Tom Austin
It goes without saying that here at Time+Tide, we love to champion microbrands. While we all love to see what’s new from the biggest brands, the microbrand sphere is the lifeblood of the watch collector scene; it’s where everyone can explore new things and express themselves with interesting, under-the-radar brands. There are niches within that sphere, and one that seems to be gaining traction recently is the Japanese microbrand domain, with brands like Kurono, Otsuka Lotec, and Kuoe Kyoto presenting strong alternatives to the best that Europe has to offer. But have you heard of Kiwame Tokyo or its new MUNE watch?
We covered Kiwame Tokyo back in December, with the launch of the Iwao (巌) series. The brand is tucked away in Tokyo’s bustling Asakusa district, an area which preserves tradition while surrounded by fast-paced technological advancement. Asakusa is Tokyo’s premier “old town” district, offering a nostalgic glimpse into the Edo period through the iconic Senso-ji Temple — the city’s oldest Buddhist temple — with the great roof of the Kaminarimon Gate at the temple’s entrance showcasing the incredible vermillion-red architecture of historic Japan. Naturally, with such easy access to the architectural aesthetics of traditional Japanese design, it makes perfect sense that Kiwame would draw inspiration from that for its watches, and for its latest MUNE(棟) model, that’s precisely what’s been done.
The case
The 316L stainless steel case is, for all intents and purposes, the same as the previous model, and that is no bad thing whatsoever. At 38mm in diameter, 9.5mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, it’s as comfortable as it is good-looking. There’s a solid blend of brushed and polished surfaces in all the right places, such as the flanks, for example, which are the easiest place to scratch your watch, are left brushed, while the high-polish areas are on the upper surfaces of the lugs, keeping the watch luxurious, yet practical. The case sides are pleasantly curved, with no straight edges, resulting in a tactile, easy-to-wear watch.
The side profile of the case is relatively block-like, despite its thin 9.5mm proportions, and this is mostly down to the straight-edged bezel that clamps down on the anti-reflective sapphire crystal up front. This means the upper portion of the case sits flat, giving it a balanced presence despite its relatively small overall dimensions. Water resistance is rated to 100 metres, which means it’s great as an everyday wearer, and the fluted crown is a simple push/pull affair, which is perfectly adequate in this instance.
The dial
There’s a clear architectural thread running through the MUNE collection, and it feels far more considered than most design-led talking points. Drawing on the rooflines of Asakusa’s Sensō-ji Temple and the sweeping form of the Kaminarimon Gate, the idea of the “ridge” becomes the anchor for the entire dial, most obviously expressed through the sculptural 12 o’clock index. There are two variations of the watch: the MUNE(棟) USUKI with an ivory dial, and the MUNE(棟) KUROTSUKI with a black dial.
From that shared foundation, they diverge quite deliberately. The MUNE(棟) USUKI leans into warmth and restraint, its softly tinted ivory surface paired with dark applied numerals and minimal lume for a clean, easygoing feel. The MUNE(棟) KUROTSUKI, on the other hand, goes more intense, with a black lacquer dial that adds real depth, vertically brushed numeral indices, and a full ring of lume that comes alive in low light. Finally, the luminous counterweight of the seconds hand is shaped to evoke the great roof of Kaminarimon Gate. Extending from it, the tip of the seconds hand on the black dial model is finished in a deep crimson tone reminiscent of the gate’s vermilion pillars, bringing together the architectural relationship between roof and columns within a single hand.
The movement
Hiding beneath the engraved, solid screw-down caseback is a Japanese Miyota 9039 calibre, an automatic movement offering a 42-hour power reserve while beating at 28,800 Vph. It’s a stalwart in the microbrand space anyway; however, with Kiwame being Japanese, it seems all the more fitting. The 9039 is a solid 3-hander that offers an accuracy of -10/+30 seconds per day and features 24 jewels, along with a Parashock anti-shock system, making it a perfect movement for what is, at its heart, an everyday field watch.
The strap
Both the MUNE(棟) USUKI and the MUNE(棟) KUROTSUKI arrive on the same Italian-made strap, made from genuine calf leather, finished in a navy blue with contrasting stitching. The straps feature quick-release spring bars so they can be easily swapped out, and they’re secured with a stainless steel pin buckle. Finally, Kiwame Tokyo does offer a three-link BR01 flat link bracelet in stainless steel as an optional extra, which would add another dimension to what is already an extremely versatile watch.
The verdict
Japanese microbrands are hugely compelling right now, mainly due to the incredible attention to detail and care taken over the smaller elements. Kiwame Tokyo’s approach of offering an everyday field watch with truly interesting design elements that capture aspects of the brand’s home city is a novel concept, but the execution with the MUNE model is where the difference is noticeable. The case design is well considered, the dial layout is thoughtful and legible, without leaning too heavily towards overtly Japanese themes. It’s clearly a Japanese watch, but it leaves just enough intrigue to cause you to want to look a little closer, and once you do, you’re highly rewarded by the details.
Kiwame Tokyo MUNE (棟) pricing and availability
The Kiwame Tokyo MUNE (棟) USUKI and KUROTSUKI are available to pre-order from 15th April from the Kiwame Tokyo online boutique. Price: US$690
Brand
Kiwame Tokyo
Model
MUNE (棟)
Reference
KT201 – MUNE (棟) USUKI
KT202 – MUNE (棟) KUROTSUKI
Case Dimensions
38mm (D) x 9.5mm (T) x 46mm (LTL)
Case Material
316L stainless steel
Water Resistance
100 metres
Crystal(s)
Sapphire front, anti-reflective
Dial
Ivory, black
Lug Width
20mm
Strap
Navy Italian calf leather, pin buckle
Movement
Miyota 9039, automatic
Power Reserve
42 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Availability
Pre-orders open April 15th
Price
US$690
AloJapan.com