We fortify ourselves for the next hell with a devilishly delicious, hot springs-steamed creme caramel before driving to Onishii-Bouza Jigoku – Monk’s Head Hell. Here, the earth exhales slowly through smoky puddles while bald bubbles lift and dip like the heads of monks in prayer. It’s both mesmerising and mildly terrifying, especially the sense of pent-up rage pressure-cooking beneath our feet.
It’s a short drive to Myoban Onsen to explore Beppu’s history of therapeutic bathing, where Yunohana bath salts have been produced the same way since 1725. Inside straw-thatched huts, ghost-white crystals bloom like frost. We taste steam-cooked eggs and pick up sachets of Yunohana, guaranteed to cure everything from ringworm to rheumatism.
Chinoike Jigoku or “Blood Pond Hell”.Credit: Getty Images
A baptism of fire awaits in the district of Shibaseki at Chinoike Jigoku – Blood Pond Hell – one of Japan’s oldest hot springs: a molten masterpiece that could have been conjured by Dante himself, where iron-rich mud gives the water its murderous colour. Veiled in clouds of steam, the natural cauldron simmers steadily at 78 degrees, far too hot to dip even one tired toe in.
As we circle the simmering pool, rain begins to fall, each drop making the surface hiss like a beast. Soaked, we find refuge under a shelter where tempered spring water offers a free foot soak. The seats are split logs, and there aren’t any fluffy robes, but this impromptu spa treatment is heaven on Earth.
Viking Venus at sea.Credit:
The details
Fly
Qantas flies daily direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Hong Kong. See qantas.com
Cruise
Viking’s 15-day Far Eastern Horizons cruise from Hong Kong to Tokyo (operates in reverse) from $10,795 a person, based on double occupancy, flights not included. All meals, beer, wine and soft drinks with onboard lunch and dinner, one shore excursion in every port of call, Wi-Fi, gratuities and speciality dining included. See viking.com
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