Better than the Zion Narrows? – Backpacking Parunuweap Canyon, Utah

Better than the Zion Narrows? – Backpacking Parunuweap Canyon, Utah

Let’s face it, the Zion Narrows are crowded. And if you want permits to hike top down, they’re hard to get. While researching that trip, I stumbled across another, lesser known alternative; Parunuweap Canyon. No, it isn’t the Zion Narrows. However, it has a section – known as the Barracks – that is very similar. But wait. There’s more. And depending on what you like, more may be better than the Zion Narrows.

Parunuweap Canyon doesn’t require permits at all. It’s actually located along the east fork of the Virgin River, starting at Mount Carmel Junction, Utah and extending into Zion National Park. Note that the portion past Labyrnth Falls (at the border of Zion National Park) is a wilderness study area which you are not allowed to enter. But that’s fine, because the area you ARE allowed into is incredible. There are numerous canyons – both named and unnamed – that you can explore. Most are fairly narrow with red rock walls extending hundreds of feet up. Rock Canyon was a beautiful canyon that contained a riparian stretch that was very unexpected given the surrounding landscape. French Canyon was a tight slot with beautiful red rock walls and a clear stream running through it. Both of these canyons can be descended with technical gear and experience.

Originally, we planned to hike in from Mount Carmel Junction, camp a Rock Canyon and day hike to Labyrnth Falls, then revere the trip back to our car. But Tina found a canyoneering beta for Rock Canyon that included a sneak route that would drop us straight into Rock Canyon after a 1~2 mile hike. I’d read that the first 4 or so miles from Mount Carmel Junction were an open wash with unspectacular views, so that option sounded great. But….

The roads to the sneak route were by Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. Not surprisingly, there is a lot of sand around Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. Lots of sand. Deep sand. The roads were definitely the worst sand roads I’ve ever been on; do not attempt this without the right vehicle and the right gear to get you out if you get stuck.

But we made it and the trip in was perfect. Short and sweet and right into the scenic part of the canyon. We camped at the confluence of Rock Canyon and the East Fork of the Virgin River. There was a spring nearby and petroglyphs right across the river from us. Couldn’t have asked for a better spot.

Day 1 we explored Rock Canyon, a couple side canyons and walked upstream to the Desolation gullies.

Day 2 was the big day. We walked downstream toward the falls. The canyon was beautiful almost immediately; the same light grey/blue waters as the Zion Narrows, only with tall red rock walls instead of the greyish walls the narrows are known for. There were several beautiful alcoves that reminded me of Jacob Hamblin Arch. And plenty of great campsites and springs.

After several miles, we came to the Barracks. In this section, the walls closed in on the river, but again, they were red instead of grey. We went a short way up French Canyon, which was absolutely gorgeous.

Around this time I realized the hike was a lot longer than I anticipated, so we had to speed up and shorten our trip into French Canyon….and skip our planned trip up Poverty Wash completely.

But Parunuweap Canyon just continued to wow at every turn. My intended itinerary was to see Misery Canyon, the Powell Plaque and Labyrnth Falls. Out of those, I REALLY wanted to see Misery Canyon the most. So we continued on.

Eventually we came to the one major obstacle in the canyon; an unnamed waterfall. It can range from easy to impassable depending on log and rock placement. When we were there, it was impassable. Luckily, there was a bypass to the canyon left that we knew about. A short bit of fun scrambling and we were around it and back in the canyon.

And the canyon just kept getting better and better. We eventually came up to Misery Canyon and were able to climb up into it a bit. There was a chamber in Misery Canyon I had read about that contains a double arch. I read you could climb up to it, but you have to be a better climber than me. I couldn’t get to it. Still, Misery Canyon was beautiful and I will definitely be back to canyoneer it.

After Misery Canyon, Parunuweap Canyon’s walls got taller and closer together. And grey. The next half mile or so looked exactly like the Zion Narrows. Only there was no one there but us. This was definitely our favorite part of the trip.

We eventually came upon the Powell Plaque; a memorial to John W. Powell. I don’t know who decided this remote and unknown canyon was a good place for a memorial, but I like their thinking. I would love a similar memorial in some remote place.

Anyway, we didn’t have enough time for the falls, and I had heard you needed a hand line (which I brought), so we turned around and booked it out.

I absolutely loved this place