Regent Seven Seas Explorer cruises the Pacific.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises

My elegant after-dinner stroll back to my suite on the Regent Seven Seas Explorer — in dress and heels, no less — quickly devolved into a lurching stumble. I wasn’t tipsy — the ship was. Waves swelled to 30 feet, rocking the entire 746-passenger vessel.

It was a reminder that even on a floating palace, Mother Nature is at the helm. She showed her might that evening, but thankfully, it would be the only rough patch on our 19-day voyage crossing the Pacific — the Earth’s largest and deepest body of water — from Vancouver to Tokyo. Read on to learn more about the epic journey.

Explore Alaska during excursions or from your room deck.

Jennifer Kester
Adventuring in Alaska

The Alaska leg began in Seward, which resembled an autumn postcard with gold-leafed quaking aspen and pine-green Sitka spruces dotting the way to both the snow-dusted Kenai Mountains and the deep-blue waters.

But adventures awaited in Kodiak, where more than two-thirds of the island is a wildlife refuge. It’s best-known for its 3,500 resident Kodiaks — the world’s tallest bears, the males can reach 10 feet on their hind legs, but they are mellow, a guide assured us as we toured the island. While the massive mammals kept their distance that day, we stopped by Mill Bay Beach, where eagles swooped in and perched on spruces, perhaps angling to plunder silver salmon from a couple of fishermen.

The guide also delved into the region’s history, including the Russian Orthodox missionaries who landed here in 1794, leaving an enduring influence on the island. Their legacy lives on with the bright blue onion-domed Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Cathedral.

Another scene from the Last Frontier.

Jennifer Kester

There were more Alaska history lessons at our next port: Unalaska, part of the Aleutian Islands. The Museum of the Aleutians is a small but well-curated place to learn about the lives of the Unangan people, the island’s first inhabitants. The collection includes beautiful, tightly woven baskets and kamleikas, hooded raincoats made from sea mammal intestines, which the Unangan devised to withstand the elements. Other exhibits explored the area’s Russian fur trade rush that started around 1744 and the Japanese bombing of 1942 — it was the only other U.S. site aside from Pearl Harbor to come under attack.

And since the ship was docked in Unalaska’s Dutch Harbor, the busiest fishing port in the U.S., I had to try some seafood. The Norwegian Rat Saloon’s claim to fame, besides its unappetizing name, is it serves as a regular backdrop for the Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch. But it’s worth visiting even if you don’t watch the TV show — you don’t want to miss the wood-filled bar’s plump fried shrimp with a perfectly crispy batter, the friendly service and the jaw-dropping views. Large windows frame the water and Aleutian Range, but step outside after lunch for an even better view as the green peaks appear like watercolors when the sun hits them just right.

As the Explorer began to get underway for Japan, a pod of whales appeared off the side of the ship in front of the balconies, surfacing and diving in a rhythm, as if signaling bon voyage.

Pacific Rim is one of the ship’s culinary highlights.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises
Hitting the High Seas

The six-day Pacific crossing to Japan kept us busy with onboard activities. There were theater productions, musical performances and magic shows. The spa offered treatments like a high-tech Elemis Biotec 2.0 facial and an Around the World massage using Swedish techniques, volcanic rocks, bamboo stalks and coconut poultices.

But the food offerings were what we really looked forward to while onboard. You can request a private wine and cheese tasting — the crew can even organize them for non-drinkers: the Pierre Zero sparkling with notes of lychee, apple and pineapple was a winner. The ship also staged special culinary events, including an elegant Viennese afternoon tea with rolled tableside carts and an elaborate Sunday gala brunch.

Even regular meals were enjoyable — there’s no limit or extra fees for the specialty restaurants. Our favorite was Pacific Rim, a pan-Asian spot with standout dishes like beef tataki rolls with fresh herbs, chili and garlic chips; Peking duck and watermelon salad with sweet fish sauce; and gigantic fried pink tiger prawns with kaffir lime butter.

Then at night, we retired to the all-suite ship’s sophisticated dark wood, navy and white cabins. The headboard climbed to the ceiling, the plush beds guaranteed solid sleep, the walk-in closets were spacious and each suite had a balcony. Thoughtful touches give the suite a homey feel: the complimentary minibar was customized and the valet laundry service returned clothes cleaned, pressed and folded in a reusable box like a gift (which it is on such a long journey).

What sets Regent apart is how thoroughly all-inclusive it is. Like the laundry service, drinks (such as soda, coffee, wine and cocktails), Wi-Fi, gratuities and even many shore excursions are included.

Seibien is a special place of scenic beauty.

Jennifer Kester
Journeying through Japan

We made landfall in Aomori, the northernmost tip of Japan’s main island, Honshu. While Aomori remains largely unexplored by international travelers, the Japanese know it for its summertime Nebuta Festival with colorful lantern-like floats, springtime cherry blossoms at Hirosaki Castle and fall apple harvest — the orchard-filled prefecture produces about 60% of the country’s crop.

Another tour brought us to Seibien, a government-designated “Special Place of Scenic Beauty” for its three-acre, Japanese garden. Dating to 1902, the carefully manicured, tree-filled landscape features a tranquil pond and a yew tree representing the gods. The property also has a building that blends Japanese and Western architecture and Gohoden, a “treasure hall” with stunning lacquer work by Koumo Tosan and gold-leaf-covered tatami mat flooring. Tip: Stop by the shop to pick up a softball-sized juicy apple.

Afterward, we explored Nakamachi, an arcaded street with traditional buildings from the Edo period that house shops and sake breweries. When sudden rain sent us scurrying for shelter, I found myself in one of the few open restaurants, Miyuki, gratefully warming up over a steaming bowl of ramen.

The nearby Terayama Mochi Shop, a family-run operation that began as a rice store in the Edo period, caught my eye, so I popped in for dessert. The shopkeeper didn’t know English and my Japanese is limited to several polite phrases, so he kindly pointed me to what I thought was traditional mochi. My first bite revealed a surprise: it was daifuku,a creamy cheese stuffed into matcha- and apple-flavored mochi. Sometimes miscommunication produces its own moments of joy.

The next stop in Japan was Hakodate, on Hokkaido’s southern coast. When a passing storm forced the cancellation of our cable car tour to Mount Hakodate’s summit, I ventured out solo. After it started pouring, I ducked into Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse, a shopping complex built in 1909 as a commercial warehouse. Today it hosts shops like the Hakodate Brick Factory, where you can buy everything from mugs to jewelry; Hakodate Pastry Snaffle’s for light and luscious cheesecakes; and Hakodate Wine with local vintages in stock.

The historic Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens.

Jennifer Kester

The Sendai excursion began at Zuiganji, an early 9th-century Zen Buddhist temple that’s considered a natural treasure. It faces Matsushima Bay, our next destination. There, I climbed on a boat to see the bay’s 260 pine-covered limestone islands, which look like pieces of art with jagged edges, dramatic formations and natural arches. Watch for the nearly 830-foot cherry-red Fukuurabashi — locals call it the Bridge of Encounters because legend says you might meet someone special while crossing.

The final stop was Tokyo, where we experienced the striking contrasts of a capital that’s both modern (the steel 1,093-foot Tokyo Tower, a popular observatory) and historic (the Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens from 1629). Named a “Special Historic Site” and a “Special Place of Scenic Beauty,” the peaceful gardens serve as a haven in the buzzing city. Ponds, waterfalls, a plum blossom grove and the Full Moon Bridge (a curved stone arch that forms a perfect circle with its reflection) create a meditative 18-acre landscape. In the fall, Japanese silver leaves, Japanese wax trees and red maples set the grounds ablaze with color.

The 19-day voyage brought us to unforgettable destinations, from Alaska’s untamed wild to Sendai’s pine-covered isles. But the serendipitous moments — escaping the rain at a local eatery and having a delightful conversation with fellow cruisers over bowls of ramen, or fumbling and laughing over mistranslations at a mochi storefront — also left lasting impressions.

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