It’s wild, but great fun (Picture: Daniel Puddicombe)
I am fifteen minutes into a two-hour long train journey, when suddenly, everything goes dark.
Out of nowhere, two men in masks carrying machetes appear. One leans into my face and says something – I don’t know what – and waves the weapon around, before continuing onto the next unsuspecting passenger.
No, I haven’t found myself at the start of a horror movie, but rather, I’m on board the Kotatsu Train, travelling along Japan’s scenic Sanriku Coast.
Operated by Sanriku Railway, the train runs for around 60 miles between the towns of Miyako and Kuji. And, while I travel thousands of miles by train every year, this has got to be the strangest trip I’ve ever taken.
The USP of the train is that, rather than standard seating, passengers are bundled up under a warm kotatsu, a heated table with a blanket attached to it.
Running from December to March, its a popular tourist attraction in the region, featuring special performances (hence my machete-wielding trainmates), and you’re provided with refreshments too.
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Machete wielding demons appear (Picture: Daniel Puddicombe)
And even better, a ticket costs just £16.
As you board the Kotatsu, shoes are relegated to a box, as they’re banned for the duration of the journey. There’s a certain theatre to it all: the interior is decorated with flags featuring what look like fire-breathing dragons. And, as we depart, I can see railway staff animatedly waving us off.
I have a table of four to myself, while others are fully occupied, but the overall capacity is less than 40 people. I’m travelling in the height of winter but it’s fair to say I’m extremely comfortable under my blanket.
I also have a brilliant view of the scenery through the large windows which offer reflection-free photo opportunities.
I later learn that the machete wielding men are dressed up as Namomi demons. In the Iwate Prefecture that I’m travelling through (Japan is divided into 9 regions, which are split into 47 smaller prefectures), the story goes that Namomi go from house to house, to find misbehaving children. They won’t catch any here though, as I don’t see a single child on board, which is surprising, given the children’s TV vibe of the trip.
Throughout the journey there is running commentary: it is entirely in Japanese, without an English translation, but if anything, this adds to my enjoyment, as I genuinely have no idea what is going to happen next. What I do know, however, is I have a massive grin on my face from the silliness of it all.
I don’t go hungry, either: waiting for me at my table as I boarded is a box (in the shape of a little train) containing all sorts of sweet treats, mostly chocolates and biscuits. I’m told in the opposite direction, a full bento box is served.
The tables are cosy and heated (Picture: Daniel Puddicombe)
The train takes it time to trundle along the route and there are numerous short stops at stations to briefly get off and take in the stunning scenery, helped by the weather being on my side. Cold, yes, but there isn’t a cloud in the sky and the Pacific Ocean glints in the afternoon sunlight.
It’s during these pauses that my mind wanders away from joviality, as this region was heavily struck by the earthquake and tsunami in 2011, claiming thousands of lives.
Indeed, earlier in the day I spent the morning exploring the beautiful Jōdogahama beach just outside Miyako, and I couldn’t help but notice the sheer number of signs offering directions to high ground in the event another natural disaster occurst.
A selection of treats are served (Picture: Daniel Puddicombe)
Back onboard, and we’re treated to a rather different demonstration, as we’re introduced to one of the few remaining craftsmen in Japan who hand-shave kelp.
It’s impressive to watch, not least because the man is doing this while on a moving train, and samples are given out in paper boxes that wouldn’t look out of place at a children’s birthday party.
We waved off at the station (Picture; Daniel Puddicombe)
I’ve never tasted kelp before – it’s nice, if a little chewy and I can definitely sense the vinegar that has been added.
As if to prove my theory about the train resembling that of a seven-year old’s birthday bash, 15 minutes before arriving at the destination, the train manager (who earlier in the journey went from table to table to offer a demonstration of how to clip a ticket) announces (in Japanese, obviously) the entire train is to play a game of rock, paper, scissors.
After several rounds, the final is contested and of course the winner receives a prize.
I don’t really want to leave the weird and wonderful world of the Kotatsu Train and as I put my shoes to exit, the staff standing on the platform bow and shake my hand.
I didn’t want the journey to end (Picture: Daniel Puddicombe)
Later in the day I travel on a Shinkansen at more than 200mph: impressive, yes, but I’d much sooner be threatened by a not-so-scary demon in the dark.
Daniel Puddicombe was a guest of Japan National Tourism Organisation. The Kotatsu Train runs weekends December through to March. Adult tickets cost 3,000 yen (around £16) and can be booked online.
Finnair operates daily flights between London Heathrow and Tokyo, connecting at Helsinki.
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