David Klein/Tasting Table
It’s no secret that Nashville is one of the most electrifying food cities in the US of A. First things first: the mouthwatering, tear-inducing homegrown hot chicken — and don’t sleep on Bolton’s exceptional whiting version. Legendary “meat ‘n’ threes” such as Arnold’s Country Kitchen and Elliston Place Soda Shop offer a soul-satisfying taste of nostalgia. Over on the other end of the culinary spectrum, there’s the newly minted Michelin-starred trio of Bastion, Locust, and The Catbird Seat. And don’t forget the reliable stalwarts such as Rolf and Daughters, Etch, all that top top-tier BBQ, and, of course, the wall-to-wall honky tonks that line Broadway for all your beer-swilling, pelvis-gyrating needs.
But if you’re looking for the latest smash hits in Music City, a trip to trendy East Nashville is in order, where a pair of newcomers have become the toughest tickets in town. While Kisser — with its comfort-food focus — and the sushi-centric Kase x Noko offer wildly differing experiences, they both excel at serving up exceptional Japanese fare at a price point that’s easy to swallow.
‘Cafe culture’ meets fine dining flair
David Klein/Tasting Table
If you were to conjure up the dream restaurant to set up shop in your neighborhood, Kisser would be the ultimate manifestation. This casual charmer, courtesy of husband-and-wife duo Brian Lea and Leina Horii, became an instant hit when it opened its doors in 2023, racking up accolades including a recent Michelin Bib Gourmand distinction. Nabbing a table is as tough as ever, so reserve early (if you are aiming for a walk-in spot, you’ll have much better luck on weekdays).
While the streamlined menu of “small plates” and “bigger plates” covers straightforward classics such as curry rice and a mammoth chicken katsu, the two chefs aren’t immune from leaning into their fine dining pedigrees. For their crispy rice topping, the familiar spicy tuna takes a backseat for buttery beef tartare punctuated by a ramen-inspired house-made chili crisp.
Scratch-made is the name of the game here, from fluffy Japanese-style milk bread for the sandos to hand-rolled udon, which Horii learned to make as a child from watching her mother. The toothsome noodles come in multiple renditions, but the creamy bacon version, a sort of carbonara and chowder hybrid laced with miso to bring out the funk, is not to be missed.
Save room for dessert, notably the blueberry yuzu parfait, a brilliantly deconstructed cheesecake that will leave you satisfied, but not overstuffed. As for those frustratingly limited brunch and lunch time hours, Lea and Horri insist landlord-mandated limitations are to blame — there’s simply not enough room for storage. Apologies to the Nashville vampire scene.
Omakase for an absolute bargain
David Klein/Tasting Table
Scoring one of the 14 seats at Kase x Nomo has become one of Nashville’s most dedicated pastimes. Since chef Dung “Junior” Vo’s snug, elegant omakase den made its debut in December 2024, mere steps from its revered predecessor Noko, diners have had their trigger fingers ready at midnight CST, six weeks in advance of their reservation, to secure a coveted spot at the sushi bar for one of two nightly seatings.
Though sushi purists that are eager to drop hundreds on Tsukiji Market deep cuts may scoff at the selection, that’s not the intended audience. “For the last two and a half years at Noko, we just learned the Nashvillian’s palate and what they would love,” said Vo.
He sticks mainly to the familiar, with some personal touches that help distance the experience from the mid-priced yet soulless omakases that have been haunting New York City these last couple of years. The meal opens with a bang: mouthwatering hamachi dotted with a smoky shishito salsa, a nod to the woodfire-focus of the restaurant’s older sibling. Sweet scallop gets a Southern touch with a green pepper yuzu jelly, while a lightly seared sliver of A5 wagyu joins forces with foie gras for a bite of peak indulgence.
There’s also tuna, and plenty of it, including a mid-meal progression from lean to fatty to fattiest. You can almost hear the snickers from Gil Faizon and George St. Geegland as toro on toast and a toro handroll follow suit. Oh, and did I mention this is a $75 meal?
Just like the food menu, drinks are nicely priced — cocktails are mostly in the $11-$15 range, while playful spirit-free options start at a mere $5.
AloJapan.com