In Japan’s Okinawa, You’ll Find Few American Tourists—but Plenty of Americana

Okinawa, an archipelago that stretches from just below Japan’s main islands almost to Taiwan, means different things to different people. For many Japanese visitors, Okinawa, with its white stretches of sand and tropical climate, makes for an ideal, no-fuss beach vacation. For Americans, it is a name from history, the site of one of World War II’s fiercest battles—and still home to a large U.S. military population. And for Okinawans, it is a homeland, a place with its own language, culture and cuisine separate from the rest of Japan.

Given the islands’ split personality, a visit can induce whiplash: One moment you’re under palm trees listening to the delicate plucking of sanshin string music, the next you’re driving through a stretch of shops and fast-food joints more nostalgically American than most corners of the U.S.

On a recent trip, I realized that this complexity, even dissonance, makes Okinawa one of the most fascinating and unusual places to visit in Japan right now. Bonus: Few Americans and Europeans go, so it feels much less congested than hot spots like Kyoto.

On this visit, my fourth, I focused on Okinawa Honto, Okinawa’s largest island, a three-hour flight from Tokyo and home to great beaches and to Naha, the capital city. When I first encountered Naha, 20 years ago, it felt like a one-street resort town, littered with souvenir shops and steakhouses.