Inside a Legendary Robatayaki: Sapporo’s Beloved Grill House for 75 Years

Inside a Legendary Robatayaki: Sapporo’s Beloved Grill House for 75 Years

Sapporo, Susukino. The scent of charcoal embers fills the air in this long-established robatayaki restaurant, “Robatayaki Utari.” Founded 75 years ago, its flavors continue to be loved by locals. “My expressions,” “and even how I’m viewed by the staff.” “I want to be a role model. First, I lead by example.” “I work with the awareness that I’m being watched, so I can be a good example.” A day in the life of Utari’s young manager and staff, who support the restaurant. First, they separate the ash from the charcoal used in yesterday’s grilling. Then, they arrange the charcoal. Cleaning of the dining area also begins. Simultaneously, preparation starts in the kitchen. They prepare the ingredients so they can be grilled immediately at the robata. They hang up the opened Atka mackerel. This process apparently removes excess moisture using the heat from the robata, concentrating the flavors. Once the vegetables are prepared, they begin preparing the squid. They wash it thoroughly. “The parts I’m removing now aren’t inedible, but” “they affect the appearance and have a slightly harsh taste, so we remove them.” Adding this extra step truly enhances the flavor. Next up is preparing the grilled king crab. Even a single serving here is very satisfying. Opening time is drawing near. Charcoal is placed into the robata. The crackling sound of the charcoal is wonderful. The robata is now almost ready. This is for the “otoushi,” our complimentary appetizer. That melon namul looks delicious. Bottled beer is kept chilled with ice like this. This ambiance is also truly special. Once the preparations settle down, everyone eats together. Manager Ohsumi is in charge of grilling. He puts on his bandana, and gets pumped up. The pre-opening meeting has begun. Each person’s position and responsibilities are decided. The first customers have arrived. He adjusts the fire in the robata. First up are scallops and fried tofu. Finished with a brush of soy sauce, they’re ready. A quick cut, and it’s complete. This sound, and the aroma of charcoal-grilled fried tofu are irresistible. It looks delicious! Orders keep coming in. That’s a craftsman’s gaze. The squid is also grilled and being finished in the kitchen. This also looks incredibly delicious. Grilled Atka mackerel and shrimp. The sounds and aroma from the robata are simply irresistible. The scallops are also perfectly grilled. Skewering the shrimp ensures they grill without curling up. Immediately after opening, the restaurant is already full. On this day too, it was fully booked. If you want to be sure of a table, it’s best to make a reservation. Potatoes are cooking under the grill. Potato with butter is also a popular menu item. Many international customers visit, and Manager Ohsumi was explaining the best way to eat it. Utari was a filming location for “First Love,” and music from the show regularly plays from this record player. One of Utari’s charms was also the wonderful service provided by all the staff. The grilling never stops. These are young corn. The robata-grilled vegetables also look incredibly delicious. The steam and aroma are amazing. (JKT) Is the perfect doneness based on experience? “It’s experience, intuition, and looking at it.” “Up until the station before me, the grilling was done by older ladies.” “When I was taught,” “even if I asked, ‘When is the right time to flip this?’ they’d only say ‘It’s a feeling.'” “Since I started doing it myself,” “I now gauge it by roughly how many minutes it takes.” (JKT) That must be helpful when teaching others. “Yes, it’s easier to pass on to the next generation if there’s a guideline.” Laughter fills the restaurant, creating a comfortable and lively atmosphere. It’s great to be taught how to eat things. “At Utari, I’m taught things beyond just cooking, which is very educational.” He is here for training, but he shared that there is so much to learn, and he finds it enjoyable. Besides robatayaki, Utari also offers dishes like Ikura Don (salmon roe bowl). That’s a generous amount of salmon roe! A popular closing dish is this mochi. Grilling it wrapped in nori seaweed is just perfect. Nagaimo (Japanese yam) was also popular. This looks delicious! Customers are constantly coming and going. (JKT) The number of customers is incredible! “When it’s even busier, there’s a line outside.” “Today, we were lucky enough that people could come in as soon as a table opened up.” (JKT) Manager Ohsumi, have you been at Utari for a long time? “I’ve been at Utari for two years, and with the company for three years.” “I initially started in the kitchen of the Suginome ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant).” “Then I moved to Utari, learned how to grill, and that’s where it all started.” (JKT) Was this something you originally wanted to do? “I never imagined I’d be doing grilling.” “Initially, I wanted to train in Japanese cuisine.” “I thought it would be good to hone my basic movements and handling of tools in Japanese cuisine.” “Then, I came here several times for help, but” “I found it enjoyable.” “So then it was like, ‘Why not try grilling?'” (JKT) So that was the turning point. “In Japanese cuisine, you start from polishing pots, so” “I’m grateful to be given the opportunity to do grilling like this.” “I try to talk to customers as much as possible.” “It’s quite difficult when we’re busy, but” “now that I have more time,” “I think I’ll try to engage in more conversations with everyone.” “It just so happens that these are the members we have here,” “and they do what I ask,” “and even before I can say something, they’ve already taken care of it, so” “I’m truly grateful.” Manager Ohsumi mentioned that he’s always helped by his staff. He told us that he’s always helped by his staff. It was impressive to see so many smiles, and everyone at Utari was truly sparkling. The busy period has settled down, and I’m being taught how to grill. I gratefully accepted their offer of mochi. I highly recommend trying this mochi as a final dish. Mochi grilled at the robata is simply the best! “The reason I wanted to become a chef was,” “because of my father’s influence.” “My father isn’t a chef; he’s a truck driver, but” “his dream was to be a chef.” “His knife case,” “and how he’d try to replicate delicious dishes from various restaurants.” “Seeing my father like that,” “was initially what made me want to fulfill his dream.” Closing time arrives, and cleanup begins. The limited-quantity foil-baked onions are slowly cooked with this heat. “As the oldest robatayaki restaurant in Sapporo,” “everyone’s impression when they come in is probably that an elderly woman is doing the grilling.” “But we’re going for the opposite, a positive gap, so” “we make sure to show customers our bright ‘welcome’ when they enter, and our cheerful ‘thank you’ when they leave,” “and precise, energetic movements.” “We focus on engaging all five senses.” “The atmosphere when you enter,” “the sound of grilling,” “our cheerful voices,” “watching the grilled items,” “and of course, the taste.” “We’re conscious of creating a place where all of these can be experienced.” Even after closing, a customer came to share their feedback. It was a moment when I felt everyone’s feelings had reached the customer. “It’s truly gratifying when customers come like this.” “It makes us so happy.” (JKT) I was watching and thinking exactly that just now. “Because of moments like these,” “we feel like we can keep striving,” “and I love seeing customers’ reactions and how happy they are.” “It becomes my own motivation and encouragement.” Robatayaki Utari. The taste and warmth of 75 years are being carried on by its young manager and staff, and today, too, it’s filled with smiles and cheerful voices. The aroma of charcoal, the sound of grilling, lively conversations—a warm experience for all five senses awaits you here.

For over 75 years, Robatayaki Utari has stood in the heart of Sapporo’s Susukino district—serving warmth, tradition, and fire-grilled soul.
This documentary follows the young manager and dedicated staff as they prepare for another day of service.
From charcoal preparation to food prep, discover how Japan’s timeless robata culture is carried on by the next generation.
It’s a story of tradition, teamwork, and the spirit of hospitality—only found at Utari.

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