Kôenji is one of the districts of the Suginami district in western Tokyo, Japan. Suginami and Setagaya further south are some of the most pleasant districts in the capital. There are actually many places of the same kind, whatever the direction, as soon as you leave the belt of the Yamanote Line. This marks a bit the limit of ultra modern Tokyo with its vertical urbanism so characteristic. Outside, municipalities and old villages have urbanized more slowly, the pace of life is slower and they have been in spite of themselves included in the unlimited expansion of the city.

Koenji is about 5km north-west of Shinjuku, less than 10 minutes away by train. We stay in Tokyo but the atmosphere is rather that of a nearby suburb. This is a hook to do if you want to discover all the charm of Tokyo and its architecture: behind the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, place to small shopping streets after the war!

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