I was recently in Tokyo for the Inspiration Show, where the world’s best denim and workwear collectors meet for two days. It has been said millions of dollars changes hands during the event.
Brit Eaton (a.k.a Indiana Jeans), together with Japanese vintage specialist and seller Akira from Mushroom Japan, bought to the show one of the most exciting pieces—the Tombstone, a duck canvas pant that many believe to be the oldest found garment by Levi’s.
The Tombstone is made with duck canvas, a 2×2 weave first used by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in their first overall. The duck canvas variant is featured on the 1873 patent though indigo twill was used soon after. The earliest example of the Levi’s leather patch features the phrase, “duck and denim clothing” and this is well before the two-horse patch from 1887.
Eaton was responsible for discovering the 9Rivet, the oldest Levi’s riveted denim jean which Levi’s says dates to 1873-1874. And now he has, in his hands, this rare pair of duck canvas pants, which he acquired from an auction in Bozeman, Montana. The piece came from a museum sale in Tombstone, Ariz.
At the show, Eaton said he believed Tombstone was a transition piece by Levi’s from May 1873, as it features two Levi’s branded rivets and some unbranded rivets. For sure it’s very unusual, but these early models changed every few months, depending on what the miners needed.
For sure it’s very unusual, but these early models changed every few months, depending on what the miners needed.
The auction house had a $7,000-$10,000 reserve on the duck canvas pants. With many other collectors knowing about the sale, Eaton wasted no time and went directly to the auction house. He told them that in past he bought similar vintage duck canvas clothing (not from Levi’s) for $10,000 to $15,000 and said their estimate was low. Eaton then offered $50,000 in cash to take the auction down. Apprehensively the auction house agreed, and Eaton walked out the auction house with the pants.
Eaton knew the pants could sell for upwards of $200,000 to the right collector. I also heard Levi’s was aware of the jean and was interested in buying it before the auction.
Documenting and theories
I had 20 minutes at the Inspiration show to document and photograph the pant in detail—mostly because I know it will likely go to a private collector and never be seen again.
Mohsin Sajid at the Inspiration show.
Mohsin Sajid
There are two unique features which make the Tombstone special.
The first is the ‘high’ position of the Levi’s arcuate but more importantly its “bullhorn” design—a term I coined at the event and perhaps a nod to the strong western motif that was happening in San Francisco during this period. Could this be the earliest known version of Levi’s arcuate before it was standardized?
The pant has a rare “bullhorn” arcuate.
Mohsin Sajid
The second detail is the rivets, which are unbranded rivets except for two of them, one on the waistband and the other on the crotch. The first Levi’s riveted pants/overalls and the ones Davis made in his Nevada tailoring store had unbranded copper rivets. Then Levi’s switched to rivets that were branded with “LS & Co. SF Pat May 1873” and they left “Pat May 1873” until 1890.
The pant features branded and unbranded rivets.
Mohsin Sajid
A side tool pocket is on the front of jean, which is believed to be an addition in the mid-1870s that lasted until 1890. The center back leather patch also dates this to early model.
I asked Tracey Panek, the historian at Levi Strauss & Co., for comment but I’ve had not received an official response as of writing this article. I asked many others denim collectors for further comment on the Tombstone.
Denim historian Mike Harris said it is most likely from 1876 based on details like riveted cinch backs, and tools pockets. However, he said the Tombstone looks like to have machine buttonholes, which would push the date to 1882-1883. He also mentioned that Levi’s stopped using duck canvas from mid to late 1880.
Canadian denim tailor and vintage sewing machine collector Ben Viapana, commented that he and his tailor father use period correct vintage buttonhole machines in their work, including the earliest Reece 101 and Singer 99w buttonhole machines, which is documented in early Levi’s production.
Viapana mentioned it was normal for many workers to ask their wives to remake the buttonholes, especially if they were not done correctly. He added the buttonholes on the Tombstone are all different, making them “for sure” handmade buttonholes. This aligns with the earlier 1872-1873 date and well before 1883 patent of the machine buttonholes.
Much of our knowledge about key Levi’s sewing machines comes from a newspaper ad seeking 50 female sewers to bring their own Singer No2, Grover and Baker machines with them when they are hired.
Examples of sewing machines used by Levi’s.
Mohsin Sajid
To me personally, the buttonholes looked handmade. If this was an early Levi’s, it most likely could have been sewn by Davis. But another theory is if it is machine buttonhole, it was sewn on Brother 99w—not a Reece 101—as its discreet keyhole shape aligns more with earlier Brother 99w machines.
Examples of buttonholes.
Mohsin Sajid
Dean Hashimoto, a denim collector and fellow academic, doubts the Tombstone is Levi’s. Instead, he said it could be from Great IXL, a workwear brand that Levi’s allowed to use rivets up until 1890. Hashimoto thinks this might be the reason for the bullhorn arcuate.
Early documents from Great IXL.
Mohsin Sajid
Harris found a denim scrap down a mine shaft in 2008 with the very same bullhorn arcuate. The scrap, which was sold to Hong Kong-based denim collector Gary Kwan, has no rivets as they disintegrated. There is also no evidence of Levi’s branding. Harris showed it to the brand in 2012 but was told its not Levi’s.
Denim scrap Harris found down a mine shaft in 2008.
Mohsin Sajid
Unsolved mystery
In Tokyo, Eaton emphasized his theory that the Tombstone may be the very first pair of Levi’s jeans to feature the patent. He said the mix of branded and unbranded rivets suggest that the jeans were made around the time the rivet patent was introduced, when Levi’s was likely using up older, unstamped rivets alongside the newly patented ones—making them a true transition jean.
The Tombstone
Mohsin Sajid
Eaton also reminded me that every workwear brand in 1872 began to use rivets after hearing the success of Levi’s, until Levi’s got the patent on May 20, 1873.
Like Hashimoto, I think it’s more likely from another brand that was allowed to use Levi’s rivets like Great IXL. However, a part of me wants the bullhorn shape to be Levi’s original back pocket arcuate.
This gives a whole new perception about the inspiration of the design. My hope is for Levi’s recognize this pant. I also hope Levi’s Vintage Clothing reproduces the duck canvas pant, especially with the bullhorn arcuate and two branded rivets.
Mohsin Sajid is a U.K.-based denim designer, lecturer, historian and publisher. He is also the creative director and owner of the denim design consultancy, Endrime.
AloJapan.com