Last week, Shimpei Mikami’s label Star made its debut at Dover Street Market London, taking over the concept retailer’s t-shirt space with a range of graphic tees. To some, the Japanese designer’s t-shirts may read as understated — emblazoned at the center of the chest with his palm-sized designs. However, Star is deeply intertwined with Mikami’s coming of age outside of Tokyo, the period when the designer first encountered the subversive attitudes of punk music and avant-garde Japanese cinema.
Upon scrolling through Star’s Instagram page, one will discover a vast archive: Japanese photography, movie stills, print spreads, and original artwork by the founder. Mikami’s handmade collages and graphic treatments reflect the overlapping influences of varied realms, ranging from rock music, cult films, vintage magazines, and Tokyo’s skate community.
In conjunction with highlighting the areas where Japanese society thrives, Star also turns its gaze to less comfortable topics like mental illness, violence, and social alienation. But it is exactly in these areas of tension where Mikami crafted his distinct visual language. “Magic happens when something that you wouldn’t imagine gets mixed,” he explained.
In conversation with Hypebeast, Shimpei Mikami discusses the subcultural backdrop that informed his aesthetic and what it means to be stocked among Japanese design legends at Dover Street Market.
How did you arrive at the name “Star”?
I’ve always liked star graphics on vintage t-shirts. One of my biggest inspirations was the star logo from Menace Skateboards. When I designed a large star graphic with a Japanese actress’ face inside, I came across the book cover of Star by Yukio Mishima. I was drawn to the aesthetic of the old English font used on the cover, and it really inspired me. I sampled that logo and eventually decided to use “Star” as the brand name.
Why did you choose graphic t-shirts as the main medium for expressing your vision? Are there other product categories you’d like to explore in the future?
Designing t-shirts felt like the most accessible and economically feasible medium to start with. I also love the idea that people can wear and own the art themselves. To me, graphic t-shirts are one of the most powerful ways to show your style and express yourself. I’ve also had a long-time passion for collecting vintage tees, so starting with them felt very authentic. I draw a lot of inspiration from traditional graphic design, and I’m keen to continue working not just in fashion, but also in publications and typography.
What are some of your favorite sources to gather inspiration for new designs?
As a designer, you’re constantly researching and sourcing. A lot of my inspiration comes from old magazines, books, vintage clothing, album artwork, rave flyers, and film posters.
You often share personal sketchbook pages and handmade collages on Instagram. How does your personal art practice inform the direction of Star?
Start with your hands, always D.I.Y. Take the reference/sample from anything you can grab and try to create something new.
You also often share scans of vintage Japanese magazine spreads and ads. Do you have a favorite Japanese print publication, either existing or past?
“Fantasy Museum: People of the Inugami Family” by Shuji Terayama, “Coa” (Japanese graphic design magazine), and IDEA (Japanese graphic design and typography magazine).
Could you expand on the significance of Japan’s underground cultures to Star’s aesthetic?
The Japanese avant-garde movement, the 90s–00s streetwear scene (Ura-Harajuku), Japanese tattoos, hardcore music, hashiriya (street racing), and bosozoku (biker gangs) all play a role in shaping Star’s aesthetic.
What subcultures did you find yourself surrounded by coming of age near Tokyo?
I grew up in a suburban area of Tokyo where there wasn’t much of a visible subculture scene. I spent a lot of time discovering new music, especially from British and American artists. I was more of a band kid growing up, and only started skating when I was 20 – but skate culture became a huge part of my world and heavily influences my work today.
Are there particular works (film, art, music) that had a major impact on your style?
Even though I started skating later than most kids, skateboarding has been a huge influence on my style. I got into punk music and was inspired by punk zines, as well as metal, shoegaze, and jungle – sounds that are noisy but also melodic and emotional. I also draw a lot from Japanese avant-garde art and photography. Takeshi Kitano’s Yakuza films are another big inspiration.
You’ve mentioned Shüji Terayama as a core inspiration. What about this artist’s work resonates with you, and how does that show up in your brand?
I’m drawn to his aesthetic – weird, dark, but very experimental and unique. His work is provocative and challenges traditional Japanese norms. I especially love his D.I.Y. photo collages, like ripped photos stitched back together. For one of my collections, I worked closely with photographer Cole Flynn Quirke, and we approached the imagery in a similar style to Terayama. His film Throw Away Your Books, Rally in the Streets gave me the confidence to express something personal. I’m also a fan of his books.
Are there Japanese designers or brands whose approach to graphics you have been particularly drawn to?
I love the work of Jun Takahashi (Undercover) and Nobuhiko Kitamura (Hysteric Glamour) in particular – both of which have been stocked in Dover Street Market.
Now that you’re based in London, has the English capital city inspired you in new ways? What about the direction of your brand?
Yes. The fact that London is a mixed, multicultural city and everyone has a different background changed my perspective. It reminded me of how important it is to be proud of your background and express it. However, I feel like magic happens when something that you wouldn’t imagine gets mixed, especially in the fashion and music scene here. The lookbook from this collection and the last collection shows the mix of my creativity, models, and photographers. London’s very vibrant; the fast-paced lifestyle and constantly meeting new interesting people has stimulated my passion towards Star.
Given that DSM was co-founded by the legendary Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, what does it mean for you to be welcomed into the DSM family as a Japanese designer?
I’m so happy to be part of the DSM family. I truly appreciate how DSM supports and elevates young designers and emerging brands — it means a lot to be included in that.
Star is now available at Dover Street Market London with a T-Shirt Space takeover, and on the DSML E-SHOP in 6 styles.
AloJapan.com