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By Diana Fletcher, International Banker
Tourists dreaming of a magical place to spend their autumn holidays with falling leaves as vivid as the most eye-catching kimono should look no further than Kyoto, Japan. Few places on Earth can match the alluring combination of natural beauty, cultural wealth, historical value and sightseeing opportunities of this city of contrasts, where the ancient and modern coexist.
The centrepiece of Honshu (the country’s largest island), Kyoto is nestled in the Yamashiro Basin, surrounded on three sides by mountains. As summer transitions to fall in October, Kyoto’s mountainsides burst into vibrant shades of scarlet and gold foliage, koyo, creating picturesque landscapes that perfectly complement explorations of the ancient city’s treasure chest of must-see places, including 17 UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Sites.
The city encompasses an abundant supply of accommodations, but to elevate the authenticity of their visits, well-heeled tourists often select a top-rated ryokan: Japan’s signature inn. Kyoto is known for its high-end ryokans, having been the preferred vacation spot of the Imperial Family over the centuries. Weary travellers can savour a meticulously prepared kaiseki (a multi-course meal that showcases the particular season’s freshest locally sourced ingredients) and enjoy a rejuvenating onsen (hot springs) bath before sinking into a plush futon, surrounded by intricately designed tatami mats arranged behind sliding doors leading to a garden illuminated by lanterns.
Many ryokans are small and intimate, with comparatively few guestrooms. Let’s visit four acclaimed ryokans that are sure to delight even the most selective traveller.
Tawaraya, Aneko-ji Agaru, Fuya-cho Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku
Tawaraya, located in the heart of the city, is Kyoto’s oldest ryokan with a long list of accolades. In its 300-plus-year history, it has hosted Japanese aristocrats and, more recently, Western luminaries. By hotel standards, this inn is small, with just 18 rooms spread over three floors, each sporting its own wooden plaque. The tsubo-niwa(small garden) in the centre of the lobby is a preview of the gardens awaiting guests once they reach their rooms. Each room is decorated to accentuate the wabi-sabi (simplicity, austerity) aesthetic, with the red-lacquered zataku (low table) as the focal point, along with a tokonoma (alcove) for displaying relevant art objects.
Indulging in a kaiseki dinner is an experience in itself. Often served in guests’ rooms, it comprises up to 14 servings of fresh seasonal foods arranged aesthetically on ceramic dinnerware. Guests should be prepared to enjoy culinary delights that they would be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the seafood and shellfish line, accompanied by vegetables, steamed rice, seeds and nuts, miso soup and pickles, all enhanced by plum wine or rice sake. After absorbing their meals, which can last a couple of hours or more, they can rejuvenate in refreshing onsen baths in their wooden bathtubs.
Tawaraya, committed to maintaining the traditional Japanese mode of living and located in the heart of Kyoto, is ideal for those seeking to experience the ageless beauty of traditional Japan. The city was the seat of Japan’s government from 794 A.D. until 1869 A.D. and is regarded as one of Asia’s most precious cultural centres, overflowing with exquisite gardens strategically placed alongside historical buildings. Although turmoil beset it throughout the centuries, it escaped during World War II—thus, tourists can today experience the Japan of antiquity in the midst of this modern metropolis.
Visitors whose Kyoto stays incorporate October 22 can participate in one of the city’s three main annual festivals, the Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages), featuring a two-hour parade extending from the Imperial Palace to the Heian Shrine, with approximately 2,000 participants dressed in costumes representing Japan’s lengthy history.
Hiiragiya, Nakahakusancho, Anekoji-agaru, Fuyacho Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku
Hiiragiya (House of Holly), established in 1818, is another inn in the same vicinity that defines the traditional ryokan. The two-story main building, featuring 17 rooms, is constructed in the sukiya-zukuri (teahouse) architectural style, while the newer wing is endowed with seven elegant Japanese-style rooms. The inn specialises in preserving centuries-old customs, with each guestroom amply furnished with tatami mats and designed with its own special motif, including byōbu (painted folding screens), hand-carved transoms and lacquered or tiled bathrooms with cypress-wood tubs. Hiiragiya claims that its gourd-shaped boxes, enclosing remote controls, symbolise its wish to serve the needs of the present while respecting the aesthetics of the past. The holly leaf is evident throughout, which the owners hope will bring their guests good luck.
This ryokan is situated in the same district as some of the city’s most popular sightseeing spots, including the Kyoto Art Center, the Kyoto International Manga Museum, the Museum of Kyoto, Nishiki Market, Pontocho and Nijō Castle.
Seikoro Inn, Nishitachibana-cho, Tonyamachi-dori Kyoto-shi, Higashiyama-ku
Seikoro, in southern Higashiyama-ku on the Kamo River, is another well-established luxury ryokan, opened in 1831. Although still traditional, its atmosphere is not as austere, particularly in its common rooms, which combine modern comforts with impressive collections of antiques and paintings. Its 22 guestrooms fall into four different types, from luxury to family, catering to different tastes. Tired guests can relax in their private baths or the inn’s communal bath.
North of Seikoro is the historic Gion district, where tourists can enjoy traditional Japanese dance performances and wander narrow streets lined with wooden machiya (townhouses) offering ochaya (teahouses), shops and eateries.
Kyoto is well endowed with public transportation, so regardless of where they stay, visitors will be able to navigate the city and tour its must-see destinations, assuming they stay long enough. In addition to the seemingly endless temples, shrines and gardens, travellers can explore the district’s museums, including the Kodaiji Sho Museum and the Kyoto National Museum.
Hoshinoya Kyoto, Arashiyama, Genrokuzan-cho, Nishikyo-ku
In the western Arashiyama district, Hoshinoya Kyoto, with its 25 rooms arranged so they overlook the Ōi/Katsura River, is one of Kyoto’s most picturesque ryokans. After travelling by boat to reach the inn, guests will be enchanted by the staff’s omotenashi (hospitality) and their rooms’ views of the river, dotted with pole-propelled boats along with stunning views of autumn colours in the fall and sakura (cherry blossoms) in the spring. This inn excels in roomy futons, high-class bench sofas and kyo-karakami (printed wallpaper) on fusuma (partitions). Guests can visit the Water Garden and the Inner Garden, both providing sublime experiences. In the fall, nodate (outdoor tea ceremonies) are performed underneath ancient maple trees. Guests can also reserve Hoshinoya’s exclusive boat to explore the area.
This ryokan is located near popular destinations such as the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and the Monkey Park Iwatayama, the latter offering opportunities to visit native macaques. The Sagano Scenic Railway winds through the Hozugawa River Valley from Arashiyama to Kameoka—an immersive plunge into magnificent autumn foliage.
Conclusion
We’ve only scratched the surface of Kyoto’s sightseeing destinations and accommodations. Booking a room in an exclusive ryokan can be more challenging than paying the room rate—usually based per person, not by room. Making a reservation online may not be an option, so be prepared to pick up the phone, send an email or contact a travel agency. Because the demand is high for the few rooms these comparatively small inns offer, it is wise to start early if you want to enjoy a ryokan experience in Kyoto this autumn.
AloJapan.com