I still can’t quite believe it happened. I not only met a Geisha, a woman who trained for more than ten years, but I also spent an evening being entertained by her and an apprentice Geisha known as a Maiko.
They danced, sang, answered our questions, and even coaxed me into playing a traditional drinking game. The whole night felt surreal, like stepping into another time.
A Geisha in Kyoto.
What Is a Geisha
I have been fascinated by Geisha ever since I was a little girl. It all started with a porcelain Geisha doll my grandma had in a glass case. I used to stare at it in awe every time I spent the night at my grandparents’ house. I wanted to know more about the lady this doll was inspired by and the culture surrounding her. And ever since, I’ve been reading as much as I can about Geisha. My favorite book is Geisha: A Life by Mineko Iwasaki. (This is a list of all my current favorite books.)
I now like to think I have a pretty good grasp of what being a Geisha means and how a young girl becomes one…
A Geisha, called Geiko in Kyoto, is a female entertainer highly trained in traditional arts such as dance, song, tea ceremony, calligraphy, and poetry. Training usually begins around age fifteen and lasts for several years. Once a Maiko completes her training, she becomes a Geiko, and many continue in the profession for life.
There are still many misconceptions about Geisha, especially the idea that they are involved in prostitution. This is not the case. In Japan, they are respected cultural figures and often compared to celebrities in the United States. Today, it is estimated that fewer than a hundred Geiko remain in Kyoto.
Traditional Performances
During dinner, the Maiko who entertained us, named Koyoshi, performed graceful dances set to shamisen music. These dances are slower and more deliberate than Western styles, with each step carefully placed to tell a story. Watching her made it easy to understand why this art form has endured for centuries. (You can see one of her dances in the video below.)
The Beauty of the Kimono
The clothing is a huge part of the experience. A Geisha’s kimono takes hours to put on, with hair, makeup, and seasonal accessories completing the look. Even a single obi sash can cost thousands of dollars. Unlike a regular kimono, the neckline is cut lower, since the nape of the neck is considered one of the most sensual features in Japan. (I also had the chance to wear a kimono while in Kyoto, if you would like to learn more about that experience!)
How to Book an Evening With a Geisha
Traditionally, meeting a Geisha required a personal introduction, which was impossible for most visitors. Today, experiences can be reserved through places like the ryokan Gion Hatanaka in Kyoto. I booked mine on Viator, though GetYourGuide offers similar packages.
The price is high, but it is far less than the cost of a private engagement. Reservations are necessary, and each event only takes place if at least ten people book. The maximum group size is fifteen.
Playing Games With a Geisha
After dinner, we joined in traditional games. One was Tora Tora Tora, a lively version of rock-paper-scissors where players act out a samurai, tiger, or old woman. Another was Konpira Fune Fune, a drinking game involving a bowl and quick reflexes. I lost that one, which meant I had to drink, while my husband won Tora Tora Tora and came away with painted coasters as a prize. (You can see me playing Konpira Fune Fune in the video above!)
The Food
The dinner itself was not the highlight. The Kaiseki meal was pretty, but not the most memorable I have had in Japan. If you are not a fan of fish, there are no substitutions available. Luckily, the open bar helped. This experience is about the performances and the atmosphere more than the food.
Final Thoughts
Meeting a Geisha in Kyoto was a dream I never thought I would be able to check off my list. Between the performances, the conversations, and the games, it felt like stepping into another world.
If the cost or reservations are difficult, you can still catch Maiko performances at Gion Corner, a theater that offers nightly shows to the public. And if you want to dive deeper into this world, Mineko Iwasaki’s memoir Geisha: A Life is a fascinating read.
For more on Japanese culture, you might enjoy my post on what it’s like wearing a kimono in Japan for a traditional tea ceremony or my reflections on 22 things that surprised me about Japan as an American.
This night is one I will never forget, and I would encourage anyone visiting Kyoto with an interest in Japanese culture to experience it for themselves.
AloJapan.com