Road Trip in Kyushu; Exploring Kumamoto, Volcanoes, Mount Aso, Kumamoto Castle and Takachiho Gorge

Road Trip in Kyushu; Exploring Kumamoto, Volcanoes, Mount Aso, Kumamoto Castle and Takachiho Gorge

Welcome to another Exciting 
episode of Gibbon Travelogue. I am Lilian. And I am Gilbert. And we are at… Kumamoto. Can you see the bear here? Kumamoto is one of the cities in Kyushu, 
Kyushu Island, and is famous for two things; the Takachiho Gorge as well as Kumamoto Castle. Shall we explore this place, Lilian? Yep. Ok, let’s go! In our last couple of episodes, we 
started our Road Trip from Fukuoka, visited the onsen town of Beppu, and 
also explored the charming Yufuin. In this episode, we journey into the 
land of fire and samurai, Kumamoto. This region is home to Japan’s largest 
active volcano, sweeping grasslands, and one of the country’s most iconic castles. We leave Yufuin behind and head towards Mount Aso. The drive takes us through winding mountain roads 
and forests, before opening up to a lookout point with a panoramic view of Aso City resting 
quietly inside the world’s largest caldera. After less than two hours, we arrive 
at Aso-Kuju National Park, a landscape shaped by millennia of volcanic eruptions, 
covering the central highlands of Kyushu. At its heart, lies the Aso Caldera, one of 
the largest volcanic calderas in the world, stretching about 25 kilometres across. Inside this massive basin, entire towns, villages, and farmland thrive, surrounded by 
towering peaks and lush grasslands. The park is most famous for Mount Aso, an active volcanic group made up of five main 
peaks: Neko, Taka, Naka, Eboshi, and Kishima. Among them, Mt. Nakadake remains one of the 
few volcanoes in the world, when activity levels are low, visitors can walk right up 
to the edge and look down into the crater. Unfortunately, path to the crater closes at 5pm and we arrive a little too late. So we 
can only admire the crater from afar. Behind Nakadake, stands Mount Takadake, the 
tallest peak in the region at 1,592 metres. Its height carries symbolic meaning for 
locals: “1592” can be read as Higo Kuni, the old name for Kumamoto, tying the 
mountain to the very identity of the region. Another highlight is Kusasenri, 
the “Grassland of a Thousand Ri.” This wide-open plain was once 
the floor of an ancient crater, now transformed into a peaceful meadow 
where cattle and horses graze freely. This landscape has long been 
celebrated in poetry and painting, and today remains one of the 
most photographed spots in Aso. The park is also home to Mount Kishimadake, a relatively young volcano formed 
only about four thousand years ago. Trails lead to its summit, rewarding hikers with sweeping views of the caldera 
and the Kuju Mountains beyond. After a full day outdoors, we head 
back to Kumamoto City for dinner. We come across a restaurant, West Yakiniku which offers a wagyu beef 
buffet, for just 2,990 yen per person. This gives all of us the opportunity to savour 
the region’s famous melt-in-your-mouth flavour. We stay the night at the Nikko Hotel 
Kumamoto, right in the city centre. The next morning, we visit Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s three great castles, 
alongside Himeji and Matsumoto. It is a fortress of history, legends, and resilience, shaped by centuries 
of warlords, rebellions, and rebirth. The castle was built in the 
early 1600s by Kato Kiyomasa, famed for his genius in castle construction. His design combined elegance with practicality. The steep mushagaeshi walls made scaling 
nearly impossible, and the vast castle grounds contained more than 100 wells and hidden 
storerooms, ensuring survival during siege. Kiyomasa even ordered ginkgo trees 
to be planted inside the grounds, both as a food source and as symbols of endurance. One of these trees, now over 400 years 
old, is called the Great Ginkgo Tree. It stands tall beside the main keep, a 
living witness to all that has unfolded here. After the fall of the Kato clan, the castle 
came under the control of the Hosokawa family, who ruled Kumamoto for over two 
centuries during the Edo period. The Hosokawa lords maintained the castle 
as a political and cultural centre. Under their governance, Kumamoto flourished not 
only militarily but also in arts and learning. Samurai culture thrived here, blending 
martial tradition with scholarship, poetry, and Confucian ideals. The Hosokawa also expanded the castle’s defenses, maintaining its reputation as one of 
the most formidable fortresses in Japan. Even in times of peace, Kumamoto Castle stood as a reminder of the samurai 
spirit that defined the domain. The castle’s greatest trial came 
during the Satsuma Rebellion of 1877, when Saigō Takamori and his samurai forces 
rose against the new Meiji government. Fascinating accounts tell of 
the desperate days inside. Soldiers rationed food and water, relying on 
the ginkgo trees and hidden stores of grain. They endured constant bombardment, 
but the walls and keeps held strong. The rebellion left a lasting 
mark on the region’s memory, showing the deep tensions between old 
samurai ideals and Japan’s new future. Even in modern times, the castle has suffered, 
most notably during the 2016 Kumamoto earthquake, when walls collapsed, tiles 
fell, and towers cracked. Yet restoration continues, and the castle 
once again rises from the scars of history. At the foot of Kumamoto Castle, just outside its 
mighty stone walls, lies Sakura-no-Baba Josaien, a lively cultural village that brings the 
castle town of the samurai era back to life. The name itself tells a story. Sakura refers to cherry blossoms, no 
Baba to the riding grounds once used by samurai for martial training, and 
Josaien means “castle town garden.” Together, they evoke both history and celebration. Josaien was built as a gateway to the castle, recreating the atmosphere of 
an Edo-period castle town. This is the perfect place 
to try Kumamoto specialties. We have a nice lunch here. Beyond food, Josaien is home to cultural spaces 
such as the Kumamoto Castle Museum Wakuwakuza, where interactive exhibits bring the 
history of the castle and the city to life. Here, visitors can learn about Kato 
Kiyomasa, the genius behind Kumamoto Castle, experience samurai armor displays, and 
explore multimedia shows that explain the castle’s construction, the Satsuma 
Rebellion, and the 2016 earthquake. From the castle, we drive about one hour 
and forty-five minutes to Takachiho Gorge, one of Kyushu’s most breathtaking natural wonders. Carved by the Gokase River 
over thousands of years, the gorge is a dramatic landscape of sheer 
basalt cliffs and emerald-green waters. The walls of the gorge rise up to 100 metres, their vertical columns formed from 
ancient lava flows of Mount Aso. As the lava cooled, it cracked into long, hexagonal patterns, nature’s 
artistry frozen in stone. At the heart of the gorge is Manai Falls, a slender, 17-metre-high waterfall that 
cascades elegantly into the river below. The view of the falls framed by basalt walls 
has become an iconic image of Takachiho, often appearing in travel posters and guidebooks. Visitors can enjoy the gorge in two ways. From above, walking paths trace the cliff edge, offering panoramic views of 
the river winding far below. From below, rental boats allow you 
to paddle directly into the gorge, right beneath the spray of Manai Falls. But Takachiho Gorge is more than a natural wonder, 
it is also a sacred place in Japanese mythology. According to legend, it was here 
in Takachiho that the sun goddess Amaterasu 天照 hid herself in a cave, 
plunging the world into darkness. The other gods gathered to coax her out, and 
when she emerged, light returned to the world. This myth links Takachiho to 
the very origins of Japan. Another legend is tied to 
the Kihachino Chikaraishi, a massive boulder weighing nearly 
200 tons found near the gorge. The story tells of a giant named Kihachi, 
who hurled the stone in a show of strength, only to be defeated by the god Mikenunomikoto. The boulder remains a silent reminder of the 
ancient struggles between gods and mortals. Because of these myths, the entire Takachiho 
area is considered a sacred land of the gods. After a full day of sightseeing, we return to Kumamoto City for a 
visit to Nishiginza Street 西銀座通り. Nishiginza is a warren of narrow alleyways, filled 
with izakaya pubs, yakitori stands and tiny bars. The atmosphere is cosy, welcoming, and full 
of Showa-era charm, more local than touristy. We have our dinner at a Izakaya 
called Daisho Suishan 大庄水産 After dinner, we have a quiet 
evening back at our hotel. On our final morning, we set 
out on our Road Trip once again. Leaving Kumamoto behind, we drive into 
the rolling hills of Fukuoka Prefecture, where the landscape begins to change. Here, in the town of Yame, spreads one of 
Japan’s most famous tea-growing regions, the Yame Central Tea Plantation. The rolling hills here are blanketed with 
endless rows of neatly trimmed tea bushes, producing high-quality green tea known 
for its rich aroma and deep flavour. Within the plantation is a very 
nice cafe, called Green Monster. Here, visitors can enjoy tea tastings, 
walk the plantation grounds, and learn about the craft of tea making that 
has been passed down for generations. We have some nice matcha cakes and our 
milk green tea for a light breakfast. With the fragrance of tea still in the air, we leave Kumamoto behind and 
continue our Kyushu road trip. Our next destination, Nagasaki.

Hi everyone,
In the last couple of episodes, Lilian and I began our Kyushu road trip in Fukuoka, soaked in the hot springs of Beppu, and wandered the charming streets of Yufuin.

In this episode, we journey into the land of fire and samurai – Kumamoto. 🔥⚔️
This region is home to Japan’s largest active volcano, sweeping grasslands, and one of the country’s most iconic castles.

We explore the dramatic landscapes of Aso-Kuju National Park, including Kusasenri’s endless meadows, the towering peaks around Mount Aso, and the caldera towns that thrive under the shadow of the volcano. After a day of fresh mountain air, we return to Kumamoto City for a wagyu buffet feast.

The next morning, we visit the legendary Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s three great castles. Here we uncover stories of its brilliant architect Katō Kiyomasa, the resilience of the fortress during the Satsuma Rebellion, and the cultural legacy of the Hosokawa clan. From the mighty castle grounds, we step into the Edo-inspired world of Sakura-no-Baba Josaien, where food, culture, and history come alive.

Our adventure continues to the mystical Takachiho Gorge, with its soaring basalt cliffs, emerald waters, and the graceful Manai Falls—set against the backdrop of Japan’s ancient creation myths.

Back in Kumamoto, we end the night with a taste of local nightlife at Nishiginza Street, before closing this leg of our journey with a tranquil stop at the Yame Central Tea Plantation, where rolling fields of tea stretch across the hills.

From volcanoes to castles, legends to tea traditions, Kumamoto is a place where nature, history, and culture blend seamlessly.
⸻
📍 Highlights in this episode: 0:00
• Mount Aso & Kusasenri Grasslands 01:36
• Wagyu Buffet in Kumamoto City 03:57
• Kumamoto Castle & the Great Ginkgo Tree 04:52
• Sakura-no-Baba Josaien Cultural Village 08:20
• Takachiho Gorge & Japanese mythology 09:53
• Nishiginza Street izakaya nightlife 13:08
• Yame Central Tea Plantation & tea tasting 14:37
⸻
💡 If you’re planning a trip to Kyushu, don’t miss Kumamoto—where fiery landscapes meet samurai heritage.

Loads of love
Gilbert & Lilian
@gibbontravelogue

👉 Subscribe to follow the rest of our Kyushu road trip series as we head next to Nagasaki!

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