Skiing in HOKKAIDO’S Most Unusual City – HAKODATE

Skiing in HOKKAIDO’S Most Unusual City – HAKODATE

This time we’re heading to the southern tip of Hokkaido to explore Hakodate, a city that at first glance barely feels Japanese at all. European churches, brick warehouses and a ropeway in the middle of town. But the real questions are, is there good beer, how is the skiing and can I convince two local telemarkers to reveal their secret powder stash or will I just end up lost in a bamboo forest instead? Let’s find out. Before we can explore the south of Hokkaido, we first have to leave behind Honshu’s northern city of Aomori by crossing the Tsugaru Strait, a narrow stretch of sea that separates Japan’s two largest islands. While most people take the bullet train, that tunnels beneath the ocean, I’ve opted for the scenic route instead. A four-hour ferry ride across open water with plenty of time to enjoy the cold ocean breeze and watch Honshu slowly fade into the distance. Goodbye Honshu, it’s been a fun month. Now it’s time to explore Hokkaido some more. First time to Hakudate actually. Yuki, where are we staying tonight? That sounds kind of expensive, must be really nice then. So what’s the catch? Is it like in a bad location? Nice, well done Yuki, well done. Hakodate began as a small fishing village but quickly became a major crossroads of east and west when Japan opened its port to foreign trade in the 1850s. Though not as prominent today, the city has held on to its unique character shaped by decades of foreign influence. After checking into my hotel, I follow Yuki’s advice and head to the nearby brewery which welcomes me with some familiar food from home. Yeah, it’s a cool little brewery. I was gonna show you town but then it started raining so I drank beer instead which is actually not too bad. So Yuki, are we going skiing tomorrow? That’s unfortunate. So yeah, let’s go check out that little resort tomorrow and then after I’ll show you around town because it’s supposed to be sunny after we might even get some snow tonight. Who knows? Drink it blue. We made it to Nanae Snow Park. Took a little bit to get here because first it’s a half-hour train ride and then 20-25 minutes on like the tiniest ski bus ever but we’re here now. Looks like there’s some fresh but down here already looks very heavy. Well, let’s see how it goes. With just one gondola and two chairlifts, the layout of Nanae Snow Park is pretty straightforward. But unlocking the good slack country, maybe I need to infiltrate a group of local telemarkers to find out. Konnichiwa! Met some new telemarkers in the gondola. Some locals. They’re gonna show me all the secret spots here. Oh, actually fun little area. Snow is a little bit crusty underneath now but… Now it’s a long flat track out and I have no idea where we are so if those two guys had shown me I would have never gone here And now some uphill I have no idea where we are This is definitely the strangest ski run I’ve done on my trip so far. To cool down from our slackcountry adventure it’s time to try some local refreshment from the vending machine. With some kola only available in Hokkaido. So yeah, turns out some Japanese people have big trucks as well. After my new friends even gave me a ride back to town I unwind in the hotel Onsen with amazing views over the city. Even today Onsen remain an essential part of daily life in Japan. Not just for relaxing but often is the main place to wash up, shave and take a quiet moment whether it’s early in the morning or late at night. As I take an evening stroll through Hakodate’s old town I keep finding myself virtually transported all over the globe which is not surprising given that over the past two centuries this place has absorbed influences from the US, Britain, France and Russia, still preserved in the town’s architecture. I mean just look at that church back there. You usually don’t see that in Japan. What’s that going up there by the way Yuki? Can we still go up it? Nice let’s do it! Going up the Mount Hakodate Roadway, it’s amazing to remember that this mountain was once an island, a volcanic peak erupting from the sea millions of years ago. Around 3000 years ago ocean currents built a sandy connection to the mainland giving Hakodate its iconic hourglass shape. The next morning I walked by the Hakodate Market packed with fresh seafood that would under normal circumstances be absolutely irresistible to me. However after my recent Aomori tuna binge my stomach refuses. I guess I’ll just have to come back another day. Well that’s a wrap from Hakodate. I know I didn’t pick the nicest background but I actually have to rush to get my train. But yeah this city is really cool I wish I had another night here or two or three. So much more to explore I want to try all the food And yeah, if the skiing here were a little bit better it would basically be the Vancouver of Japan because you know we got the ocean and we got mountains nearby we just miss some better resorts. I mean Niseko is still a three-hour drive away. Nonetheless it’s been really fun the people here were really nice. Yeah we’ll definitely be back. Thanks for watching until next time. Peace.

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⏱ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:42 Ferry from Aomori
02:32 Hakodate Brewery
03:28 Nanae Snow Park
06:25 Onsen
07:00 Hakodate Ropeway
08:20 Morning Market