Skiing in Japan – What’s It Really Like?

13th March 2025

Last modified on May 28th, 2025

PlanetSKI’s final post from Japan comes not from the slopes & the powder, but the fairways & the greens. We reflect on our five weeks of skiing across Japan from a golf course at the base of Mt Fuji as we separate the myths from the realities.

James Cove and the PlanetSKI team have been in Japan for well over a month ( 5 weeks and 3 days to be precise) – skiing five resorts in the Hakuba Valley on the main island of Honchu, and nine ski areas on the northern island of Hokkaido.

They’ve also spent three intense days in Tokyo, visited numerous temples, castles & shrines and ventured off the more normal tourist routes.

PlanetSKI has experienced Japanese horse racing, bird-watching, ice sculture, Japanese drumming, onsens and much else besides the skiing.

And now it’s golf at the base of Mt Fuji.

If we have one bit of advice for people going to ski in Japan, it is do more than just ski – throw yourself into the experience of visiting one of the most fascinating countries in the world.

Here James Cove reflects on the Japanese adventures of PlanetSKI.

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hakuba Valley, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

There is perhaps no better way to draw things to a close than a round of golf at the Taiheiyo Club as I look back on the experience of skiing in Japan – the good points and the less good points.

I’m on the first tee with my 24-year old son Max who has been out here for part of the trip taking part in the PlanetSKI gear and equipment tests that we’ll be posting ahead of next season.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

“Japan has been an absolute eye-opener for me and like no-where I have ever skied,” said Max.

“On the first day in Happo One in the Hakuba Valley I questioned why I had flown so far as the resort was small, the slopes not so challenging and I was rather under-whelmed to be honest.

“Then over the next few days I had the best powder skiing I have ever had, and I wonder if I will ever see such snow again.”

More of the skiing and the snow later.

First the golf.

You know that feeling in a ski resort when you throw open the curtains and see a blue sky powder day beckoning?

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Good morning, Mt Fuji and a round of golf.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Golf, like most things in Japan, is familiar and yet so, so different.

You tee off by selecting one of these – the one with the shortest mark goes first.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Buggies are the norm, though they are the size of a small car.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And they drive themselves.

Pardon?

If a call of nature beckons there is no need to head to the trees as there are some very civilised facilities at many of the holes.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Going to the toilet is a serious business in Japan with its extraordinary loos – the seats are heated, spray and water is offered (at differing levels), and some even play music.

Who knew you need a control panel to operate a toilet?

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

For our game of  golf Japan’s most famous mountain is a backdrop, lunch is included in the round and it all finishes with an onsen.

As I said, golf is familiar but so very different.

As is the skiing.

As we played the course thoughts of skiing kept popping into our minds.

Japan had delivered beyond my expectations and then much more, but it is also a country of contradictions.

THE SNOW

Basically it snows here – sometimes it feels like all the time.

So far this winter some resorts have seen over 7m.

It doesn’t so much come in one huge storm, but rather it just keeps on snowing – in my experience pretty much on a daily basis.

It is relentless.

Think of a long drizzly day of rain in the UK – in Japan replace that rain with light, dry powder snow.

So, why does Japan receive so much snow?

It benefits from some very cold air masses travelling from the Yakutsk region of eastern Siberia in Russia to the west – they suck up moisture as they pass over the Sea of Japan.

This then collides with moisture laden air from the North Pacific coming form the east.

The two air masses collide over the mountains of Japan & then…JaPow!

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

In and away from the ski resorts.

Happo One, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

But it should also be pointed out that the snow means clouds and inclement weather for much of the time, so don’t expect too many, if any, sunny lunches sitting on a restaurant balcony.

Or cruising down a wide marked run in the sunshine.

SKIING & THE RESORTS

In fact many of the on piste runs are not wide or challenging, and there are few of them as Max commented.

Resorts in Japan are very small by the standards of the Alps with antiquated lifts and some long queues.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Though the old lifts make for some stunning images and are such fun to ride..

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Very few of the runs are steep as the skiing is generally on hills, rather than mountains.

Most of the red runs here, would be easy blues in Europe.

The shape of the slopes, plus the length of runs reminded me of Norway – not the most challenging skiing, but interesting all the same.

In short Japan is for Europeans who like powder snow, not for people that prefer to stick to the pistes.

It is a long way to come if you don’t ski powder.

But if powder is your thing then Japan is 100% the place to come.

Once you get to Japan the general costs are a fraction of the prices now charged in the Alps, helped in part by the favourable exchange rate.

A daily lift pass is around £25 and you can  buy them by the hour in some areas.

Ski hire and lessons are also good value.

THE JAPANESE CUISINE

The food is off the scale – as you long as you like Asian food and can get by with chopsticks.

It is superb in taste and freshness, and comes in at a very good price.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

A decent meal for two, with drinks is about £20.

However much as I love Japanese food, after five weeks my taste buds wanted something more western, and definitely less salty.

The option of cooked fished would have be nice rather than sushi all the time,  and boy did I crave for the simplicity of a fork.

When it came at a Japanese/Italian restaurant in Sapporo it was very welcome.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

In many restaurants you order you food at a machine.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And it sometimes gets delivered by one too.

And talking of food, when you play golf in Japan lunch is included at many courses.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Where there is also some interesting sports fashion on display.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

As on the slopes.

Hakuba 47, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

TEMPLES, CASTLES & SHRINES

Away from the slopes is also where Japan really comes into its own – the temples, the shrines and the culture.

Matsumoto, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Natadera Temple. Image © PlanetSKI

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Sapporo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Mt Fuji, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

THE WACKY WORLD OF JAPAN

In Japan wacky and random experiences happen on a daily basis.

There is a surprise round every corner – from derelict fun fares on the slopes, through to automatic and vertical car parks, and carousels inside hotel foyers.

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Kushiro, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Rusutsu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Then there are some of the ski hotels.

Tomamu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Then there are the signs you come across in restaurants (in English), that leave no room for interpretation.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Most of the menu’s are decipherable with the help of the pictures.

Hakuba Vallley, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI

But not all.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

And lets not forget the onsens.

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Skiing in Japan is as much about these other aspects, plus the manners, the politeness, the fun with the language and the endless bowing.

It is quite simply a unique experience.

The bowing was in evidence on the golf course as our automatic buggy handed itself in.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Overall though it is the skiing I will remember Japan for – like everything else it can be off the scale and so different to the European experience.

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hakuba 47, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Happo One, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

The Hakuba Valley, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Rusutsu, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Furano, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

GETTING AROUND

If you wish to ski the main island of Honchu and the northern island of Hokkaido you will need to either fly or get the Shinkansen, bullet train.

It is an hour and a half to fly or 8-hours or so by train – once you factor in the the hours of waiting around in airports and the fact they are out of town the train is our preferred option.

It is though more expensive, but can be used in conjunction with a special season ticket bought in your country of origin.

Once in a ski area you can either use public transport, hotel transport or hire a car in order to visit the different resorts.

For us hiring a car was the best option as it allowed us the freedom to visit any resort as the mood took us.

There was not problem driving on the snowy roads as we had winter tyres and 4-wheel drive.

They drive on the left in Japan, but be warned the red lights are at the far end of junctions, so if you stop at the red light you have already crossed the junction.

Three weeks car hire on Hokkaido, where we explored much of the southern and central part of the island, cost us around £25 per day + tolls and petrol.

Talking of costs the round of golf including  the buggy, lunch, drinks, an onsen, six balls, a bag of tees and two commemorative hats was £110 per person.

It was a fabulous course too.

It would have been double or three times that price in Europe.

And in case you are a golfer and wondering about the result, Max was one up as we reached the 18th green.

He lobbed it into the water so the match was drawn.

All-square seemed a fair result and a good way to end our time together in Japan.

And so PlanetSKI’s 5-week Japanese adventure draws to its end at the foot of Mt Fuji.

PlanetSKI’s adventures in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Not much is certain in life, but one thing is.

PlanetSKI will be back in Japan.

There is so much more to enjoy, experience and discover.

On and off the slopes.

Hakuba Valley, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI’s rolling posts from Japan:

We have posted thousands of words with hundreds of pictures and videos over the past five weeks – all done in live rolling blogs on the web site and across our social media channels.

They were posted to be read in real time, so may be date sensitive, but we re-produce them below should  you want to find out more detail about the PlanetSKI experience of skiing and traveling in Japan:

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

PlanetSKI in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Happo One, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Natadera Temple. Image © PlanetSKI

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Tokyo, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Obihuro, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Kushiro, Hokkaido, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Warren Smith in Furano, Japan. Image c/o Melody Sky.

Warren and James in Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Hokkaido, Japan. Image c/o PlanetSKI.

The Hakuba Valley, Japan. Image © PlanetSKI

Visiting Japan

A handful of UK operators offer ski holidays to Japan.

One is Ski Safari that has perhaps the most experience of the country with tailored packages built on the company’s extensive knowledge and experience.

“Japan is unlike any other country you’ve skied in or been to before,” said Andy Knights from Ski Safari.

“The skiing alone is world class, with the Siberian weather systems bringing huge amounts of light dry powder – it’s not called Ja-Pow for nothing.”

Ski Safari offers the following six resorts:

Niseko – Japan’s largest and best-known ski resort, the quality and quantity of snow here is unparalleled – for powder, it doesn’t get much better than a Niseko ski holiday

Hakuba – Hakuba ski holidays are blessed with alpine-like terrain and huge variety. Hakuba is a great place to use as a base for exploring multiple resorts on one lift pass.

Rusutsu – A quirky, powder-filled paradise, Rusutsu ski holidays are great on their own or as part of a longer trip in Hokkaido.

Nozawa Onsen – Japan’s oldest ski resort, Nozawa Onsen ski holidays are as famous for onsens as they are for skiing – perfect for a ski trip with added culture.

Kiroro – Relatively under-the-radar, Kiroro ski holidays feature deep powder, quiet slopes and fantastic tree runs off-piste.

Furano -Choose a Furano ski holiday for a traditional resort in an idyllic setting and top notch piste skiing. A good value option, Furano is a thriving town in its own right.

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