But every place I visited on the island had a magnetic attraction, to both animals and humans. Tamanouramachi Arakawa, a former whaling town that’s a labyrinth of ramshackle wooden houses and a modern onsen foot bath, was built because of its access to the sperm whale migration routes. Ten minutes’ drive from there is the brick Imochiura Church, built in 1897 under the guidance of French missionary Father Perrieux. During the persecution of Christians across the rest of Japan, the church attracted worshipers who travelled over two hours each way by boat to attend Sunday mass. Its fern- and moss-strewn basalt grotto is a shrine to the Virgin Mary and modelled after a similar grotto in Lourdes, France.
I’m not Christian, but I couldn’t deny the mysterious allure of the shrine. While visiting, I also spotted creamy white and cocoa-coloured chestnut tiger butterflies, which use the Gotō islands as a refuelling stop every autumn while crossing the Sea of Japan from Hong Kong and Taiwan. Spinner dolphins, disc coral, and Genji-botaru fireflies are just a few of the living things drawn to these magnetic islands. This dynamic of living in harmony with nature is not unusual in Japan, but as with many things in Gotō, it feels amplified here. And it’s a humble and poignant reminder that humans and animals alike are drawn to forces we cannot always comprehend.
Where to eatKonne Konne
The food on Gotō is a real highlight, and every meal I ate was extraordinary. Konne Konne, which means “Come, Come!” is a relaxed izakaya opened by Tokyo transplant and former photo editor Yuri Sayama, who moved to Fukue in 2021. It’s here I had one of the best izakaya experiences of my 20+ trips to Japan, listening to gentle jazz, feasting on kibinago and silver-striped herring, in both tempura and sashimi form – but also perfectly pink medallions of oven grilled venison, Gotō pork and yuzukoshu carbonara, local shrimp, and tomato in cold dashi. The hyper-fresh sashimi, Gotō meat and produce, and generous pours of sake and wine in a large dining room with comfortable chairs, gentle lighting, and a chill jazz soundtrack.
“We’re really spoiled with good food here,” Yuri says while she refills my sake. “The islands produce a lot of food for the rest of Japan, but we keep the best for ourselves.” Japanese food lovers who grouse about Japan’s lack of spicy food may also appreciate the fiery notes in Gotō’s cuisine – a byproduct of Kyushu cuisine marked by sweeter soy and spicier notes. Think sashimi topped with rings of green chile, in addition to condiments like wasabi and yuzu kosho served alongside many dishes.
Onidake Four Season Village
At the Onidake Observatory, Google Maps calls Onidake Four Season Village a gift shop – but head into the secret cafe in the back, overlooking a forest, which serves up fortifying set meals of silky noodles with yuzu koshu.
What to do on Fukue and the Goto IslandsAbunza Lava Coast
A four-mile-long trail runs along the blackened basalt cliff teeming with palms, knobby candlenut trees, and ferns, and is the warmest place on the island thanks to the offshore Tsushima current. It offers a visitors centre with a nature exhibit on the region’s biodiversity and migratory fauna, and views of perfectly symmetrical Mt. Onidake, one of eleven monogenetic basalt volcanoes which last erupted 18,000 years ago.
Takasaki
This tranquil fishing village of Takasaki on Fukue’s north coast is home to grassy windswept trails that stretch along coastal cliffs, and good places to see crested honey buzzards, bright wildflowers, and views of other Gotō islands like Himeshima and Hisakajima sparkling on the horizon.
Tamanouramachi Arakawa
The former whaling town is a labyrinth of ramshackle wooden houses and home to a modern onsen footbath, and the nearby brick Imochiura Church, built in a fern and moss-strewn basalt grotto that’s a shrine to the Virgin Mary.
Where to stayGotō Tsubaki Hotel
Located across from the ferry terminal, this 81-room, seven-story property named after Gotō’s beloved camellia flower offers views of the harbour and is ideal for shorter visits exploring the main town of Gotō.
Takasaki Stay
Located in the sleepy port town of Takasaki, this single-dwelling property opened in 2024 has cloud and wave themed washi shoji screens, modernist wicker furniture plus a laundry machine, a deep soaking tub, and an excellently stocked kitchen that can be used for self-catering, though the owners can hire a local chef, too.
Colorit Gotō Islands
Steps from the golden sands of Hanamachi Beach is this tranquil 47-room oceanfront property that opened in 2022 is popular with hikers, snorkelers, and canoers. Don’t miss its sauna and sprawling onsen with ocean and beach views.
AloJapan.com