The grape no one outside Japan has ever heard of

Despite efforts by Japanese trade officials and passionate sommeliers, international recognition of Hokkaido’s Yamasachi remains minimal. Rebecca Lo investigates what is being done to raise its profile.

The grape no one outside this Japanese prefecture has ever heard of Yamasachi grapes at Tokachi Wine’s vineyards

At a Japanese External Trade Organisation (JETRO) panel discussion featuring wine from Hokkaido held during Restaurant Bar Hong Kong (RBHK) 2025, sommelier Abe Masahisa introduced the merits of a 2022 vintage of Yamasachi wine produced by Tokachi Wine.

Situated in Ikeda Town in eastern Hokkaido, Tokachi is a boutique winery and one of just 10 out of the northern Japanese island’s 73 wine producers cultivating Yamasachi, a local grape.

Yamasachi came about when Japan first began exploring cultivation of hybrid Old World grapes on its own turf. Ikeda Town was earmarked for viticulture experimentation as it boasted one of the few government-operated wineries in Japan.

After the commercial failure of French hybrid Kiyomi due to the intense labour necessary to manually tend to its vines, Ikeda Town began developing its own varietals that could withstand the extreme climatic conditions of northern Japan. Several decades and more than 20,000 crossbreeds, cultivation experiments and vinification tests later, Yamasachi emerged as the standout grape in 1978.

“It can withstand temperatures as low as -35°C, and offers excellent colour and aroma,” noted Tadashi Furuhata, chief of JETRO’s Hokkaido office. In 2006, it was officially registered as a grape variety by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture. The grape was only officially recognised by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) in 2020.

Despite the fact that Yamasachi boasts nearly five decades of cultivation history, most people outside of Japan’s northern island have never heard of the grape, much less tried the wine. This has, in turn, become a vicious cycle; the lack of knowledge leading to a lack of demand.

Masahisa is founder of non-profit Wine Cluster Hokkaido, which has worked to market the island’s wine over the past decade. He explained that “production is limited because the areas where Yamasachi can be cultivated are quite limited. It is often only introduced in colder regions of Hokkaido where grapes like Kerner or Pinot Noir cannot grow. Additionally, most wineries in Hokkaido have little to no experience in vinifying Yamasachi.”

The grape no one outside this Japanese prefecture has ever heard of Abe Masahisa at Restaurant Bar HK 2025 in HKCEC. Photo by Rebecca Lo

But he was optimistic about its potential. “In colder regions, Yamasachi could be used to produce sparkling wines in the Blanc de Noirs style; ice wine; or even vin de liqueur,” he said. “In warmer areas, if grown to full ripeness, it has the potential to become a rich and powerful red wine. In the context of climate change, I believe Yamasachi’s inherent resilience derived from its wild grape ancestry and its naturally high acidity could become major advantages. There’s a wide range of possibilities for this varietal.”

Efforts have been made to raise awareness of the grape and its wines, but it remains little-known outside of Hokkaido.

JETRO has been working closely with advocates such as Masahisa to spread the possibilities of Yamasachi internationally. “We have been conducting initiatives over the past three years aimed at expanding overseas market access and increasing international awareness,” said Furuhata.

But with production so small, and Yamasachi-producing wineries tending to be small, this can be a challenge. “While it would be ideal for wineries to promote and sell their products directly overseas, this is often difficult in Hokkaido where many producers are small scale boutique wineries,” Furuhata explained.

After concentrated efforts in 2024 promoting the grape and other Hokkaido wines in Singapore, JETRO shifted its focus to Hong Kong late in the same year. Along with its presence at RBHK 2025, its endeavours included Hokkaido winery tours for Hong Kong sommeliers and importers along with tastings and meetings for on-trade at Club Batard and Ando.

“Future activities will be coordinated with the Hokkaido government and other stakeholders,” said Furuhata.