Japan is known for being one of the most mature and fascinating markets for new and vintage watches, home to serious collectors, as well as long-established manufacturers. In recent years, we’ve also seen the rise of a proper independent scene, ranging from accessible to ultra high-end, with Hajime Asaoka being on both ends of the spectrum, including his second brand Kurono Tokyo. Today, we’re here to present a newly created microbrand from Asakusa, Japan, founded by industry veteran Masami Watanabe. With the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches,” the brand debuts with the Kurotsuki And Usuki models, two friendly-priced watches that are packed with classic elegance and refined details.
Kiwame Tokyo’s founder Masami Watanabe
“We pursue honest watchmaking – removing unnecessary layers, hidden costs, and artificial luxury.” This is what new microbrand Kiwame Tokyo stands for, according to its founder. “We embrace modern engineering where it enhances true value, while preserving the spirit of craftsmanship that defines Japan.” The idea is rather simple: elegant watches with a timeless look, a discreet Japanese vibe and a fair price that reflects attention to detail where it matters, and reliable, simple mechanics inside. “We strip away excess, avoid hidden costs, and reject superficial luxury.” That being said, a quick look at the inaugural models of the brand reveals an undeniable sense of style and refinement.
Named Kurotsuki and Usuki, the two debuting watches of Kiwame Tokyo are here to make an impression, but also to please enthusiasts worldwide with a clear 1940s inspiration and an unmistakable Calatrava vibe. These watches are nothing revolutionary, but they have a very pleasant design and a surprising level of detail. The case, which has the oh-so-appealing 3-part construction of mid-century dress watches, is built around a straight middle case topped by a flat, vertically-brushed bezel with a polished bevel. It is fairly compact too, at 38mm in diameter and 9.5mm in thickness, with a decent length of 46mm. The dial is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and, impressive considering the style and proportions, these new watches from Kiwame Tokyo are 100m water-resistant thanks to a solid steel screwed back and a screw-down crown.
The watches, sharing identical cases, come in two styles. The Kurotsuki model, Japanese for “black moon,” opts for a glossy black dial with brushed applied numerals and polished hands. The Usuki version, “light yellow” in Japanese, features an ivory-toned dial with blackened numerals and a blued steel second hand. On both models, classic 1940s inspirations are present with a very discreet but palpable Japanese touch, for instance on the applied, stylised Breguet numerals or the reworked, sharp syringe hands. Luminescent material is found on the hands as well as rectangular plots at each hour, in two different colours (blue or green emitting).
Keeping the price reasonable, the Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki and Usuki are powered by a Japan-made, outsourced Miyota 9039 movement. This automatic calibre is known to be reliable and easy to service, with decent accuracy (here rated at -10/+15 seconds/day). Running at 4Hz and storing about 42h of power reserve, it displays the time without a date and offers hand-wound and stop seconds capabilities.
The final touch is a classic smooth calf leather strap in black – looking at these watches, I’m sure some will find far bolder and nicer options, to suit their style – closed by a steel pin buckle. The overall design, shape and detailing are, in my eyes at least, particularly appealing, and the inaugural watches of Kiwame Tokyo have serious arguments… The classic 1940s Calatrava elements (3-part case with coin-edge chamfered bezel, Breguet numerals, military-ish hands) are nothing new but elegantly interpreted here with a light Japanese touch and a bit of modernity. If the brand calls that “honest watchmaking,” then I’m happy about this and curious for more.
The best of all… These Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki and Usuki are priced at USD 650, quite impressive considering the details of the case and dial. Currently out of stock (the first batch of 99 pieces is now sold out), the brand indicates that a second batch is scheduled for release in early November. Orders will be possible from the brand’s website at kiwametokyo.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/kiwame-tokyo-kurotsuki-and-usuki-models-new-micro-brand-japan-accessible-calatrava-style-automatic-introducing-price/
AloJapan.com