Behind the Counter at a #1 Japanese Pizza Restaurant

Behind the Counter at a #1 Japanese Pizza Restaurant

The other day I realized
the best food in Japan isn’t Japanese, it’s pizza. There are countless pizza restaurants in Japan,
but this one stands out from the rest. This is Sisiliya, rated Yokohama’s number one
pizza shop, serving authentic Neapolitan pizza. But how is it the best? Why do so many people love it? And seriously, can a Japanese man
actually make pizza better than the rest of the world? Well, I’m going to have to go
deep into this kitchen to get my answers. Today I’m in Yokohama,
just right outside of Tokyo, and I wanted to take you behind the counter 
at this local Japanese pizza shop to show you how it’s all done in this country. Good morning. Good morning! Nice to meet you. That’s the owner, Atsushi-san. Do you always come in this early? Around this time. Alone? Workers will come later but I’m willing to come alone. I love the spirit! So Atsushi-san used to work as a salesman
for a major Japanese beverage company. But one day, while visiting Napoli,
a bite of pizza would forever change his life! He returned home, quit his job,
and flew back to Italy to fiercely study at a local pizzeria. For many years, he honed his skills and was eventually honored by the Neapolitan Pizzaioli Association. With the title “Pizzaiolo Maestro,”
master pizza maker. So, what are you doing? We made this dough yesterday
and let it rise slowly in the fridge overnight. I bring them out at this time
to slowly increase their temperature for when we open. As the master works, he studies the dough. Even with a stable refrigerator temperature,
each ball rises in its own way. With a skilled touch of more than 25 years, he reads these subtle variations, timing them precisely
to craft the perfect dough. [Music] This side was at the front of the fridge
and this side was at the back. Can you tell the sizes are different? Uh, I guess? I adjust the dough to ensure consistent quality
depending on if it’s used at 5 pm, 7 pm or 9 pm. Damn!
You go that far? Of course. [Music] So when’s your day off? I’m off on Sundays. Oh, what do you 
do when you’re off? Afer I do some prep here,
I usually go golfing. He says that he stopped playing for 30 years
as he was super busy with his store, but he started again. Now he wakes up early every morning
to practice and train before he comes in. So, do you have a family? I have a wife. Quite a long time. Oh, like 20 years or something? Maybe. You don’t remember? I know the anniversary is July 9th though. Nice!
What does she do? She works too. He says she runs 
a curated clothing boutique nearby. Hey, you can go on lunch dates with her! Dates are only on Sundays. [Laugh]
That’s cool. Good morning!
A worker is here! [Music] So, where in Italy did you learn to craft pizza? I was on a mountain in Sicily. The Japanese tour guide he had
on his first trip to Italy happened to be related to an Italian pizza chef. It was meant to be. Wow, that’s a crazy connection! [Music] Now that all the workers are here,
they start with their individual task. This gives Atsushi-san 
a little breather to check today’s reservations. [Music] Hi! How long
have you been working here? 4 to 5 months. Oh, and how did you find the place? I was interested in pizza…
I’m actually from the countryside. I heard this place was famous,
so I came in for an interview. Cool, so what do you like about the job? I can see customers’ reactions to each dish,
which teaches me a lot. Nice! And what do you do
when you’re not here? I’m always at home. Okay, thanks! Wow, you chop fast! Yeah, I guess. I cut them everyday, so… How long have you worked here? It’s been about 10 years… How did you get started? My family runs a ryokan hotel. When I was asked to take over our ryokan
I got my first experience in the food industry. Where are you from? I’m from Niigata. The city Shiozawa-machi,
which is next to Echigo Yuzawa. He says that the tourism industry in their ski resort area shut down during COVID
and he was forced to consider other jobs. Can you ski or snowboard? Yeah, but I injured my leg so I stopped. It happened skiing. Oh, what happened? I tore my medial ligament. Ouch! So tell me,
what’s the most important thing when cooking? For me, thinking about customers when cooking
is the most important thing. Great answer! Thanks. [Music] Oh, he’s already working
on the dough for tomorrow! Apparently, he’s even developed
his own signature blend. 4 different types of flour
combined to achieve his ideal taste, aroma, color, and texture. Next, he prepares the yeast… …carefully recording
its quantity and fermentation each day. By constantly reviewing his notes, he adjusts to the ever-changing environment, ensuring the perfect balance
for the day’s dough. Kind of giving me ‘scientific researcher’ vibes. Do you use 
a special yeast or something? I created my own yeast blend. I’ve been nurturing and replenishing it
for over 20 years. Even in Italy chefs don’t usually do this. Really? Japanese work ethic 
applied to an Italian craft! Hey, do you mind if I talk to more of your workers? Go ahead, everyone wants to talk to you. [Laugh] So how long
have you been working here? About 10 years. Oh, how’d you get started? I loved coming here when I was a student, so… Oh, that’s great! [Music] [Music] Nice!
It seems like the yeast is ready to go. So, how’d you meet your wife? [Tick-tock] You forgot? I remember. She used to work near my old job. Oh, you met her before making pizza? Correct. How’d she take it when you told her
you wanted to make pizza for a living? She was like, sure. He says that it was a time
when he was the most broke in his life, but she still supported his dream. This is one of the reasons he married her
and why he trusts her so deeply. Do you travel to Italy with your wife often? Nope. Seriously? Who do you go with then! With employees. He says that, before COVID, he used to take his team on a yearly trip to Italy in order for them to study pizza. For him, tasting and experiencing firsthand the local pizza and cultural origins of their craft is the best way to get inspired and it serves as a reminder that every pizza they make carries a piece of tradition with it. [Music] It’s demanding in physical work, particularly when it comes to kneading the dough, but he finds reward bringing joy to each customer he serves. Making about 120 pizzas a day, often selling out – especially on the weekends. But his workload once came at a heavy cost. 6 years ago he collapsed from exhaustion
and was rushed to the hospital, forcing him to rethink everything: his health, his limits, his life. He even got a personal trainer. For him, pizza isn’t just a job. It’s a passion. And these changes ensure that he could pursue it for years to come. [Music] [Music] As the dough rests,
the team turns to preparing toppings and side dishes, keeping in mind that
a lot of work still needs to be done. [Music] Atsushi-san says when he started to study the 
art of crafting pizza, it seemed so easy. But the deeper he studied, the more he realized that even
the smallest adjustments in the process could easily change the final result. It was then that he realized pizza is a lifelong craft. Every day he must take into account his ingredients
as well as the environment around him. And only an experienced master can 
produce a consistent pizza each and every day. [Music] Around 2pm,
3 hours before the shop opens, they start the oven. Neapolitan pizza is usually baked at 400 to 500°C, so it takes time to heat up to that temperature. [Music] Oh, he’s baking a cake for the shop’s tiramisu! [Music] [Music] Nice! The ‘makanai’ – shop-provided meal for the workers –
is ready. It’s a big plate. They ARE big. Pizza plates. Oh, that makes sense. [Music] Workers usually take turns to cook the meal and the dish changes every day. Today it’s ‘karaage’ curry rice. It looks so good. How is it? The restaurant is open until 11pm, so after lunch,
the workers take a nap just before their afternoon work. A pretty common practice in Japanese restaurant culture. [Music] Were you able to sleep? Yes. Good morning. [Music] 30 minutes just before opening, the staff get even busier preparing the shop. [Music] Although not officially open yet, he’s already started making pizza for deliveries. [Music] Traditional Neapolitan pizza
is baked in a wood-fired oven, just like it’s done here. The secret to its light yet moist texture
is the quick baking time – only about 90 seconds in the oven – which locks in the aroma and moisture inside the dough, reducing any dryness. To say the least, Atsushi-san has spent a lifetime
mastering this technique and is one of the reasons why
his freshly-made pizzas are like no other in this world. [Music] 10 minutes before 5pm, customers are already walking in to get seated. [Music] It’s not even 5 yet, but it’s already busy! The party has begun. You know this place is legit when 
seats are filled before the place is even open! Most of which, if not all,
are customers with reservations. [Music] Beautiful! They’re making their margarita pizza, the shop’s most popular dish. It’s made with tomato sauce, basil, a rich mozzarella di bufala, parmigiano reggiano, and finished off with a drizzle of pure olive oil. The cheese is even flown in fresh from Caserta, a region just outside of Naples. Marked with crispy edges with a lightly chewy crust, it’s a culinary experience unto itself. [Music] Atsushi-san has worked tirelessly
through the decades in Japan to build the team around him
in order to serve his signature handcrafted pizza. But it wasn’t always this smooth. When he first started,
the first three years were exceptionally difficult. With little money,
he was forced to open for longer hours starting at lunchtime
all the way until 2am to make ends meet. It was mentally and physically draining for him, but he didn’t give up on his dream and persevered through it all, eventually having enough success
where he could make a living with reduced shop hours. With more than a quarter century
dedicating his life to his craft, and despite all that he’s had to endure, Atsushi-san has truly made a name for himself 
among top pizza chefs. He’s taken a cuisine born in another country and infused it with 
his own Japanese work ethic – and passion – creating a pizza celebrated
not only among the best in Japan, but among the finest in the world. And that’s another one in the books! If you want to try this place for yourself,
I’ll be sure to leave a link in the description!

Behind the counter at the Best Japanese Pizza Restaurant. This is Sisiliya, a top-rated pizza shop, known for serving authentic Neapolitan pizza. In this video, we step inside the kitchen to watch master pizzaiolo Atsushi-san at work and discover the story behind Japan’s number one pizza restaurant. Atsushi-san’s journey began far from the kitchen. Once a salesman for a major Japanese beverage company, his life changed with a single bite of pizza in Napoli. Inspired, he left his job, moved to Italy, and trained in a traditional pizzeria. His dedication earned him the title of Pizzaiolo Maestro from the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, a recognition of his mastery in the craft. From hand-selecting a unique blend of four different flours to create the perfect dough, to carefully tracking his yeast fermentation for more than 20 years, Atsushi-san creates each pizza with care. Even the weather and humidity guide his process, as he adjusts the dough daily to achieve perfect texture, aroma, and flavor. With more than 25 years of experience, he has refined his skills to create consistently world-class pizza that blends Italian tradition with Japanese precision. This isn’t just pizza making—it’s a lifelong craft. Atsushi-san has built Siciliya into one of the most celebrated pizza restaurants in Japan, earning recognition from locals and food lovers around the world.

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