In the summer of 2024, Steven Hagan took over as the sommelier at Grand Hyatt Tokyo — a sizable undertaking, given that the hotel operates 10 world-class dining and drinking establishments. A certified wine and sake sommelier with over a decade of experience, Hagan set out to craft an exceptional drink list, drawing on his connections with some of the world’s most prestigious vineyards and wine houses.
He also had the idea of opening the cellar to guests, in a special tasting experience he’s named “Through the Cellar Door.” Anyone staying at the hotel or dining at its sixth-floor eateries can participate; Hagan handpicks a selection of wines to try, with a theme that changes every month.
Hagan is passionate and precise while also being affable and unintimidating. Given his expertise and deep knowledge base, he can cater to the most seasoned of oenophiles, but his goal is to make the world of wine accessible to everyone. “There was a point where I knew nothing about wine,” he says. “I want to be able to bring everyone in, so they can start their wine journey — even starting from zero, just the way I did.”
Special Cuvée, Bollinger:
~¥15,000 | Champagne
Available at The Oak Door, Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s iconic steakhouse
Country: France
Region: Champagne (Aÿ and Montagne de Reims)
Why It’s Special: Bollinger is one of Champagne’s most celebrated houses; the brand is a byword for craftsmanship and timeless style. This champagne’s creamy texture and festive bubbles make it the ultimate for toasting: luxurious yet joyful and perfect for sharing.
Flavor Characteristics: Toasted brioche, baked apple, roasted almond and honeyed citrus with a long, creamy finish.
Pairings: Bollinger is a great match with buttery pastries, roast turkey with crispy skin or caviar on blinis. Its richness and fine bubbles cut through savory textures while enhancing those indulgent holiday flavors.
Puligny-Montrachet 2023, Louis Latour:
~¥27,000 | Chardonnay
Available at The French Kitchen, an all-day restaurant serving classic bistro dishes at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
Country: France
Region: Burgundy (Puligny-Montrachet in Côte de Beaune)
Why It’s Special: Puligny-Montrachet is the spiritual home of the world’s most refined chardonnay, and Louis Latour brings over 200 years of Burgundian winemaking mastery to each of its wines. The 2023 vintage expresses youthful vibrancy and crystalline purity, with a balance of freshness and richness that offers warmth without heaviness.
Flavor Characteristics: White flowers, green apple, lemon zest and hazelnut with a mineral finish.
Pairings: This wine’s precision and minerality complement rich textures while keeping your palate refreshed, making it the ideal accompaniment to a holiday meal of butter-poached lobster, roast chicken with herbs or creamy gratin.
Artemis, Stag’s Leap:
~¥30,000 | Cabernet Sauvignon
Available at The Oak Door, Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s iconic steakhouse
Country: United States
Region: Napa Valley, California (Stag’s Leap District)
Why It’s Special: Artemis pays homage to the Greek goddess of the hunt: a fitting name for a wine that captures the grace, power and precision of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Produced by the estate that won the 1976 Judgment of Paris, a legendary blind tasting that saw California triumph over France, Artemis embodies the legacy that put California wine on the world stage. Blending fruit from both Stag’s Leap District and select Napa Valley vineyards, it strikes the ideal balance between strength and elegance.
Flavor Characteristics: Blackberry, cassis, cocoa and graphite with velvety tannins and a long, structured finish.
Pairings: This cabernet sauvignon’s dark fruit, refined tannins and savory spice perfectly complement rich meats and roasted flavors. Enjoy it with prime rib, grilled steak or lamb with rosemary.
Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Eisele Vineyard:
~¥40,000 | Sauvignon Blanc
Available at The Oak Door, Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s iconic steakhouse
Country: United States
Region: Napa Valley, California (Calistoga)
Why It’s Special: From one of Napa’s most historic and biodynamic vineyards, this sauvignon blanc combines Old-World finesse with New-World ripeness. Barrel-fermented and aged on lees, it offers texture and depth rarely seen in the variety. Its brightness and elegance pair beautifully with festive starters, bringing freshness to the table between richer courses.
Flavor Characteristics: Lemon curd, white peach and grapefruit zest with creamy minerality and subtle vanilla spice.
Pairings: This sauvignon blanc has a lively acidity and creamy texture that elevates seafood and lighter dishes. It’s ideal for decadent holiday dining on fresh oysters, grilled prawns or goat cheese salads.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Vigneto Bellavista” 2015, Castello di Ama:
~¥75,000 | Sangiovese
Available at Maduro, Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s bar and jazz lounge
Country: Italy
Region: Tuscany (Gaiole in Chianti Classico)
Why It’s Special: Produced only in exceptional vintages from a single historic vineyard, Bellavista represents the pinnacle of sangiovese expression. It’s a wine of elegance, heritage and deep connection to Tuscan terroir.
Flavor Characteristics: Red cherry, dried rose, cedar and earthy spice with a long, savory finish.
Pairings: This Chianti Classico has a great balance of acidity and depth. It brings warmth and rustic charm to any meal, and particularly to hearty Italian cuisine — perfect for pairing with truffle pasta, roast pork or tomato-based braised dishes.
Unico 2009, Vega Sicilia:
~¥220,000 | Tempranillo
Available at Maduro, Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s bar and jazz lounge
Country: Spain
Region: Ribera del Duero
Why It’s Special: Vega Sicilia’s Unico is Spain’s crown jewel. Aged nearly a decade before release, it unites immense power with velvety finesse. The 2009 vintage is both expressive and timeless, a testament to true craftsmanship and patience. It’s the ultimate statement wine: luxurious, contemplative and meant to be shared.
Flavor Characteristics: Black plum, fig, balsamic, cedar and tobacco with silky tannins and profound persistence.
Pairings: From roast lamb and dry-aged beef to dark chocolate desserts, this wine’s complexity and savory depth will bring the best out of rich, slow-cooked holiday dishes.
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