At first glance, the Kuoe Kyoto Royal Smith 90-012 claims nothing. No over-exploited century-old heritage, no flashy campaigns, no celebrity endorsements. Yet, this watch, born in Kyoto, is gradually establishing itself as a serious contender in the world of mechanical chronographs.
A solid and timeless visual signature
The Royal Smith 90-012 from Kuoe Kyoto features a 37mm cushion-shaped case, with a 14.3mm profile. This compact yet assertive geometry ensures a balanced presence on the wrist. Made from 316L stainless steel—the same material used in medical instruments—it offers excellent corrosion resistance without irritating the skin.
Case of the Royal Smith 90-012 – © Kuoe Kyoto
The watch comes with two straps: a steel integrated bracelet with tool-free micro-adjustment and a German leather (cowhide) strap, adding a more classic touch to the overall look. The adjustable end-link attachment system reinforces the perceived sturdiness of the watch.
Regarding water resistance, the watch is rated at 5 BAR (50 meters), suitable for daily use and splashes, though it’s not intended for diving.
A relief dial and excellent finish mastery
The Kuoe Kyoto Royal Smith 90-012 collection comes in six variations, with navy, silver, or salmon dials, each with either stick indices or Breguet numerals. Each dial is built in three layers, combining a grainy texture and brushed finish, allowing light to reveal subtle nuances depending on the viewing angle. The models with Breguet numerals have a retro touch directly inspired by mid-20th-century watches.
Royal Smith 90-012 with stick indices – © Kuoe Kyoto
Royal Smith 90-012 with Breguet numerals – © Kuoe Kyoto
All versions are protected by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective (AR) and anti-fingerprint (AF) coatings for better legibility and reduced fingerprint marks.
The NE86A movement: An unknown yet powerful engine
The heart of this watch is its unique proposition. The model houses the NE86A caliber, developed by TMI (Seiko Time Module). It is a bi-compax automatic chronograph with manual winding and a stop-second function. This high-beat movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring smooth second hand movement and better timekeeping precision.
Case back of the Royal Smith 90-012 – © Kuoe Kyoto
With a 30-minute totalizer and a 45-hour power reserve, the NE86A is a solid alternative to Swiss movements like the Valjoux 7750, offering a more compact format and modern architecture. Its precision ranges from -15 to +25 seconds per day, a respectable performance for a watch of this category.
Availability and price: A deliberate rarity policy
The Royal Smith 90-012 is offered at a fixed price of €2,000, regardless of the selected version. Kuoe limits each order to a single piece per customer, reinforcing the perceived exclusivity.
Sales started on November 28th at 11 AM (JST), and shipments begin on December 1st, with a two-week delay for complete order processing. Free worldwide shipping is included, with taxes covered in most countries.
Technical information summary
Element
Detail
Name
Royal Smith 90-012
Movement
TMI Cal. NE86A (Seiko), bi-compax, manual winding and stop-second
Frequency
28,800 a/h (4Hz)
Complication
30-minute chronograph
Power Reserve
45 hours
Precision
-15 to +25 sec/day
Glass
Domed sapphire with AR and AF coating
Case
Stainless steel 316L, 37 x 37 mm
Thickness
14.3 mm
Lug to Lug
44 mm
Water Resistance
5 BAR (50 m)
Straps
Steel with micro-adjustment + German leather
Accessories
Kiribako box, cloth, screwdriver, manual, 1-year warranty
Price
€2,000
Availability
Since November 28, limited to one piece per customer
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