(Photo by Marcos Azuna/Stripes Japan)
When a coworker who had traveled to Taipei for work remarked that the Taiwanese were even more welcoming than the Okinawans, I was in disbelief. I thought, “Who can be more welcoming and family oriented than the Ryukyu people of Okinawa?”
That year was 2022, when our family of six had lived in Okinawa for less than a year and we had a newfound fondness for our home away from home in Japan. Three years later, in April 2025, we witnessed Taiwan culture firsthand on our first international trip since arriving to our duty station. The experience was nothing less than spectacular for its rich culture, amazing cuisine and hospitality. Look no further for your destination paradise and read about our adventures and new discoveries on our family getaway!
Why Taipei?
Inspired by another Destination Paradise article, Taipei had been on my radar for some time. Among many historically significant events in Taiwan’s history, Japan colonized Formosa and occupied the island for 50 years, from 1895 to 1945, leaving signs and artifacts that can be seen today. Practically speaking, there isn’t an international destination closer in proximity to Okinawa than Taiwan, as it is only an hour and a half from Okinawa by plane.
What’s more, an affordable Taipei tour package through an on-base travel agency during spring break made this an attractive offer. Taipei is just as humid and typhoon prone as Okinawa, so the time of year in early April could not have been better for us to travel. The cool nights and mild days simplified the packing compared to destinations having different climates. The rain is just as prevalent as Okinawa, if not more so.
Neighborhoods and night markets
Based outside of The Riviera Hotel on the north end of central Taipei, Shilin was a natural choice for our first stop. We rode two stops on the MRT rail to the The Shilin Official Residence for a walk on some of the most beautiful gardens in all of Taipei. Aside from the main building of Chiang Kai-Shek that charges a small fee for entry, touring the gardens is free and your time can be scaled from an hour to half a day or more for those who enjoy the floral diversity that Taiwan offers.
While strolling through these magnificent gardens, I imagined being one of Chiang Kai-Shek’s special visitors (Richard M. Nixon and Dwight D. Eisenhower are said to have visited) attending a service at Victory Chapel and marveling at the rich and complex Eastern culture. There are ample fishponds, statues and other garden fixtures to entertain children young and older. After working up an appetite, I was proud that our proper planning had put us near our next stop, the Shilin Night Market.
If you only spend one night in Taipei and want to explore new foods, Taiwanese culture and bargain shop, a visit to one of the many night markets scattered throughout the city is a must. The Shilin Night Market ranks among the top amongst international visitors judging by the number of online reviews. We arrived around 5 p.m. on a Wednesday to avoid the heavier crowd, which paid off initially. The scene can be chaotic with tourists meandering through stalls upon stalls of food vendors among a sea of pedestrians and mopeds.
However, the new and interesting culinary delicacies that await are your reward, with each encounter leaving you intrigued for more. My favorites were a plate of slow roasted King Oyster mushrooms with your choice of seasonings and a strawberry shake from a busy intersection. Many of the vendors give out samples, providing even more opportunities to sample delicious foods.
Beyond Shilin, the historic Dadaocheng neighborhood provided a good contrast to the much more liberal Xaimen neighborhood. Both are on the west side of the city and accustomed to seeing many visitors.
By coincidence we walked into a red brick building near the Xaimen MRT station, only to learn about this well-preserved public market and relic of the Japanese occupation: The Red House. In addition to being a “creative boutique” selling all kinds of products from small businesses, The Red House is a remarkable example of cultural preservation offering creative seminars, guided tours, craft workshops, as well as theatrical performances.
A brief tour of the building was a much welcome reprieve from the international department stores that can be found in Xaimen.
Our hotel (The Riviera Hotel) was just south of the Keelung River, and within walking distance from the Shuangcheng Street Night Market that supplied our tea concoctions, Taiwanese doughnuts and city park for rambunctious kiddos. The Yuanshan MRT station was also 15 minutes from our hotel, giving us the added benefit of discovering unplanned venues and shops. One such venue was the Taipei Expo Farmer’s Market, held at the EXPO Dome, where we browsed dozens of various goods suitable for every member of our family.
City tour
National Palace Museum is on par with the Louvre in Paris or the Smithsonian Institution in the U.S. Known as one of the biggest collections of art, including the famed Jadeite Cabbage, which is a beautifully sculpted head of cabbage crafted from jade stone. The one and a half hours allocated for this national treasure is woefully inadequate but provided a good taste for what to expect in the event we return or can make it to the southern branch location in Taibao City.
Limit your visit to a select number of exhibits, or focus on a period that interests you, but make sure to allow time for the impressive gift shop.
The Chaing Kai-Sheck Memorial grounds are beautiful and worth a tour, especially to see the changing of the guard that happens daily. We made a brief but insightful visit to Banka Lungshan Temple before touring Taipei 101.
Spring flowers in Taipei’s central park
A packed city tour fueled my desire for a more relaxed agenda on our free day. A visit to Daan Park in the heart of the city had all the remedies for our travel-weary family on the last full day of the trip. The natural space (and fresh coffee aroma from the café) hits you before you can even step foot outside of the MRT station at this iconic park.
Our first encounter at the park was with a small group that offered us in-line skating lessons at the outdoor skate rink before we could even reach the playground. Despite a light drizzle, the kids got their playground fix while my wife previewed the hydrangeas display in this arboretum that awaited us. Had I not seen various advertisements for the city’s Flower Festival that was in full swing, I might have been completely surprised by the scale and detail that went into the flower displays showcased at Daan Park.
(Photo by Marcos Azuna/Stripes Japan)
(Photo by Marcos Azuna/Stripes Japan)
(Photo by Marcos Azuna/Stripes Japan)
Large sculptures, permanent and temporary fixtures of characters (e.g. Taipei’s iconic bear) and the like, graced thousands of colorful hydrangeas in this floral exposition that attracted visitors of all ages. Between the fishponds, flocks of herons, turtles, gigantic leaves, musicians, sculptures and squirrels (Okinawa only has mongoose and they’re rarely seen), Daan Park provided more than enough to keep the family entertained.
Maybe the best part about this park is its proximity to a Din Tai Fung restaurant, only a short walk from the MRT station and park!
Amazing dumplings
It was our third attempt by the time we ate at a Din Tai Fung, the only restaurant on my agenda for this trip. The Taipei 101 Din Tai Fung had stopped taking new reservations by the time we arrived and the other location only served takeout customers. Regardless of the location, any Din Tai Fung is bound to have a wait time before you can be seated. After our hour wait, where our kids made friends with a South Korean couple, we finally got to indulge in dumpling delicacies to our hearts’ (and stomachs) content.
Unlike the food stalls or local restaurant where one must be familiar enough with the dish to know how to consume it and what toppings to apply, each Din Tai Fung is equipped with signage and knowledgeable staff to guide the uninitiated when it comes to this staple of eastern cuisine. We ordered a nice variety of buns, dumplings and Xiao Long Bao types, including a signature Truffle & Kurobuta Pork favorite, served with tasty sides. The complimentary hot tea, the way the staff prepared the condiments and the delivery of children’s bowls and utensils without me having to ask, all contributed to a most delightful culinary experience that is unmatched by other restaurant chains. Even if you don’t make it to Taiwan, you can find a Din Tai Fung near you as they are an international chain!
Other foods to explore, or that Taiwan is known for: Stinky Tofu, you either love it or hate it. I don’t see how anyone can like the smell, though I finished a whole serving and liked it. Soybean milk and the wide variety of food that accompany the shops where it’s sold; the soy milk comes in salty or sweet varieties. The tea culture is just as big as anywhere else in Asia. As the birthplace of boba tea, you can pick from a multitude of concoctions made by hundreds of vendors in this thriving industry. I prefer the traditional Teiguanyin and Wenshan Baozhong teas that are famous in Taipei. Taipei uses the Michelin star rating system for its restaurants, also known by the moniker: Bib Gourmand. Use these terms when searching for good food, but know that the best sign for quality food is a long queue.
Excursion outside the city
Our tour package included a full-day excursion to a mining town turned sky lantern haven in Pingxi Old Street, then to a fishing village turned into Yehliu Geopark. Between these two main stops, we toured Old Street in Jiufen, a pedestrian packed shopping corridor at several hundred feet elevation with plenty of vistas. The location was the inspiration for the movie “Spirited Away.”
This packed agenda made for a long day, but I must go with the fun and fabulous views at Yehliu Geopark as our top destination on the excursion from Taipei. Trying our hand at calligraphy on paper lanterns before releasing them into the air from an old railroad was a close second.
The value of having a tour guide was made evident among the multitude of tourists’ shops. The cultural insights freely offered by our local guide made the trip more enjoyable for a guy like me who’s interested in history.
Return to Taiwan?
Trips to the Taipei Zoo, an art community in Treasure Hill and a gorge on the east coast of Taipei named Taroko (to name a few), unfortunately did not materialize on this trip. It’s funny how everywhere I travel, there is more that I want to return to see. I feel like this is especially true at a place where there are good vibes felt between me or my family and the locals.
During our brief stay in Taipei, I found that Taiwanese are often more than willing to share an aspect of their culture or offer to help willingly and cheerfully. Such was the case when I was browsing through the language learning section of an Eslite Bookstore and a schoolteacher offered an online resource for learning Mandarin as an alternative to the pricier (and more confusing) bookstore options.
Feeling welcomed and appreciated as a guest is typically a good sign that the host would like to see you return. After visiting Taipei, I feel like we were treated as welcomed guests as opposed to just mere visitors. For those looking for more reasons to visit Taiwan, be sure to allow time for exploring one of the waiting lounges at Taoyuan International Airport featuring Taiwanese culture or industry. The Hello Kitty, MIT Bike and “The Glory of High-tech” waiting rooms, to name a few, are mentioned to spark your interest.
Don’t delay, there are good vibes to be felt, great food and a wonderful culture to explore in Taipei. Could you ask for more in an international destination so close to home?
(Photo by Marcos Azuna/Stripes Japan)
Editor’s Note:
Marcos and his family will complete their final tour of active duty with the Marines this fall and plan to separate in Japan upon his retirement. They wish “to continue serving as part of the military community on Okinawa and hold on to this lifestyle for just a little while longer.”
AloJapan.com