Kyushu Road Trip: Discovering Nagasaki’s Past & Present; Hidden Christians, Atomic Bomb Museum

Kyushu Road Trip: Discovering Nagasaki’s Past & Present; Hidden Christians, Atomic Bomb Museum

Hello everybody! Welcome to another exciting 
episode of Gibbon Travelogue. I am Lilian. And I am Gilbert And, today, we are in… Nagasaki. As you know, Nagasaki is one 
of the big cities in Kyushu. And it is full of history. We have the atomic bomb dropped on this 
place and we also have the hidden Christians. Are you ready to explore this place, Lilian? Yes! Ok, let’s go! This way! This is the fifth and final video 
of our Road Trip in Kyushu series. In our last episode, we were in Kumamoto, 
where we explored the mighty Mount Aso, Kumamoto Castle, and also the spectacular Takachiho Gorge. Now, we continue westward, into a city 
unlike any other in Japan: Nagasaki. Nagasaki is unique. For centuries, it was Japan’s window to 
the outside world, receiving traders, missionaries, and ideas from 
other parts of Asia and Europe. It was here that Christianity first entered Japan, sparking both mass conversions 
and fierce persecution. It was here that foreign trade 
and Western knowledge filtered into a closed-off Japan during the Edo period. And tragically, it was here that the 
second atomic bomb fell on August 9, 1945. Our first stop is the monastery built by St. 
Maximilian Kolbe, Seibo-no-Kishi 聖母の騎士 Monastery. St Maximillian Kolbe was a Polish Franciscan 
friar who came to Japan in the 1930s. He later returned to Poland, where 
during the Second World War, he offered his life in Auschwitz, volunteering 
to die in place of another prisoner. He was canonised in 1982 by Pope John Paul 
II and always remembered for his words: “Without sacrifice, there is no love.” A little miracle here. When Maximilian Kolbe was here in Japan, he 
decided to build the monastery on a hillside facing out of Nagasaki, against the advice of 
locals who favoured facing the city centre. That decision proved providential. 
When the atomic bomb detonated, the monastery was shielded by the mountains, 
even though it laid within the blast zone. When it was founded, Seibo no 
Kishi consisted of a chapel, monastery buildings and a printing workshop. Both monastery and chapel still 
exist today and are open to visitors. Within the monastery grounds, there is a small 
museum dedicated to St. Kolbe’s mission in Japan. Up in the chapel, there is a relic of 
St. Maximilian, taken from his beard which was shaved in 1940 before he 
was arrested and sent to Auschwitz. Pope St. John Paul II visited Seibo 
no Kishi Monastery in February 1981 during his apostolic journey to 
Japan and prayed at this chapel. From faith, we turn to devastation. The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum is one 
of the most sobering places in Japan. The Museum, opened in 1996, is not just a collection of exhibits 
but a place of remembrance and warning. It tells the story of August 9, 1945, when, at 11:02 in the morning, Nagasaki 
was reduced to ruins in an instant. Out of a population of 240,000, around 75,000 
were killed immediately or soon after, and another 75,000 were left injured, many suffering 
lifelong effects from burns and radiation. The museum begins with fragments of 
daily life, roof tiles warped by heat, a child’s lunchbox reduced to charred remains, a rosary fused by the blast. Each object represents a 
life, suddenly interrupted. One of the most haunting items is a clock, its 
hands frozen at the exact moment of detonation. Photographs, models, and survivor testimonies help visitors understand not only the scale of 
destruction, but also the human suffering. Survivors describe the firestorms, 
the black radioactive rain, and the silence of a city where 
tens of thousands had vanished. The final sections of the museum look outward, 
toward the global threat of nuclear weapons today. Exhibits stress that Nagasaki should be the 
last place ever to endure such devastation. There is one thing though that is quite glaring; Japan’s role as an aggressor 
in the war is totally left unspoken. That evening, we visit a prominent shopping 
mall in Nagasaki called Youme Town Yumesaito. And dinner is at a place 
called Ishigamaya Hamburger. After dinner, we check into the Hilton Nagasaki, getting some good rest before 
another day of exploration. The next morning, we visit the 
Monument of the 26 Martyrs of Japan. The Monument of the 26 Martyrs of Japan 
stands on Nishizaka Hill overlooking Nagasaki. In February, 1597, twenty-six Christians, 
six foreign missionaries and twenty Japanese believers were executed here under the 
orders of the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Among them was the Jesuit seminarian Paul 
Miki, who preached forgiveness from the cross, declaring that he bore no hatred for his captors 
and that he rejoiced in dying for Christ. The monument, unveiled in 1962, features bronze figures of the 
martyrs mounted against a stone wall. Their arms are raised not only 
in crucifixion, but in witness. At its centre, Paul Miki stands tall, still 
proclaiming the faith that could not be silenced. I have to say, it is quite a 
touching experience reading through the names of those who were 
persecuted during those trying times. Beneath the hilltop monument lies the Museum 
of the 26 Martyrs of Japan, a place that preserves the memory of Christianity’s 
early and turbulent history in Japan. Also opened in 1962, the museum was built to 
coincide with the canonisation of the martyrs. Inside, the exhibits trace 
the story of Christianity’s arrival in Japan with St. Francis Xavier in 1549. It also traces Christianity rapid growth 
among samurai and commoners alike, and the subsequent waves of persecution. On display are original letters from 
missionaries, vestments and chalices smuggled into the country, and fragile manuscripts 
of catechisms translated into Japanese. There are also the fumi-e, 
bronze images of Christ or Mary which people were forced to step 
on to prove they were not Christians. We also see notices offering silver coins for 
those who reported on priests and believers. One of the most moving sections is 
dedicated to the martyrs themselves. Relics, portraits, and historical records 
tell the story of the twenty-six men and boys who were marched from Kyoto to 
Nagasaki and crucified on this hill. The museum also sheds light on the 
hidden Christians or Kakure Kirishitan, who carried their faith underground 
for more than two centuries. They disguised their prayers as Buddhist chants, 
venerated images of Mary disguised as the Buddhist Goddess Guanyin or the Kannon, and passed 
down their beliefs orally from generation to generation until they could reveal 
themselves again in the 19th century. For us Catholics, the hill of the 26 martyrs 
is sacred ground, a place of pilgrimage. And for all visitors, it is a 
place which reminds us of the resilience of belief in the face of oppression. On the same Nishizaka Hill, the very site 
where the twenty-six martyrs were crucified, stands the Church of St. Philip Nishizaka. Built in 1962, the church is 
named after St. Philip of Jesus, a Mexican Franciscan friar and 
one of the twenty-six martyrs. Much of the funding for its construction 
came from donations by the Mexican faithful. Designed by architect Kenji Imai, the church 
bears the unmistakable influence of Antonio Gaudí, the Spanish master whose works include 
the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Inside, the church is serene 
and filled with light. The whitewashed interior 
provides a sense of purity, while the stained glass windows cast a soft 
glow that evokes both peace and reverence. Because of its unique design and its location at 
the heart of Japan’s Christian history, the Church of St. Philip has been officially designated a 
Landscape Important Building by Nagasaki City. Next, we head to Urakami Cathedral, 
once the largest church in East Asia. Standing today as one of the 
great landmarks of Nagasaki, Urakami Cathedral embodies both the long suffering 
and the resilience of Japan’s Christian community. The story of Urakami begins 
in the late 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries brought 
Christianity to the region. Urakami village quickly became 
a stronghold of the faith, but with the ban on Christianity, 
believers here went underground. When the prohibition was finally 
lifted in 1873, 250 years later, thousands of Christians 
openly returned to the Church. Their first great desire was 
to build a proper cathedral. After three decades of construction 
work, the original Urakami Cathedral, with its red-brick Romanesque 
structure, was completed in 1925. Tragedy struck on August 9, 1945, when the atomic bomb detonated less 
than 500 metres from the cathedral. The blast reduced the cathedral to rubbles, 
killing two priests and 8,000 parishioners. In 1959, the community rebuilt the cathedral, this time in reinforced concrete 
and much simpler than the original. The Cathedral was renovated in 1980 to 
restore its Romanesque style and twin towers, echoing the grandeur of the lost structure. From there, we visit Oura Cathedral. Perched on a hill overlooking Nagasaki 
Harbour, Ōura Cathedral is the oldest standing Christian church in Japan and one of 
the country’s most treasured cultural landmarks. The cathedral was built in 1864 by French 
missionaries, at a time when Japan was just beginning to reopen after more than two centuries 
of isolation under the Tokugawa shogunate. The church was dedicated to the 
Twenty-Six Martyrs of Japan. Designed in the Gothic style by a French priest, the cathedral was constructed by Japanese 
craftsmen using timber and locally made bricks. Its white walls, soaring spire, and pointed arches were unlike anything 
most Japanese had ever seen at that time. Ōura Cathedral became historically significant 
in 1865, when a group of hidden Christians from Urakami village approached the French priest 
Bernard Petitjean and revealed their secret faith. Whispering the words, “Our hearts are 
the same as yours,” they declared their belief in Christ and their 
longing for the Virgin Mary. This moment, known as the “Discovery of 
the Hidden Christians,” is considered one of the most extraordinary events in 
the history of Christianity in Japan. In 1933, it was designated a National Treasure, the first Western-style building 
in Japan to receive this honour. In 2018, together with related 
Christian sites in Nagasaki, it was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, Ōura Cathedral remains an active 
parish church as well as a pilgrimage site. Next, outside the church, on Glover Street 
is St Kolbe’s first house in Nagasaki. After exploring the churches, we 
take a detour to Dejima Wharf. On the edge of Nagasaki’s 
harbour lies Dejima Wharf, a lively waterfront promenade that 
blends history with modern charm. Though today it is lined with cafés, seafood 
restaurants, and shops overlooking the bay, its location carries echoes of Nagasaki’s 
unique role as Japan’s gateway to the world. In the 17th century, Japan closed itself off from nearly all foreign contact under the 
sakoku policy of the Tokugawa shogunate. Yet one small outpost remained open: Dejima, a fan-shaped artificial 
island built in 1636 in Nagasaki Bay. Originally constructed to confine Portuguese 
traders and prevent the spread of Christianity, it became, from 1641 onward, the exclusive 
base of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). For more than two centuries, Dejima 
was Japan’s only window to the West. Behind its guarded gates, Dutch traders 
lived in tightly regulated quarters, their movements controlled, their ships inspected. Yet through this narrow channel 
flowed the latest in Western science, medicine, astronomy, cartography, and technology. This exchange, known as rangaku 
蘭学 or “Dutch Learning,” played a pivotal role in preparing Japan for its 
rapid modernisation in the 19th century. Today, Dejima has been reconstructed, 
with restored warehouses and residences offering a glimpse into the daily 
life of the Dutch residents. Walking through its narrow lanes, 
visitors can imagine the tense yet vital exchanges that connected Japan to the 
wider world during its long era of isolation. In the evening, we unwind with 
shopping at Youme Town and Amu Plaza, two of the city’s largest malls, offering 
a wide range of stores and restaurants. We end the day with a small 
party back at our hotel. The following day, we continue our historical 
journey at the Nagasaki Peace Park, built near the hypocentre of the atomic blast. The Peace Park is a solemn 
space dedicated to remembrance, reflection and the pursuit of global harmony. Established in 1955, ten years after 
the atomic bombing, the park occupies a site near the former Urakami Prison, 
which was at the epicentre of the blast. The centrepiece of the park is the Peace Statue, a ten-metre bronze figure sculpted by the 
famous Japanese sculptor, Seibō Kitamura. Its raised right hand points toward 
the threat of nuclear weapons, while the outstretched left hand 
symbolises the wish for peace. The statue’s closed eyes express 
prayer for the souls of all victims, and its posture, one leg folded 
in meditation, the other extended, represents readiness to 
act in service of humanity. Around the statue are numerous memorials 
donated by countries from around the world, reflecting Nagasaki’s commitment to 
international solidarity and peace. One poignant example is the Monument to 
Commemorate Chinese Victims of the Atomic Bombing, honouring the thousands of Chinese labourers who 
perished under forced conditions during the war. Nagasaki Peace Park is a reminder of the city’s suffering but also a symbol 
of hope, and resilience. Just a short walk from Nagasaki Peace Park 
lies the Hypocenter Park, a sombre site that marks the exact point where the atomic bomb 
detonated over the city on August 9, 1945. A black stone monolith stands at the 
centre, indicating the hypocentre. Hypocenter Park is stark in its 
simplicity, designed to focus attention on the scale of human loss and 
the destructive power of nuclear weapons. In this park, visitors can see the exact 
point where the city was torn apart. There are plaques recording the names and stories of victims. The park serves as both a 
memorial and an educational site, emphasising the urgent need for peace and 
the non-proliferation of nuclear arms. Leaving the Peace Park and Hypocenter Park, with 
heavy hearts, we make our way back to Fukuoka. On the way to Fukuoka, we stop at a local 
whiskey distillery, Umegae Sake Brewery. Umegae Sake Brewery is a historic establishment that has been producing sake since 1787, 
the seventh year of the Tenmei 天明 era. Many of the brewery’s buildings 
date back to the Edo period, and seven of them were designated as tangible 
cultural properties of Japan in 2002. Among these preserved structures 
are the bottling plant, cellar, preparatory warehouse, and a 
storehouse from the Taisho period. Visitors can enjoy guided tours of the 
facilities, usually led by the Toji, or chief brewer, who explains the intricacies of sake 
production and showcase the historic architecture. Here, we savour tastings of Japanese whiskey, which is celebrated for its 
smoothness and refined flavours. It is the perfect opportunity to immerse 
ourselves in Japan’s rich artisanal traditions. Naturally, no visit is complete without 
stocking up on bottles to bring home. After leaving Umegae Sake Brewery, we 
continue our journey toward Fukuoka, enjoying the scenic landscapes that 
mark the end of our Kyushu adventure. As our road trip comes to a close, we 
carry the stories of resilient communities, centuries-old traditions, and landscapes 
that range from serene to awe-inspiring. Kyushu, in all its natural beauty and historical 
depth, has left an indelible mark on our journey. Thank you for joining us on 
this unforgettable adventure. Ok, that’s all folks! Hope you enjoy this video! If you enjoy this video, don’t 
forget to give us a Like, leave a comment for us and 
subscribe to Gibbon Travelogue. And till our next video, we will see you again! Bye! Mata ne!

Hello everybody!
👋 Welcome back to Gibbon Travelogue. I’m Lilian, and I’m Gilbert.

Today, we’re in Nagasaki, a city unlike any other in Japan. 🇯🇵

This is the fifth and final episode of our Kyushu Road Trip series!
After exploring Kumamoto and the mighty Mount Aso, we journey westward into Nagasaki, a place filled with deep history, resilience, and faith.

✨ In this episode, we explore: 00:00
* Seibo-no-Kishi Monastery – founded by St. Maximilian Kolbe, whose story of sacrifice continues to inspire 01:52
* Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum – a sobering reminder of the city’s devastation in 1945 04:27
* Monument & Museum of the 26 Martyrs – honouring the Christians who gave their lives for their faith 07:28
* Museum of the 26 Martyrs 08:43
* St. Philip’s Church 11:02
* Urakami Cathedral – landmarks of Japan’s Christian heritage 11:59
* Ōura Cathedral – Japan’s oldest standing church and UNESCO World Heritage Site 13:41
* Dejima Wharf 16:18
* Dejima Island – once Japan’s only window to the outside world during its era of isolation 17:00
* Nagasaki Peace Park 19:27
* Hypocenter Park – symbols of remembrance and hope for a world without nuclear weapons 21:40
* A stop at Umegae Sake Brewery, where traditions from the Edo period live on through sake and whiskey making 22:35

Along the way, we also enjoy Nagasaki’s modern charm with shopping, local dining, and relaxing at the Hilton Nagasaki.

💡 Nagasaki is more than just a city—it’s a living story of tragedy, faith, resilience, and peace.

🙏 Thank you for joining us on this unforgettable Kyushu road trip adventure. We hope you’ve enjoyed the series as much as we enjoyed making it.

If you liked this video, don’t forget to Like 👍, Comment 💬, and Subscribe 🔔 to Gibbon Travelogue for more journeys around the world.

🌏 Until next time—mata ne, and safe travels!

Love
Gilbert & Lilian
@gibbontravelogue

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