Compared to the long-standing tradition of Swiss watches, the history of Japanese watches is relatively short. However, through continuous refinement and unique development, many standout models have reached a level comparable to their European counterparts, resulting in many masterpieces worthy of being called heritage pieces. The Seiko “King Seiko VANAC,” a new series added to the King Seiko line last year, is one such example.
King Seiko, Seiko’s high-end mechanical watch brand, was born in 1961 at the Daini Seikosha Kameido factory. At that time, in preparation for the Tokyo Olympics, large-scale urban development projects such as the Tokyo Tower, the Shinkansen, and the Metropolitan Expressway were rapidly transforming the cityscape. King Seiko was created to support the fast-paced daily life of this evolving city. From that period of high economic growth into the 1970s, quartz watches took over and brought that earlier era of mechanical watches (and King Seiko’s initial mission) to an end.
After several limited-edition reissues, King Seiko was relaunched in earnest in 2022. It incorporated modern technology but leant into the brand’s heritage. The original VANAC appeared in 1972, and its vibrant colors and innovative multifaceted case design clearly distinguished it from previous styles from the brand. That pioneering spirit is certainly evident in the revived VANAC, too.
King Seiko.
With “Tokyo Highway” as its design concept, the collection takes inspiration from the capital city, its birthplace, through the case and smoothly connected bracelet. The bezel-less case, with its sharp surface configuration, features arched mirror surfaces extending to the left and right, combined with a trapezoidal slope connecting to the bracelet. The case diameter is 41mm, the largest in the King Seiko series, but the thickness and volume are visually reduced, resulting in a sleek design that doesn’t feel oversized.
Kenichiro Hiy
“SDKV001” was released in July 2025.
Kenichiro Hiy
The “HKF001J” is a new model featuring a titanium case
The latest model uses titanium as the exterior material. Generally, titanium is said to be 40% lighter than stainless steel, and the difference is immediately apparent upon wearing it. Along with a light and comfortable feel, the heavy, voluminous feel is given a sportier edge.
Titanium, being inherently tough, is difficult to process and polish. Nevertheless, the edges where surfaces meet are finished to an extremely sharp degree, highlighting a refined, industrial beauty. The seamless integration of the case and bracelet is particularly captivating and admirable.
The bracelet seamlessly follows the case’s shape, tapering towards the buckle in an elegant style reminiscent of a dress bracelet. While seamless, the shorter link spacing results in smoother movement and a perfect fit on the wrist. The lightweight titanium contributes significantly to this superior comfort.
Furthermore, the buckle has been updated from the previous double-opening type to a new one-push tri-fold type, achieving both ease of use and a secure hold, improving its practicality.
Initially, I wondered if the difference between the new titanium model and the stainless steel version was distinct enough, especially considering the price difference.
Kenichiro Hiy
However, after actually wearing it, I realised that this was an unfounded concern. The understated purple, grey, and black colours chosen for the dial harmonise beautifully with the sophisticated gunmetal hue unique to solid titanium.
The watch is set for release in the UK on 1 July for £3,400. You can pre-order now.
AloJapan.com