It often seems as though the redevelopment of Tokyo can come only at the expense of what once was. Old buildings oozing with charm are routinely demolished to make way for new — and often lifeless — shopping and living complexes. Green spaces vanish, lost in favor of concrete, robbing pedestrians of the chance to connect to the environment itself.
Daikanyama is an area that manages to fuse past and present, perhaps not seamlessly, but in a way that feels organic and lends itself to pleasant surprises as you make your way around. Parts of it are ultra-modern and super sleek — fitting with its reputation as one of Tokyo’s most stylish neighborhoods — but if you look closely, glimpses of what came before the brunch spots and high-end boutiques still remain, carefully preserved.
With nature bursting from almost every available corner and historical landmarks standing in contrast with the neighborhood’s present-day persona, it’s an area well worth wandering, even if you’re not entirely sure where you’re headed.
Bookstores and Cafes at Daikanyama T-Site
When arriving in Daikanyama, particularly in the warmer months, it’s hard not to notice the amount of greenery tucked in and around the offices, cafes and coworking spaces that make up most of the area. It’s a neighborhood that feels warm and inviting, regardless of why you’ve decided to visit.
One of the neighborhood’s best-known spots is Daikanyama T-Site — a multipurpose park of sorts, housing a number of restaurants, cafes and shops. T-Site is also where you’ll find one of Tokyo’s more aesthetically pleasing bookstores: Daikanyama Tsutaya Books, described as a “library in the woods.”
Its main building (the facade of which is cleverly made of interwoven T’s) is divided into three interconnected wings, housing a wide variety of Japanese and English books and magazines, stationery and accessories, a coworking space and, of course, a Starbucks. With plenty of places to sit and relax with a book in air-conditioned comfort, the library makes for a great escape from the elements, regardless of the season.
Parks and Historic Sites in Daikanyama
Further maintaining the area’s ties to its culture is the Kyu Asakura House, a beautifully preserved traditional wooden home that has stood for over a century. It was once the grand residence of Torajiro Asakura, former councilor of the Tokyo Prefectural Assembly; today it stands as a pristine example of Taisho-era architecture and the gardens of the period’s elite. The house is open to the public from 10 a.m. every day, excluding Mondays, with general admission available for ¥500. Do note that photography is not allowed.
Standing in contrast to the manicured greenery of spots like Daikanyama T-Site is Saigoyama Park. Located just a 10-minute walk from Daikanyama Station, the park has lush lawns in the summer and cherry blossoms in the spring. It’s also situated on a hill, allowing for unobstructed views of the skyline and the sunset in the evenings.
Making use of the steep topography are a number of short walking paths leading up and down the far side of the park. A tiny hidden waterfall is nestled in the middle — find it by listening for the sound of rushing water. When the weather is clear, you might be lucky enough to see Mount Fuji from the top of the park, too.
Where To Eat and Drink in Daikanyama
In Daikanyama, you’re never more than a few minutes’ walk from something great to eat or drink. Right outside Daikanyama Station is Miffy Cafe Tokyo, complete with a colorful, life-size statue of Miffy the rabbit outside. In addition to this lovely photo op, it offers a modest menu of sandwiches and hot foods.
The nearby Log Road is another great option. Just a five-minute walk from the station, Log Road is part garden path, part restaurant street, and home to a number of individual cafes and eateries, including Spring Valley Brewery Tokyo — a two-story restaurant known for its selection of craft beers and hearty meals, such as fish and chips.
Similar to its visual charm, though, much of Daikanyama’s food scene is best found through exploring. Eateries and cafes are hidden away between office buildings, boutique fashion outlets and curiosity stores. If you’re looking for a quieter and perhaps more thoughtful coffee, then Pour Over Coffee Stand is the backstreet barista you need. For a unique take on a time-worn classic, Hotsand Cafe Forest Daikanyama has a menu of grilled sandwiches as good as any. Described as a “rich and indulgent hot sandwich for grown-ups,” the cafe’s horseradish mayo with cheese sandwich is a confirmed hit.
A Neighborhood of Your Own
A day out in Daikanyama is what you make it. Unlike the busier neighborhoods that surround it, such as Ebisu and other parts of Shibuya, Daikanyama is the kind of place perfect for a meander on a day where you’ve got no real plans and no desire to make any. Wander the streets and take note of the varying architectural styles with an iced coffee in hand. Kick back with a book in a “library in the forest.” Browse a boutique for things you may or may not need. Appreciate that in a concrete-laden city like Tokyo, places like Daikanyama refuse to fit the mold.
If the weather permits and you feel like taking an extended stroll, you can walk to Daikanyama Station from Shibuya Station in around 20 minutes. If you’d rather take the train, travel just one stop on the Toyoko Line and you’re there.
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