Odo East Village, the casual sibling to Hiroki Odo’s Flatiron two-Michelin-starred namesake, has the swagger of a Japanese pub with the attention to detail of fine dining.

The 24-seat minimalist Japanese bar framed by copper accents exudes an easy confidence. Diners can see how a traditional kaiseki tasting menu would unfold in the menu design, yet they can choose from sections and order a la carte. The restaurant’s pedigree shows in the impressive technique on display, the wide-ranging playlist, and the faint hint of incense (details!). The staff moves like they’re born knowing points of service, seamlessly toggling between their Japanese and English-speaking customers.

Turn your attention to the cocktails, like Diyame ($16), where Japanese shochu is the heart of a highball number laced with kumquats (and ice that seemingly never melts for the entirety of a meal). Or kick off a visit with a Champagne pour (La Caravelle, $25) or a Japanese whisky.

Though it’s early days, it feels like the sweet spot for a visit is after 9 or 10 p.m., with dishes served until midnight. Also, lots of the accoutrements from your meal are for sale via Odo at Home, including chopsticks, glassware, salt, vinegars, dashi, and ceramics.

AloJapan.com