Visiting Japan’s Cat Island, Where More Cats Than People Live Among the Ruins of a Coal Mine

Visiting Japan’s Cat Island, Where More Cats Than People Live Among the Ruins of a Coal Mine

With very friendly cats A peaceful and happy time to play The island was once bustling with coal mining. …but it’s been 25 years since the mine was shut down. Nature has taken over the old housing blocks… …leaving behind quiet ruins and industrial relics. Once a vital piece in Japan’s growth through coal… …the island still looks stunning under the glow of the setting sun. There are buses to the nearest port to Ikeshima. About 35 km from Nagasaki Station, 1.5
hours. Details are in the video description. Hello everyone! Today I’m at Haneda Airport in Tokyo. Checking in at the ticketless self-service kiosk. This time, I’m heading to Nagasaki in Kyushu. Last year, Gunkanjima (Battleship Island)
made headlines thanks to a popular TV drama. But today, I’ll be visiting Ikeshima—another
former mining island located nearby. It’s now known for its ruins and cats. I’ll be focusing
on the cats to show you the island as it is today! I’ve arrived in Nagasaki. And the weather is perfect! Luckily, I’m catching a ride from the airport to the ferry terminal. A local Senpai friend, who helped me years ago
with work, kindly arranged a car. Huge thanks! Now we’re approaching the coastline. This area is Sotome, near Ikeshima—
once a refuge for Japan’s hidden Christians. That white building on the left is
the Shusaku Endo Literature Museum. And in the distance, there it is—Ikeshima,
once a prosperous mining island. With time before the ferry departs, I decide to briefly
stop by the literature museum, which overlooks the sea. The novel and film Silence was set here in Sotome,
where many Christians once suffered persecution. It’s a great opportunity to explore Endo’s
Christian literature. Definitely worth a visit. Now we head to Konoura Port. This red bridge is one of three painted in the colors of the
French flag—honoring Father de Rotz, a French missionary. On the left is the Konoura Port
building. The ticket office is inside. This is the ticket booth. It will open
when the departure time approaches. Large ferries run twice a day and cost 470 yen one way.
Also smaller boats running four times a day. The ferry has arrived—it’s bigger than I expected! I’m getting excited. As soon as I board, the ferry departs. Heading up to the third floor deck. Sailing out slowly, we leave behind
the lush, green coastline of Sotome. Let’s take a look inside the ferry. It’s almost empty. This is the final ferry to Ikeshima today,
and it looks like I’m the only tourist staying overnight. It’s a 30-minute journey to the island. There it is—Ikeshima on the horizon. The port is getting closer. There’s one accommodation facility, but no dining services
on the island—so you’ll need to bring your own food. There are a few vending machines on the island, but
options are limited—so bring plenty of drinks as well. There used to be a supermarket on the
island, but it is now closed. So keep that in mind if you’re planning a visit. I can’t wait to see what kinds of
encounters this two-day trip will bring. Here’s a map of Ikeshima. It’s about 4 kilometers
(2.5miles) around—easy to explore on foot. Ikeshima was all about coal mining. Mining operations began in 1959, tapping into coal
beneath the sea to fuel Japan’s rapid postwar growth. The population peaked at 7,776 in 1970. But as
oil replaced coal, the mine shut down in 2001. Now, abandoned buildings and facilities remain,
with only about 90 residents still on the island. These tracks were once used for coal transport. Here’s a drum cutter used to slice through the bedrock. It would carve into walls like this one. Let’s walk toward the guesthouse now. I’m passing through public housing that faces the port… A cat has just come up to me—my first feline friend of the trip! There are quite a few of them—
it looks like they move around in groups. Before I know it, more and more cats start to gather around me. I politely asked a nearby resident for permission to film
—and then, camera in hand, I got started. These cats are incredibly friendly and sociable. They don’t fight with each other—they get along surprisingly well. Even with the camera pointed at them, they just act naturally. After a little while, they seem to have warmed up to me. 😀 Now they’re completely ignoring
the camera—as if I’m not even here. But some are still a little shy. One seems to be saying:
“Hey… don’t point that thing at me too much, okay?” Yep, definitely camera-shy😅 Even so, new cats keep coming
up to greet this unexpected visitor. Rubbing his head. So adorable. Just gazing at it will soothe you with the peaceful atmosphere. Time feels like it’s standing still. They’re grooming each other. And then… This curious little one suddenly starts pawing at the camera! 😄 Now they’re all on the move again. Looks like they’re gathering for something. What could be going on? Maybe this is one of their favorite spots. They’ve all settled down and aren’t budging. Some are sitting so neatly—it’s honestly quite charming. I didn’t expect to meet so many cats
so quickly after arriving on the island. This cat from earlier still seems interested in the camera😀 And then he has started sharpening his claws. Very energetic personality. Giving a gentle pat to the first cat that came up to me. It looks like it feels so good to be stroked. Even when I leave the housing complex, the cats follow me around. It’s cute… but I’m also starting to worry a bit. As the buildings get farther away, I’m really
beginning to wonder if they’ll go back😕 Looks like they finally turned back.
I’m sure they’ve returned to their spot. Now here’s the coal-fired power plant that
once supplied the island with electricity. This is where Japan’s first seawater desalination system was installed, providing fresh water for the mine and the residents—crucial infrastructure back then. Before that, water had to be transported here by tanker. The coal mining was run by Matsushima Mining, part
of the Mitsui Group. This sign marks the entrance. And up ahead, you can see the towering
structure of the first main shaft. This may have been one of the former commercial facilities.
The shutters are now closed and it is truly abandoned. Just ahead is the island’s still-operating fire station. And here is the island’s only accommodation—
Ikeshima Central Hall, with rooms for 28 guests. It feels more like a community center than a hotel. As I approach the hall… …I spot something! Another group of cats! One of them is coming right up to me! Ah, what a cutie! 😀 A few gentle strokes, and he’s absolutely loving it. More cats start coming over one after another. They show no signs of being wary of people. Maybe showing their bellies is their way of saying, “I trust you”? In any case, they’re clearly enjoying being petted. Ah, this one looks like it’s loving the massage 😅 At this rate, I might never make it to check-in! Okay, let’s finally head inside. Oh—wait! One of the cats has tried to slip inside with me!
I’m scrambling to block it with one hand! 😂 Easy now… good kitty. This place isn’t for you! Whew, this could get tricky. Let’s try that again—time to step inside for real! Looks like someone’s still watching me from outside 😁 Here’s the lobby of the guesthouse. Reception is right here. After checking in… …I head upstairs to the room I’ll be staying in tonight. It feels like a mix between a community
center and an old school building. This is my room. Let’s go inside! It’s a traditional Japanese tatami room—very clean and tidy. They’ve already laid out the futon for me, which is a big help. From here, you can even see the remains
of the old mining housing in the distance. Worried about showers or hot water? Don’t be. There is no hot water in the bathtub during the day, but
in the evening the bathtub is filled with plenty of bath water. Showers work perfectly, and they even
provide soap, shampoo, and hairdryers. Let’s take a little walk around the area—
while making sure no cats sneak inside! Thankfully, this one seems well-behaved. See you later, guesthouse kitties! I’ve spotted traffic signals here on the island. Only the yellow light in the center is flashing continuously. With barely anyone around, it feels
like stepping into a different world. This is Ikeshima Elementary and Junior High School. The building is large, reflecting a time when nearly 8,000 people lived here. According to a local, a few students
are still attending the school today. Let’s go check out the remains of the old mining apartments. Of course, entering the buildings is prohibited,
so I’ll just look at them from the outside. Construction of these apartments began around
1953, with about 50 buildings completed by 1978. The architectural style of the Showa era housing complexes has been preserved, making it a valuable piece of Japanese architectural history. Just like Gunkanjima (Battleship Island), these buildings are a reminder of the role coal played in powering postwar Japan—and their value as heritage sites is only growing. And here is one of the largest apartment blocks—eight stories tall. Interestingly, despite its height, it was built without elevators. The layout cleverly uses the terrain—allowing access to
floors 1–4 from the front road, and floors 5–8 from the rear. By 1970, the island’s population had swelled to 7,776, and this was of great help in providing housing for the employees at the time. At first glance it looks like just a ruin now, but I hope that it will be passed down to future generations as a part of our heritage. I’ve stumbled upon a spot where flowers are in bloom. The contrast with the crumbling buildings is incredibly striking. Some of the old mining apartments are now covered in thick ivy. The mine officially closed in 2001—meaning
24 years have passed since then. It feels like something straight out of
a Studio Ghibli film, brought to life. These man-made structures were once
built to extract a resource from nature… …and now we’re witnessing the quiet
process of them returning to nature once more. It’s almost like a grand art installation—one created
jointly by human hands and the forces of nature. Past and present coexist here in a single space. As I make my way back to the main street leading to the port… …I come across yet another group of cats just lounging around! 😁 There must be at least 20 of them here. And it looks like I’ve been accepted into the group! But what are they all gathered here for? Then a local island resident appears. Volunteers are there to feed the cats. Everyone seems to be thoroughly enjoying their meal. Not far from here, there used to be a place called “Mom’s Diner,”
a small eatery that served home-cooked meals… Many cats gathered there, and some
of those cats may be among them now. Perhaps this is how their lives have continued on. After feeding the cats, the volunteer walks away briskly. And once again, I find myself surrounded
by a tranquil and quiet landscape. It’s a peaceful and calming moment. A local told me that cats can also be found in the Gō District,
once the island’s bustling downtown area. Ah, and there’s one already! Though this one seems a bit more cautious than the others. Farther into the Gō District, where more abandoned homes remain,
there’s a plaza where more cats are said to gather. This seems to be the square. There they are—a group of cats! He is friendly and comes close to me. It’s so cute that I can’t help but stroke its head. Look how politely this one’s sitting—so well-behaved! The cats on Ikeshima all have beautiful fur. Illuminated by the setting sun, time
passes quietly here too. It’s such a peaceful and heartwarming moment. The sun slowly falls into the sea… …and its beauty leaves me speechless. It felt as if each second was melting into eternity. And just like that, the day on Ikeshima quietly came to an end. It’s early, but… good night! Good morning. On the first floor of the Ikeshima Central Lodge, there’s an exhibit chronicling the
history of the Ikeshima coal mine. Through photos, newspaper clippings, and other displays, you can learn about the island’s journey from past to present. Now then, time for a morning walk. But first, I’d better make sure the
cats don’t sneak into the building. Good morning, little kitty friends! 😁 That meow is just irresistible! Before heading out, I’ve decided to spend
a little more time playing with them. They’re just so friendly and affectionate. Is your head itchy, buddy? 😀 They’re getting more playful by the minute! 😅 Looks like it’s grooming time this morning. Yes, I see—“That’s right!” he seems to be saying 😁 I’ve returned to the old mining
apartments. The streetlights, the design… Everything still bears the unmistakable
charm of mid-20th-century Japan. I also wonder if there might be cats
around here too, and sure enough… There they are! 😀 Illuminated by the morning sun They look completely content and at peace. This one seems especially curious. Just listening to their meows… …feels like a kind of ASMR. It’s soothing, almost euphoric. This morning walk has turned out to be a wonderful idea. Before you know it… Over here… And over there… Even right here. Just watching cats can be incredibly soothing. There are bus stops all over the island. You will see that community shuttle buses run regularly. Right in the middle of the road sits a “loyal cat” —
like a feline version of Hachikō — quietly watching me. Is there something it wants to tell me? …Apparently not😅 I’ve returned to the lodge. That friendly orange tabby comes up to greet me first again. I asked a local woman something I’d been wondering… “Why are there so many cats on Ikeshima?” She responded, “No so many cats before. I think when the mine closed (in 2001), pet cats were left behind and the population naturally increased.” Before the island became known as a “cat island,” kind-hearted people probably began caring for those abandoned cats—and that care continues today. You really do look content and happy. 😀 A local man told me there are now “about 100” cats
living here in various groups across the island. As a visitor, all I can do is show respect
for the island’s history and its people… …follow the rules carefully, and gently interact with the cats. While Ikeshima is gaining attention as a
“ruined island,” once a thriving coal mine… …it’s also a place of industrial heritage, unique architecture, lovely sunsets—and, of course, its cats. I hope the island’s charm continues to spread. They’re all grooming themselves now. Except
for this one, who just won’t leave my side. 😁 I can’t even begin to count how much
energy and joy these cats have given me. So relaxed, aren’t you… And that’s perfectly fine😁 It’s a lot more relaxing here 😆 I am grateful for this peaceful moment. But now it’s time to say goodbye. The orange tabby has come to see me off. It’s time to leave the lodge behind. Until we meet again! The last ferry to Konoura has arrived. Through conversations with locals and encounters with the cats… …I was able to spend truly meaningful and memorable time here. I hope this journey has conveyed
at least a little of Ikeshima’s charm. There must have been another tale of a
“The Sleeping Diamond in the Sea” hidden here, too. May the island’s history and beauty
continue to be discovered and shared. Thank you so much for watching all the way to the end.

I took a two-day, one-night trip to Ikeshima, a former coal mining island in Nagasaki Prefecture. Today, Ikeshima is gaining attention as a “Semi-abandoned Island,” known for its industrial coal mining ruins, just like nearby world famous Gunkanjima. But it’s also quietly beloved as a “cat island,” home to many feline residents.

Located about 7 kilometers west of the Nishisonogi Peninsula in Nagasaki, Ikeshima is a small island with a circumference of just 4 kilometers. It once thrived thanks to the Ikeshima Coal Mine, which began operations in 1959. At its peak in 1985, the mine produced over 1.53 million tons of coal, playing a vital role in powering Japan during the Showa era.

However, high competition with the rise of cheaper overseas coal and the shift toward oil-based energy, the mine was closed in November 2001. Today, abandoned mining facilities, apartment blocks, and shops remain as silent witnesses to the island’s past. From a population of over 7,776 in 1970, fewer than 100 residents remain today.

Yet in recent years, Ikeshima has become known for something unexpected — its cats.Through these feline companions, along with valuable sites of industrial heritage, the architectural beauty of the Showa era housing, its beautiful nature such as sunset, I invite you to discover a different side of Ikeshima: a quiet, healing island full of life, memory, and charm.

English subtitles are available for this video. Please make sure to turn them on when watching on YouTube.
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Useful Links (関連情報)：
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🔽How to access from Nagasaki Airport to Ikeshima Island
👉　 http://www.kanko-sotome.com/access/
　Detailed information is available on this website. Please open it in Google Chrome and use the English translation feature. You can check all bus and ferry transfer schedules here, making it very convenient.

From Nagasaki Airport to Nagasaki Station, here is also timetable for travelers
👉 https://nagasaki-airport.jp/en/access/bus/timetable/bus_nagasaki.php

From Konoura port to Ikeshima Island:
Ferry 10: 30/13:46 Fare: ¥ 470
Shineimaru(smaller boat) 6:45/7:30/15:40/16:25 Fare: ¥ 370

Note: To view the website in English using Google Chrome, you can use the built-in translation feature. When you open the website, Chrome should automatically prompt you to translate the page. If not, you can right-click on the page and select “Translate to English.” This will translate the content into English for easier navigation.
🔽Ikeshima Chuo Hall(Lodge) 👉 http://www.kanko-sotome.com/tomaru04/
Please open it in Google Chrome and use the English translation feature.
🔽Shusaku Endo Literature Museum　👉　https://www.city.nagasaki.lg.jp/site/endou/
Please open it in Google Chrome and use the English translation feature.

🔽Please subscribe my channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ArigatoSoloTravel

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Chapter (目次機能)：
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00:00 Opening
03:47 Ferry Ride from Konoura Port
07:35 First Meeting With Cats
14:29 The Cats at Lodge
18:48 Strolling Through The Ruins
23:04 Among the Cats
27:01 Evening Light and Cats of Ikeshima
31:48 Morning Light and Cats
35:06 Goodbye, Cats of the Lodge
38:10 Epilogue
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