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With rustic ryokan guesthouse comfort at a luxury level, the KAI Nagato dazzles like the river that runs through the heart of its enticingly peaceful spa town

Location

KAI Nagato’s idyllic location overlooking a cherry blossom-lined river is perfect for a zen break in the historical prefecture of Yamaguchi. The hotel has soothing, nature-heavy vistas both inside and out, with its own riverside cafes and terraces. A short drive from the nearest city, Nagato, the property is in the centre of a tiny spa town, Yumoto Onsen, and three hours from the nearest airport, Hiroshima. Guests can walk through the village to visit Buddhist temples, ceramics studios, a craft brewery and a speciality coffee shop.

Read more: Japan is the beach holiday you’ve never thought of – but should have

The vibe

The hotel is near the public hot spring that attracts visitors to the spa town

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The hotel is near the public hot spring that attracts visitors to the spa town (KAI Nagato)

The KAI chain is one string of Hoshino Resorts’ elegant bow, a brand that has mastered high-end hospitality over the decades. This Nagato branch opened in 2020, stretching alongside the babbling waters of the River Fukawa that cuts through the creative spa town Yumoto Onsen. Serenity, relaxation and harmony with nature are key to the design of the public spaces; the huge windows in the lobby area draw you outside to the rows of cherry blossom trees. The property has its own private onsen for guests to use, but also sits just minutes from the onsen hot spring that’s been the heart of this exclusive (once royal) spa town for centuries.

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Service

Being a high-end ryokan means here, service is everything. The fundamentals of ryokan culture: the atmosphere of “wa” (harmony) and the dedicated “omotenashi” (personalised service) alongside the healing hot water means you quite literally float through a stay, where an itinerary of meals, spa visits and wellness activities is agreed upon check-in and seamlessly delivered by the exceptional, multi-lingual staff.

Bed and bath

Tokuji Washi paper decorates the walls in KAI Nagato rooms

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Tokuji Washi paper decorates the walls in KAI Nagato rooms (KAI Nagato)

Earthy tones that mirror the natural surroundings are adopted in quintessentially Japanese rooms, where traditional design like sliding paper blinds and circular secondary windows are transportative to a bygone era. It’s not all pale tones, though; the cloud-like futon-style mattresses are backed by a wall of colourful panels made from Tokuji Washi paper – each vibrant pattern representing a local feature. The rooms are also decorated with elegant pieces of local Hagi ware ceramics, Hagi glass, and ouchi lacquerware. Standard rooms have an en suite shower, while a handful of rooms and suites have outdoor onsen baths.

Read more: Why Hiroshima is suddenly the place to go in Japan – and will change the way you see the world

Food and drink

The Japanese-style breakfast is one of the best in the country, says Lucie Grace

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The Japanese-style breakfast is one of the best in the country, says Lucie Grace (KAI Nagato)

As with the traditional ryokan inns that the property is modelled on, all meals are a big event at KAI hotels, so going for full board is very much worthwhile to get the full experience. Guests have a private booth within the restaurant where intricate plates of fine dining are presented. Yamaguchi, the prefecture KAI Nagato resides in, is a comparatively warm southern region surrounded by the ocean, famous for its seafood produce and citrus fruits, which both appear on the seasonal menu. The Japanese-style breakfast is one of the best in the country and absolutely unmissable.

Facilities

Pick up a pancake on your way along a wellness walk

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Pick up a pancake on your way along a wellness walk (KAI Nagato)

The M.O. here is ensuring relaxation, and with that comes the understanding that guests have different ways to relax. The hotel’s onsen; two pools of 38C water (one indoor and one outdoor) await, with pyjamas and robes for each guest provided. The creative space in the lobby invites you to try calligraphy, using ink ground on an “Akama inkstone,” a traditional craft of Yamaguchi. The library is lined with books (most are in Japanese, but some photo books are in English), and the riverside Akebono Cafe is a great spot to enjoy Dorayaki pancakes after a wellness walk along the river.

Read more: The Palace Hotel, Tokyo review

Disability access

The ground floor rooms have step-free access with slopes between buildings for guests with mobility issues – contact the property in advance to discuss any adaptation requirements.

Pet policy

Pets are allowed but only for bookings made from within Japan, ie, local pets only.

Check in/check out

Check in 3pm, check out 12pm.

Family-friendly

Children are welcome.

At a glance

The Kawadoko Terrace for lounging

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The Kawadoko Terrace for lounging (KAI Nagato)

Best thing: Sheer relaxation – and the onsen.

Perfect for: Japan fans wanting to get off the beaten track.

Not right for: Party animals.

Instagram from: The bridge outside Akebono Cafe.

Address: 2229-1 Fukawayumoto, Nagato, Yamaguchi 759-4103, Japan

Book now

Phone: +81 5031348092

Website: hoshinoresorts.com

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