheer me on at the start of my journey. Next, I headed to Wakihonjin Okutani. Inns in post towns were also ranked by status. The Honjin was for feudal lords and officials, the Wakihonjin served as a backup, and ordinary travelers stayed at Hatago. Okutani was once used as a Wakihonjin. Today, it’s designated as an Important Cultural Property, and even Emperor Meiji once visited here. In the main room there’s an irori hearth, and in winter, sunlight streams through the lattice, creating a breathtaking scene. The second floor is a museum displaying the history of Tsumago-juku and the Nakasendō. After learning its history, walking through the town felt different, more vivid. Tsumago’s Honjin can also be toured on weekends, with parts of the original structure preserved and restored. It’s rare to find a Honjin that still remains today. Since they couldn’t take in ordinary travelers and side businesses were forbidden, many Honjin eventually had to close down. Now then, it’s about time for lunch. I went to a restaurant called Fujioto in Tsumago-juku. They’re known for their soba noodles and Shinshu beef steak. Inside was a wide tatami room, a space that instantly made me feel at ease. From my seat I could see the garden, and just gazing at it made me feel truly indulged. I ordered sansai soba, buckwheat noodles topped with wild mountain vegetables. The chilled, firm soba noodles combined with the fragrant mountain vegetables made it wonderfully refreshing. A perfect dish to enjoy in the summer. After the meal, I relaxed while gazing at the garden. The koi in the pond and the carefully tended plants were beautiful, making it the perfect moment to pause during the trip. As I walked through the town, I could hear the gentle sound of water flowing from somewhere. The sound of a stream is truly soothing, isn’t it? The waterway running alongside the post town once played an essential role in people’s daily lives. Today, it adds charm to the scenery and brings peace to visitors. Next, I stopped by a shop called “Tsumago Aburaya.” It’s known for its popular crafts made from Kiso cypress. With so many items lined up, choosing was fun, and I ended up staying longer than I expected. The shopkeeper was friendly and even shared stories about the history of Tsumago. And this building that looks like a traditional townhouse… is actually a post office. Outside, there’s a uniquely shaped mailbox. It has an old-fashioned charm that feels very nostalgic. Inside, there’s a small postal museum, and they even sell Tsumago-juku–exclusive stamps. They make a great souvenir from the trip. Now it’s time for an afternoon snack. A bowl of shaved ice sounds just perfect. I went to a sweets café called “Sabō Ebiyā.” It’s a cozy spot where you can relax on tatami mats while enjoying sweets. I ordered the strawberry milk shaved ice. Its gentle strawberry-and-milk sweetness made me smile without even realizing. There’s nothing better than shaved ice on a hot day. I actually wanted to try their famous chestnut sweets, too… But they’re only available from autumn to winter, so I’ll save that treat for next time. Seeing stones piled up on the roof looks a bit curious, doesn’t it? In fact, it was an old technique to keep wooden roof panels from being blown away. Since this area is surrounded by mountains and not very windy, that alone was enough. On a hill overlooking Tsumago-juku sits Kōtoku-ji Temple. From here, you can see the entire town. The Edo-period townscape blended with the mountain scenery, looking like a scene from a painting. I’ve also visited Magome-juku and Narai-juku, but Tsumago felt especially calm and peaceful as a whole. It felt like I could slowly savor the atmosphere of this historic post town. Here, you’ll also find a regional specialty from the mountain villages: gohei-mochi. If you come to Tsumago, you definitely have to try this. Crispy on the outside and chewy inside… yes, this is the kind of flavor you’ll want again and again! And after something sweet, coffee is always the best companion. I stopped by a café called “Kozuchiya.” It’s a renovated old house with a calm atmosphere, where the natural light streaming in feels so pleasant. I ordered an iced coffee. Its clean bitterness refreshed my whole body after the walk. The light streaming through the lattice filled me with a gentle sense of nostalgia. Now, let’s head to tonight’s inn. On the way, I came across a kōsatsuba, an old notice board site. This was where official announcements and rules were posted during the Edo period. In other words, it was like a community bulletin board for people of that time. Some even carried moral teachings, like urging parents and siblings to support one another, live honestly, and not keep secrets. From today’s perspective, it feels kind of amusing. Seeing historical sites like this preserved makes me feel as if I’ve truly slipped back into the Edo period. And here we are—tonight’s lodging, Oyado Daikichi. It blends seamlessly into the townscape of Tsumago-juku, with an old-fashioned charm. The wooden exterior is so atmospheric and perfectly matches the scenery of the town. Staying here makes you feel like a traveler from long ago, savoring a night on the road. Inside, it was so quiet that the only sound I could hear was my own footsteps. I was shown to a small four-and-a-half mat tatami room. When I slid open the shoji… A lush, green view of nature spread out before me. Old inns were often divided only by paper sliding doors, but this one had walls, making it easier to enjoy some quiet. The moment I sat down, the fatigue of my journey seemed to melt away. I wonder if travelers long ago also sipped tea in their rooms like this… Thinking about it gave me a curious, almost timeless feeling. I tried a local Shinshu sweet called kuri rakugan (chestnut pressed candy). It melted in my mouth like snow, gently spreading the sweetness of chestnuts. The bath and toilet were shared, but they were spotless and comfortable. And then came the long-awaited dinner time. I couldn’t help but say, “Wow, that looks delicious!” The main dish was horse sashimi, but I had it swapped for another dish. Every dish was rooted in the local cuisine, each one crafted to be savored carefully. The sizzling mushrooms cooked on a hot plate, served fresh and steaming, were absolutely the best. Even dessert was included, making it a dinner that left me completely satisfied. Afterward, I headed out for a nighttime stroll. The town, wrapped in complete silence, felt closer than ever to how it must have looked in the Edo period. A day steeped in the atmosphere of Edo. I couldn’t wait to see what tomorrow’s morning would bring. Morning in Tsumago began slowly and quietly. Though it was the same scenery as yesterday, in the morning air it felt like an entirely different world. Breakfast was also incredibly hearty. The aroma of grilled perilla miso spread through the air, making me want to eat more and more rice. The staff were so kind, making my stay truly pleasant. Though it was hard to leave, I set off from Tsumago toward the beautiful Atera Valley. I had been eager to see this crystal-clear river with my own eyes. First, I took a bus back to Nagiso Station. Here, only paper tickets are available, and trains are few, so you need to be careful. From Nagiso Station, it’s about a 15-minute train ride to Nojiri. Once you arrive at Nojiri Station, it’s about a 20-minute walk to the valley. The countryside summer scenery spread all around, making the walk itself uplifting. Here, I rented an electric bicycle. By bike, you can make a round trip to the campground area of the valley in about two hours. After pedaling just a short distance… I reached a riverside at the entrance of Atera Valley. Wow, it’s beautiful! The water is so clear you can see all the way to the riverbed. This shallow area seemed perfect for families with dogs or small children to play. Further upstream, the river is said to turn a dazzling emerald green. Just imagining what scenery lay ahead filled me with excitement. In summer, cars are restricted, so bicycles can ride along leisurely. The only sounds were the murmuring river and the whisper of the wind. A cool breeze swept through now and then—it felt so refreshing, it could be called a summer retreat. The ride was so pleasant it made me want to take a deep breath. This crystal-clear stream is known as “Atera Blue.” As I rode along, I noticed the river’s color gradually deepening. I was amazed that even from a distance, I could clearly see all the way to the riverbed. Just gazing at it was enough to soothe my heart. Luckily, there were several spots where you could walk right down to the river. Up close, the clear current flowed right before me, filling the air with a quiet sense of peace. It felt even cooler down by the river! When I dipped my hand in, the sharp chill was startling—like a splash of pure wakefulness. It was unbelievably refreshing—the perfect reset! I cooled my bottle of water in the stream and quenched my thirst. Now, let’s keep moving forward. In fact, there are only a few trains back to Matsumoto, so I had just three hours to enjoy here. I arrived at a spot called “Tanuki-ga-fuchi.” The water seemed deeper here, and I saw people happily swimming in the river. Wow, that looks wonderful… so refreshing! I’d heard it gets especially crowded on summer holidays, but today people were relaxing peacefully, and the atmosphere felt calm. Kids growing up playing in a place like this are so lucky. With every turn of the pedals, I stumbled upon new views—it felt like a treasure hunt for scenery. Each time I found a breathtaking spot, my heart skipped with excitement. I discovered my favorite spot of the entire day. There wasn’t a soul around—it felt like my own “private beach”… or rather, a “private riverside.” I dipped my feet in, and the water was shockingly cold—but it felt amazing! Be careful—the riverbed is quite slippery. The water temperature was about 16°C. It was so refreshing I almost didn’t want to go back to hot Tokyo. 😆 I was amazed at how crystal clear the water was, even below the surface! It felt as if my heart was being completely cleansed. I reached the Atera Valley campsite—this was my turnaround point. Here, spring water known as “Bigansui” (beauty water) was bubbling up from the ground. They say washing your face with it will make you beautiful. Of course, it’s drinkable, so I filled an empty bottle with it. One sip—it was icy cold and so refreshing! It gave me the energy to keep cycling back. Atera Valley… the scenery was even more unforgettable than I had imagined. This time was a short visit, but next time I’d love to spend the whole day relaxing by this river. From Nojiri to Matsumoto. Now, I’m heading to my beloved Matsumoto—about an hour and 45 minutes by train. I arrived at Matsumoto Station! The thermometer outside the station read 38°C… it felt unreal compared to the cool air I’d just left. Way too hot! First, I needed a good coffee. I decided to stop by a café I’d been curious about. But before that, in Matsumoto you really should stop by Yohashira Shrine to pray. It’s said to be a place “where all wishes come true,” and it’s one of Matsumoto’s most famous power spots. Every time I visit, I feel strangely calm, as if the shrine gently gives me a push forward. Then I went to a café called “Ohori to Aoki Café.” As the name suggests, it sits right beside the moat of Matsumoto Castle. The building was constructed around 1934 in a classic design, and it was originally a clinic. It has since been renovated and now serves as a gathering place for the local community. As soon as you step inside, the aroma of coffee gently fills the air. They even brew it carefully with a siphon, which is such a nice touch. The furnishings once used in the clinic now blend beautifully into the café’s atmosphere. What surprised me even more was the theater room—believe it or not, it used to be an operating room! I ordered a cup of blended coffee. With just one sip, I felt my travel fatigue melt away. The staff were so kind, it truly felt like a place I was glad to have visited. I found another favorite spot here in Matsumoto. The National Treasure, Matsumoto Castle. Even from a distance, its black keep stands out vividly against the blue sky—it’s absolutely stunning. There are three gates to enter the castle, but today let’s go through the “Taiko-mon,” or Drum Gate. As the name suggests, a drum used to be placed here to announce the time. And what really catches the eye is this enormous stone—an incredible 22.5 tons! It makes you wonder how they managed to move it here without modern machinery. That a castle keep built before the Edo period still remains today feels nothing short of a miracle. No matter how many times I see it, its elegant and commanding presence always moves me. Now, I’m heading to a rather special place. It’s a restaurant called “Kakifune,” where you can dine right above the moat of Matsumoto Castle. In fact, Kakifune was originally a houseboat that floated on the moat. Nowadays it’s fixed on stilts, but it still preserves the atmosphere of those earlier times. It’s such a unique and historically rich place. Inside, it’s clean and calm. But above all, the view! Dining while looking out over the moat is truly a special experience. On this day, I ordered the mixed fry set meal. Shrimp fry, pork fillet cutlet, chicken cutlet—all my favorites on one plate. The coating was light and crispy, while the inside was tender and juicy—I couldn’t stop eating. A place this special, I truly hope it continues for many years to come. I returned once more to Matsumoto Castle. As the sun began to set, its beauty became even more striking. The air felt calmer than during the day, as if people from centuries past might suddenly appear. It made me want to drift back in thought to those earlier times. This journey, wrapped in nature and history, made me fall in love with Nagano even more. Thank you so much for watching until the end. I’d be so happy if you join me again on the next journey.

Come along on a relaxing journey through Nagano, Japan 🌿
We start with a stroll in Tsumago-juku, a beautifully preserved Edo-period town, enjoy local food and cozy cafés, then head to the emerald-green waters of Atera Valley for a peaceful cycling adventure. 🚴‍♀️✨
Finally, we visit Matsumoto Castle, a stunning National Treasure, along with unique spots like a café by the moat and the historic “Kakifune” restaurant.

This video is part Japan countryside trip, part nature vlog, and part train travel vlog — perfect if you’re searching for hidden gems in Japan, relaxing journeys, or cultural experiences beyond the city.

If you enjoy Japanese food vlogs, scenic walks, and authentic Nagano travel vlogs, I think you’ll love this one too. 💕

00:00 Intro
00:29 Train ride from Matsumoto to Nagiso
00:58 Bus ride to Tsumago-juku
01:51 Exploring Tsumago-juku – Edo-period townscape
04:01 Koujitsu Coffee – Affogato treat
04:45 Waki Honjin & Honjin historical houses
06:32 Lunch at Fujioto – Mountain vegetable soba
08:48 Aburaya – Kiso cypress crafts & souvenirs
10:19 Sabō Ebiya – Strawberry milk shaved ice
11:31 Scenic stroll through Tsumago-juku
13:14 Local favorite – Gohei-mochi (grilled rice cake)
13:48 Kozuchiya Café – Coffee in a renovated farmhouse
15:45 Oyado Daikichi – Traditional inn stay & room tour
17:57 Dinner & quiet evening walk in Tsumago
19:08 Traditional Japanese breakfast – Egoma miso
20:29 Journey from Tsumago to Nojiri Station
21:27 Atera Valley – Emerald-green cycling adventure
30:06 Train ride back to Matsumoto
30:48 Yohashira Shrine – “Wish-fulfilling” power spot
31:25 Aoki Café by the castle moat – Siphon coffee
33:08 National Treasure Matsumoto Castle
34:47 Kakifune – Unique restaurant on the castle moat
36:33 Sunset at Matsumoto Castle – Timeless beauty

☘️ Places I visited

◆ Tsumago-juku
https://tsumago.jp

◆ Kojitsu Coffee
https://kojitsucoffee.jp/sp/

◆ Fujioto (restaurant & inn)
https://www.tsumago-fujioto.jp

◆ Oyado Daikichi (traditional inn)
https://r.goope.jp/daikichiinn/

◆ Sabō Ebiya (Japanese sweets café)
https://www.instagram.com/ebiya16?igsh=MXdsdWRubnM3bW10aA==

◆ Omote (local snack shop – Gohei-mochi)

【妻籠】おもて

◆ Kozuchiya Café
https://www.instagram.com/tumagosyuku.kozuchiya?igsh=MWpwODM4M2RpcG0wMA==

◆ Atera Valley (Atera Keikoku)
https://www.vill.okuwa.lg.jp/kanko/shizen/aderakeikoku/picture_atera.html

◆ Rental bicycles for Atera Valley
https://www.vill.okuwa.lg.jp/kanko/shizen/aderakeikoku/precautions_atera.html

◆ Ohori to Aoki Café
https://www.instagram.com/ohori_to_aoki_cafe?igsh=MWF3b2d4OGpzeXNrYQ==

◆ Matsumoto Castle (National Treasure)

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